to soon for oil change?
Jul 9, 2009, 01:36 PM
#31
break-in period is 600 miles actually, according to manual.
that only means, you can start ragging on the car after 600 miles. Has nothing to do with the engines actual break-in period.
It takes much more than 600 miles to fully break the motor in.
The first 600 are just the recommended miles to be "easy" on the car.
that only means, you can start ragging on the car after 600 miles. Has nothing to do with the engines actual break-in period.
It takes much more than 600 miles to fully break the motor in.
The first 600 are just the recommended miles to be "easy" on the car.
If you can start ragging on a car after 600 miles, then that means things have had a chance to "seat". Would I change the oil in a new car right at 600 miles? No, but I hardly think it's going to hurt it. Like I said, I did mine at 1231 miles and I feel that is plenty of time to break the motor in fully.
Jul 9, 2009, 01:44 PM
#32
Most automakers recommend driving at varying speeds and acceleration rates and say you shouldn’t tow anything until you’re past the break-in period. Here’s an example of a break-in recommendation on the 2008 Chrysler Town & Country:
“A long break-in period is not required for the engine in your vehicle.
“Drive moderately during the first 300 mi (500 km). After the initial 60 mi (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
“While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration, within the limits of local traffic laws, contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.”
http://ask.cars.com/2007/10/engine-break-in.html
For break in, follow this link: This guy is the best engine builder I have ever heard of/seen etc...and he KNOWS Hondas...follow his directions and you cannot go wrong. Everything on this site is good information. Use it as a great resource and search before you ask questions. Click
Here is what TOO has to say for those of you that don't want to follow the link:
"Use 0-30, or 5-30, or 10-30 motor oil and a Honda filter. Do NOT use synthetic motor oil for break in. Make sure the fluid levels are where they should be. Start it up and keep the engine at 2500 -3000 rpm for about 20 minutes. Make sure there are no leaks, or mechanical problems. The only idling will be for setting the timing.
Before doing the schedule, remember that running the engine at steady rpm (like cruising on the freeway) is not good for break-in.
0-200 miles. Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.
200-400 miles. Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.
400-600 miles. Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.
600-800 miles. 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.
800-1K miles. 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.
Now, don't misunderstand me on the zings. You don't HAVE to scream the engine religiously at the prescribed intervals. If you don't have the space to run the engine up in the selected gears, don't do it. Just know that you can, and IF the opportunity comes around lay into it. Don't over-do the procedure.
I recommend that the oil be changed at the 1K mile marker. If the plugs are looking good and if the compression's (and leak down numbers) good, switch to Mobil 1 for life. Use either 0-30, or 10-30. After the oil change, you might want to reset the valves and from that point on, drive it the way you'd normally run it." - T.O.O.
http://www.g1teg.org/howto/enginebreakin.html
“A long break-in period is not required for the engine in your vehicle.
“Drive moderately during the first 300 mi (500 km). After the initial 60 mi (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
“While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration, within the limits of local traffic laws, contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.”
http://ask.cars.com/2007/10/engine-break-in.html
For break in, follow this link: This guy is the best engine builder I have ever heard of/seen etc...and he KNOWS Hondas...follow his directions and you cannot go wrong. Everything on this site is good information. Use it as a great resource and search before you ask questions. Click
Here is what TOO has to say for those of you that don't want to follow the link:
"Use 0-30, or 5-30, or 10-30 motor oil and a Honda filter. Do NOT use synthetic motor oil for break in. Make sure the fluid levels are where they should be. Start it up and keep the engine at 2500 -3000 rpm for about 20 minutes. Make sure there are no leaks, or mechanical problems. The only idling will be for setting the timing.
Before doing the schedule, remember that running the engine at steady rpm (like cruising on the freeway) is not good for break-in.
0-200 miles. Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.
200-400 miles. Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.
400-600 miles. Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.
600-800 miles. 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.
800-1K miles. 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.
Now, don't misunderstand me on the zings. You don't HAVE to scream the engine religiously at the prescribed intervals. If you don't have the space to run the engine up in the selected gears, don't do it. Just know that you can, and IF the opportunity comes around lay into it. Don't over-do the procedure.
I recommend that the oil be changed at the 1K mile marker. If the plugs are looking good and if the compression's (and leak down numbers) good, switch to Mobil 1 for life. Use either 0-30, or 10-30. After the oil change, you might want to reset the valves and from that point on, drive it the way you'd normally run it." - T.O.O.
http://www.g1teg.org/howto/enginebreakin.html
Jul 14, 2009, 01:54 PM
#34
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i just checked my odometer and i already have 1800 miles lol. after a month. i think im going to change the oil this weekend 
i love oil changes
i love oil changes
Jul 16, 2009, 11:05 AM
#37
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First oil change, I did it a week after I got my X.
After the "test drive" more like a "track race" that the sales guy made with me to sale me the evo.
My recommendation: change the oil as soon your pocket can!
And take a clutch specialist to before buy the car, a few guys provably launching your car testing it before you buy it.
it happens to my girlfriend she got a brand new mini s manual T with clutch almost gone. 8 miles use. Looks like they pick that one to have fun at the dealer. They agree and change it for free.
After the "test drive" more like a "track race" that the sales guy made with me to sale me the evo.
My recommendation: change the oil as soon your pocket can!
And take a clutch specialist to before buy the car, a few guys provably launching your car testing it before you buy it.
it happens to my girlfriend she got a brand new mini s manual T with clutch almost gone. 8 miles use. Looks like they pick that one to have fun at the dealer. They agree and change it for free.
Jul 16, 2009, 11:22 AM
#38
Evolving Member
When I bought my car I changed the oil and filter at 20, 50, 100, 500, 1000 and then every 3000 from then out. When you change the oil on a new engine you will often see a silver, shiny, moon colored surface on top of the oil. That is small pieces of metal from the rings and cyclinder walls. Much after 50 miles you won't see the discoloration anymore.
P.S. you should use non-synthetic, regular old dino oil until 3000 miles.
P.S. you should use non-synthetic, regular old dino oil until 3000 miles.
Jul 16, 2009, 01:10 PM
#39
when i bought my car i changed the oil and filter at 20, 50, 100, 500, 1000 and then every 3000 from then out. When you change the oil on a new engine you will often see a silver, shiny, moon colored surface on top of the oil. That is small pieces of metal from the rings and cyclinder walls. Much after 50 miles you won't see the discoloration anymore.
P.s. You should use non-synthetic, regular old dino oil until 3000 miles.
P.s. You should use non-synthetic, regular old dino oil until 3000 miles.
Jul 16, 2009, 01:42 PM
#40
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There certainly are companies who put a break-in oil in the engine from the factory, but I'd not seen any such documentation from MMNA. Do you have anything to back this up? (Typically you would see a note to the effect in the owners manual that the oil should not be changed until x miles...)
Jul 16, 2009, 01:45 PM
#41
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There certainly are companies who put a break-in oil in the engine from the factory, but I'd not seen any such documentation from MMNA. Do you have anything to back this up? (Typically you would see a note to the effect in the owners manual that the oil should not be changed until x miles...)
Jul 17, 2009, 11:29 AM
#43
he pulls it out of his a@@ because he really doesn't know ANYTHING about cars.. but likes to pretend he does. Sorry for coming off so hostile, but I cannot stand someone who just makes stupid statements like the ones he has in this thread which is why I called him out on it and he never responded.
Aug 10, 2009, 01:27 AM
#44
When I bought my car I changed the oil and filter at 20, 50, 100, 500, 1000 and then every 3000 from then out. When you change the oil on a new engine you will often see a silver, shiny, moon colored surface on top of the oil. That is small pieces of metal from the rings and cyclinder walls. Much after 50 miles you won't see the discoloration anymore.
P.S. you should use non-synthetic, regular old dino oil until 3000 miles.
P.S. you should use non-synthetic, regular old dino oil until 3000 miles.
The manual says to ONLY put synthetic oil in and NOTHING else.
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