Travis959

iTrader: (1)

Pictures!

tehSteve

iTrader: (4)

Redo that coupler man. I'm pretty sure that the outer ring from the pipe in the back needs to be covered. The clamp looks a little half assed too lol.
Push the intake deeper into the coupler also. It was annoying and hard for me too. Use some grease or something. I used wd40 to help it slide into the coupler, although I suppose warm water would help out too.

dcpatters

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, that looks like poop. Doesn't appear to be sealed at the turbo inlet.

Travis959

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, thats what I thought, but that's the best we could get it to fit at the time. We tried probably about 10 different times to get it correctly on there, but I was thinking that is probably a cause of the problem which is why I took a picture of it.

I'll see if I can get my mechanic to reposition it correctly tomorrow after he puts my snow tires on. Hope he doesn't charge me an arm and a leg to do that.

dcpatters

iTrader: (8)

That's a piece of cake. Take it all off and start with the turbo inlet. Position it in place and secure the clamp. You can use two hands, left from the top and right from just under the silicon tube, enough to hold the clamp in place whilst tightening. If a mechanic did that, get your money back, then find a new one.

ETS Michael

iTrader: (91)

It's sucking in un-metered air the way it's installed. You just need to reposition the coupler and it will be good to go.

Thanks,

Michael

Travis959

iTrader: (1)

Alright thanks guys, I couldn't find any pictures of that area so I wasn't sure if I was supposed to cover the ring or supposed to sit flush to it. About to take it to the shop to see if they can even bother with it today.

dcpatters

iTrader: (8)

Alternatively, ask if someone local can help. If the car is cool, you're talking about 10 minutes. Good luck.

Travis959

iTrader: (1)

So the mechanic looked at it and tightened it up and stuff, but I'm still having the same problem.

At first I think it was quieter after he tightened it up, but I'm not entirely sure, and I didn't have the problem until when I almost got home. Is it possible it popped back off somehow?

Here's the updated picture:

tehSteve

iTrader: (4)

Did you experience the struggling / about to die feeling again? Or did you just hear the intake get louder? The ETS intake is very loud on the spool and blow off which is why they are the best

Travis959

iTrader: (1)

Both, I tried to redo the whole thing today, but I couldn't even loosen the clamp with a screwdriver that is on the turbo inlet so I'm not sure how it could have popped off if it did.

I'm really at a loss here.

ETS Michael

iTrader: (91)

Can you upload a new pic, so we can check it out.

LiQuIdCrAzN

iTrader: (3)

You don't need to tune, but its best if you do, just like any mod... Changing out your intake to an open filter causes your fuel trims to go haywire because you're changing where the MAF is reading the air from. I ran my intake for 4 months before my tune, waiting on parts, and my Tuner basically said it was about to throw a code because the fuel trims were being max'd out (or something of that nature). You will probably suffer at most worse MPG's if you run an open element intake without a tune.

Travis959

iTrader: (1)

These two pictures are from under the intake and were hard to get, but here they are.

Could the problem be from the fact it's not completely covering the lip on the bottom? I heard one guy mention the coupler had to cover the lip of the turbo inlet but no one has confirmed otherwise - it's covering it from the top part from what I could tell.

The mechanic said that was as far as he could get it to go, but I'll just take it to another mechanic if it still isn't installed right.

Thanks for all the help by the way.

Jookies

haha, your tellin me. Have a cobb intake on with no tune, MPG went down noticeably. Though with my intake none of this bogging or stuttering happen, and have had it on for like a month and a half with no codes thrown.