Unsprung weight vs. sprung weight reduction ratio
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Unsprung weight vs. sprung weight reduction ratio
Trying to get a sense of what a 1 lb reduction in unsprung weight would be equal to in terms of sprung weight. I know there are nuances between rotational and non-rotational unsprung weight, so let's assume at 60 mph for any physics majors out there
Ultimately trying to figure out what is a better deal per $ in weight reduction, lightweight wheels or lighter parts (carbon fiber trunk, maybe wing, etc.).
Thanks!
Ultimately trying to figure out what is a better deal per $ in weight reduction, lightweight wheels or lighter parts (carbon fiber trunk, maybe wing, etc.).
Thanks!
Last edited by Chang_Wufei_05; Nov 29, 2010 at 11:56 AM.
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you really have 3 different classifications of weight.
sprung weight
unsprung weight
rotational weight
sprung weight is anything that is on the car that is carried by the shocks/springs. so trunk, seats, engine, etc...
unsprung weight is everything that touches the road before the springs. so wheels, brake rotors and calipers, hubs, and half of the shock itself.
rotational weight is the stuff that rotates. here there is a bit of a mix between sprung and unsprung weight. your driveshaft is rotational weight, but it is also sprung. your wheels are rotational and unsprung.
ideally, your suspension will work best with the least amount of unsprung weight (quicker response, less inertia), so better handling. your car will accelerate best with the least amount of rotational weight. so wheels, brake rotors, drive shafts, light weight clutch, etc. reducing sprung weight helps everything, but not quite to the effect that the other two will.
so if you look at it that way, taking rotating, unsprung weight off the car will help the most. wheels, brake rotors, lug nuts, tires. there is no set number like a lot of people pass around like "1lb of rotating mass is like 5lbs of regular mass". thats just not easily quantifiable because if you take a pound out of a tire, its going to have a much bigger effect then taking a pound out of a driveshaft. the reason is the tire has a much higher moment of inertia then the axle does.
sprung weight
unsprung weight
rotational weight
sprung weight is anything that is on the car that is carried by the shocks/springs. so trunk, seats, engine, etc...
unsprung weight is everything that touches the road before the springs. so wheels, brake rotors and calipers, hubs, and half of the shock itself.
rotational weight is the stuff that rotates. here there is a bit of a mix between sprung and unsprung weight. your driveshaft is rotational weight, but it is also sprung. your wheels are rotational and unsprung.
ideally, your suspension will work best with the least amount of unsprung weight (quicker response, less inertia), so better handling. your car will accelerate best with the least amount of rotational weight. so wheels, brake rotors, drive shafts, light weight clutch, etc. reducing sprung weight helps everything, but not quite to the effect that the other two will.
so if you look at it that way, taking rotating, unsprung weight off the car will help the most. wheels, brake rotors, lug nuts, tires. there is no set number like a lot of people pass around like "1lb of rotating mass is like 5lbs of regular mass". thats just not easily quantifiable because if you take a pound out of a tire, its going to have a much bigger effect then taking a pound out of a driveshaft. the reason is the tire has a much higher moment of inertia then the axle does.
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you really have 3 different classifications of weight.
sprung weight
unsprung weight
rotational weight
sprung weight is anything that is on the car that is carried by the shocks/springs. so trunk, seats, engine, etc...
unsprung weight is everything that touches the road before the springs. so wheels, brake rotors and calipers, hubs, and half of the shock itself.
rotational weight is the stuff that rotates. here there is a bit of a mix between sprung and unsprung weight. your driveshaft is rotational weight, but it is also sprung. your wheels are rotational and unsprung.
ideally, your suspension will work best with the least amount of unsprung weight (quicker response, less inertia), so better handling. your car will accelerate best with the least amount of rotational weight. so wheels, brake rotors, drive shafts, light weight clutch, etc. reducing sprung weight helps everything, but not quite to the effect that the other two will.
so if you look at it that way, taking rotating, unsprung weight off the car will help the most. wheels, brake rotors, lug nuts, tires. there is no set number like a lot of people pass around like "1lb of rotating mass is like 5lbs of regular mass". thats just not easily quantifiable because if you take a pound out of a tire, its going to have a much bigger effect then taking a pound out of a driveshaft. the reason is the tire has a much higher moment of inertia then the axle does.
sprung weight
unsprung weight
rotational weight
sprung weight is anything that is on the car that is carried by the shocks/springs. so trunk, seats, engine, etc...
unsprung weight is everything that touches the road before the springs. so wheels, brake rotors and calipers, hubs, and half of the shock itself.
rotational weight is the stuff that rotates. here there is a bit of a mix between sprung and unsprung weight. your driveshaft is rotational weight, but it is also sprung. your wheels are rotational and unsprung.
ideally, your suspension will work best with the least amount of unsprung weight (quicker response, less inertia), so better handling. your car will accelerate best with the least amount of rotational weight. so wheels, brake rotors, drive shafts, light weight clutch, etc. reducing sprung weight helps everything, but not quite to the effect that the other two will.
so if you look at it that way, taking rotating, unsprung weight off the car will help the most. wheels, brake rotors, lug nuts, tires. there is no set number like a lot of people pass around like "1lb of rotating mass is like 5lbs of regular mass". thats just not easily quantifiable because if you take a pound out of a tire, its going to have a much bigger effect then taking a pound out of a driveshaft. the reason is the tire has a much higher moment of inertia then the axle does.
You might think more about what you want the car to do better... hold more grip? accellerate/decelerate more quickly?... go around the mall sounding awesome? etc. If you think in terms of what outcomes/results you really want, experts and tuning shops will be able to help you pick a decent modification path that you can afford.
Last edited by supergengo; Nov 29, 2010 at 04:37 PM.
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Thanks for the great info guys! Understand the complexities of what I'm asking, that's why I said rough estimate (80/20) haha. For ex, wheelweights.net says
Not trying to distill it to a full equation of $/lbs reduced. Just to get a sense of whether Volk/SSR wheels are worth it, for ex.
Also, because I have an MR Touring, I max out power after intake, exhaust & tune so then gotta goto weight reduction.
PS you forgot partially sprung weight (control arms)
The general rule of thumb is that for every pound of weight that you add in wheel/tire combo, it’s equivalent to adding 2x that amount of weight anywhere else in the car. This only applies to straight line accelerating and braking.
Also, because I have an MR Touring, I max out power after intake, exhaust & tune so then gotta goto weight reduction.
PS you forgot partially sprung weight (control arms)
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