Picking up 2010 EVO on SAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MODS??
Oct 28, 2011, 09:39 AM
#31
@#1cbr
I will tell you I don't work for a dealership or ever have. The info I threw up is just common sense sort of stuff. If you really want to know what will be okay, go directly to the service manager of a dealership you hope to do business with. Be honest and open with them, about your questions. However make it clear you haven't modded anything yet. They should know you just wanted to ask, so you wouldn't have to be in a position to be tempted to be dishonest should a warranty reason arise.
I will tell you, a Cobb Access Port *is* a tune. It is modifying the parameters of the cars ability to compensate fuel, timing, and its ability to verify run conditions with it's sensors (i.e. deleting codes that would show non-original run conditions). It's argued both ways that you could unmarry the AP and the dealer would or wouldn't know if it was tuned. Really though, its the ethics of it. If you flash an OTS map on your car, and you don't have a wideband a/f and you break something, would you feel good about unmarrying your AP, swapping your mods and just hoping the dealership doesn't look at your car feeling like they need to do some research why this could happen? You gotta pay to play. Evo's are expensive, they're not an entry level car for the performance market. They are high-tech and full of advanced technologies. I hate to say, but they are even expensive to go mod crazy (and pay for repairs if needed) if financially you're part of that upper 20% of the 99% (ok political jokes over)
You asked what I did to my 11 EvoX GSR. Nothing. It's as OEM as it could possibly be, except debadged. This is mostly because I'm paying for my wedding next February, and the $13k for all of that is a little more stressful than I would like, and I do plan to modify. Here's my plans:
32%/7% Tint - Done
RexSpeed A-pillar gauge pod - already purchased, sitting on my toolbox
---Stuff to get below this line in relative order--------------------------------------------------------
-Prosport or AEM digital boost gauge (still making up my mind, had both, liked the prosport look, but liked AEM quality)
-Prosport or AEM digital oil pressure gauge
-AEM Wideband
-Intake (I like the Akuma design, but I want to retain the intake snorkel and have a boxed separator so I'm thinking about the K&N. I like the box-to-snorkel look of the AP, but I don't like the use of the OE rubber hose to the turbo inlet. K&N also goes all the way to the hood when it's closed, which is good for separation of heat)
-Suspension - I want quality coilovers, but I'm not going to break my bank, because I'm not going to track the car
-Wheels Rota Grid 18x9.5 +20 in Gold. I had Volk RE30s on my STi, I'm cool with poser-wheels :-)
-Cat-Back. Still deciding, I hate the OE look, but I don't want drone at 75-80mph.
-U/LICPs
-ETS 4" FMIC in black (I live in Phx, at night it cools to 95-105F in summer, heat soak a big problem)
-I *might* do a high-flow cat, only if the local dealership agrees that it's okay and because I have a catalyst present, they won't see it as a federal issue. Of course it all depends on how my A/F ratios look
I desperately want a tune from a local tuner I like, but I'm not in a position to pay for repairs on this car yet, so until I can laugh at the warranty, I'm keeping it very basic.
Anyhow, that's my action plan. If anything happens and Mitsu takes my warranty away..I'm going for exhaust mani, turbo, DP, GS 3port, pump, injectors, E85 and just under 400whp until I can build a block, then going for 450ish as my daily driver.
I hope that helps ya
I will tell you I don't work for a dealership or ever have. The info I threw up is just common sense sort of stuff. If you really want to know what will be okay, go directly to the service manager of a dealership you hope to do business with. Be honest and open with them, about your questions. However make it clear you haven't modded anything yet. They should know you just wanted to ask, so you wouldn't have to be in a position to be tempted to be dishonest should a warranty reason arise.
I will tell you, a Cobb Access Port *is* a tune. It is modifying the parameters of the cars ability to compensate fuel, timing, and its ability to verify run conditions with it's sensors (i.e. deleting codes that would show non-original run conditions). It's argued both ways that you could unmarry the AP and the dealer would or wouldn't know if it was tuned. Really though, its the ethics of it. If you flash an OTS map on your car, and you don't have a wideband a/f and you break something, would you feel good about unmarrying your AP, swapping your mods and just hoping the dealership doesn't look at your car feeling like they need to do some research why this could happen? You gotta pay to play. Evo's are expensive, they're not an entry level car for the performance market. They are high-tech and full of advanced technologies. I hate to say, but they are even expensive to go mod crazy (and pay for repairs if needed) if financially you're part of that upper 20% of the 99% (ok political jokes over)
You asked what I did to my 11 EvoX GSR. Nothing. It's as OEM as it could possibly be, except debadged. This is mostly because I'm paying for my wedding next February, and the $13k for all of that is a little more stressful than I would like, and I do plan to modify. Here's my plans:
32%/7% Tint - Done
RexSpeed A-pillar gauge pod - already purchased, sitting on my toolbox
---Stuff to get below this line in relative order--------------------------------------------------------
-Prosport or AEM digital boost gauge (still making up my mind, had both, liked the prosport look, but liked AEM quality)
-Prosport or AEM digital oil pressure gauge
-AEM Wideband
-Intake (I like the Akuma design, but I want to retain the intake snorkel and have a boxed separator so I'm thinking about the K&N. I like the box-to-snorkel look of the AP, but I don't like the use of the OE rubber hose to the turbo inlet. K&N also goes all the way to the hood when it's closed, which is good for separation of heat)
-Suspension - I want quality coilovers, but I'm not going to break my bank, because I'm not going to track the car
-Wheels Rota Grid 18x9.5 +20 in Gold. I had Volk RE30s on my STi, I'm cool with poser-wheels :-)
-Cat-Back. Still deciding, I hate the OE look, but I don't want drone at 75-80mph.
-U/LICPs
-ETS 4" FMIC in black (I live in Phx, at night it cools to 95-105F in summer, heat soak a big problem)
-I *might* do a high-flow cat, only if the local dealership agrees that it's okay and because I have a catalyst present, they won't see it as a federal issue. Of course it all depends on how my A/F ratios look
I desperately want a tune from a local tuner I like, but I'm not in a position to pay for repairs on this car yet, so until I can laugh at the warranty, I'm keeping it very basic.
Anyhow, that's my action plan. If anything happens and Mitsu takes my warranty away..I'm going for exhaust mani, turbo, DP, GS 3port, pump, injectors, E85 and just under 400whp until I can build a block, then going for 450ish as my daily driver.
I hope that helps ya
Last edited by TheBlade; Oct 28, 2011 at 09:54 AM.
Oct 28, 2011, 12:53 PM
#32
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@#1cbr
I will tell you I don't work for a dealership or ever have. The info I threw up is just common sense sort of stuff. If you really want to know what will be okay, go directly to the service manager of a dealership you hope to do business with. Be honest and open with them, about your questions. However make it clear you haven't modded anything yet. They should know you just wanted to ask, so you wouldn't have to be in a position to be tempted to be dishonest should a warranty reason arise.
I will tell you, a Cobb Access Port *is* a tune. It is modifying the parameters of the cars ability to compensate fuel, timing, and its ability to verify run conditions with it's sensors (i.e. deleting codes that would show non-original run conditions). It's argued both ways that you could unmarry the AP and the dealer would or wouldn't know if it was tuned. Really though, its the ethics of it. If you flash an OTS map on your car, and you don't have a wideband a/f and you break something, would you feel good about unmarrying your AP, swapping your mods and just hoping the dealership doesn't look at your car feeling like they need to do some research why this could happen? You gotta pay to play. Evo's are expensive, they're not an entry level car for the performance market. They are high-tech and full of advanced technologies. I hate to say, but they are even expensive to go mod crazy (and pay for repairs if needed) if financially you're part of that upper 20% of the 99% (ok political jokes over)
You asked what I did to my 11 EvoX GSR. Nothing. It's as OEM as it could possibly be, except debadged. This is mostly because I'm paying for my wedding next February, and the $13k for all of that is a little more stressful than I would like, and I do plan to modify. Here's my plans:
32%/7% Tint - Done
RexSpeed A-pillar gauge pod - already purchased, sitting on my toolbox
---Stuff to get below this line in relative order--------------------------------------------------------
-Prosport or AEM digital boost gauge (still making up my mind, had both, liked the prosport look, but liked AEM quality)
-Prosport or AEM digital oil pressure gauge
-AEM Wideband
-Intake (I like the Akuma design, but I want to retain the intake snorkel and have a boxed separator so I'm thinking about the K&N. I like the box-to-snorkel look of the AP, but I don't like the use of the OE rubber hose to the turbo inlet. K&N also goes all the way to the hood when it's closed, which is good for separation of heat)
-Suspension - I want quality coilovers, but I'm not going to break my bank, because I'm not going to track the car
-Wheels Rota Grid 18x9.5 +20 in Gold. I had Volk RE30s on my STi, I'm cool with poser-wheels :-)
-Cat-Back. Still deciding, I hate the OE look, but I don't want drone at 75-80mph.
-U/LICPs
-ETS 4" FMIC in black (I live in Phx, at night it cools to 95-105F in summer, heat soak a big problem)
-I *might* do a high-flow cat, only if the local dealership agrees that it's okay and because I have a catalyst present, they won't see it as a federal issue. Of course it all depends on how my A/F ratios look
I desperately want a tune from a local tuner I like, but I'm not in a position to pay for repairs on this car yet, so until I can laugh at the warranty, I'm keeping it very basic.
Anyhow, that's my action plan. If anything happens and Mitsu takes my warranty away..I'm going for exhaust mani, turbo, DP, GS 3port, pump, injectors, E85 and just under 400whp until I can build a block, then going for 450ish as my daily driver.
I hope that helps ya
I will tell you I don't work for a dealership or ever have. The info I threw up is just common sense sort of stuff. If you really want to know what will be okay, go directly to the service manager of a dealership you hope to do business with. Be honest and open with them, about your questions. However make it clear you haven't modded anything yet. They should know you just wanted to ask, so you wouldn't have to be in a position to be tempted to be dishonest should a warranty reason arise.
I will tell you, a Cobb Access Port *is* a tune. It is modifying the parameters of the cars ability to compensate fuel, timing, and its ability to verify run conditions with it's sensors (i.e. deleting codes that would show non-original run conditions). It's argued both ways that you could unmarry the AP and the dealer would or wouldn't know if it was tuned. Really though, its the ethics of it. If you flash an OTS map on your car, and you don't have a wideband a/f and you break something, would you feel good about unmarrying your AP, swapping your mods and just hoping the dealership doesn't look at your car feeling like they need to do some research why this could happen? You gotta pay to play. Evo's are expensive, they're not an entry level car for the performance market. They are high-tech and full of advanced technologies. I hate to say, but they are even expensive to go mod crazy (and pay for repairs if needed) if financially you're part of that upper 20% of the 99% (ok political jokes over)
You asked what I did to my 11 EvoX GSR. Nothing. It's as OEM as it could possibly be, except debadged. This is mostly because I'm paying for my wedding next February, and the $13k for all of that is a little more stressful than I would like, and I do plan to modify. Here's my plans:
32%/7% Tint - Done
RexSpeed A-pillar gauge pod - already purchased, sitting on my toolbox
---Stuff to get below this line in relative order--------------------------------------------------------
-Prosport or AEM digital boost gauge (still making up my mind, had both, liked the prosport look, but liked AEM quality)
-Prosport or AEM digital oil pressure gauge
-AEM Wideband
-Intake (I like the Akuma design, but I want to retain the intake snorkel and have a boxed separator so I'm thinking about the K&N. I like the box-to-snorkel look of the AP, but I don't like the use of the OE rubber hose to the turbo inlet. K&N also goes all the way to the hood when it's closed, which is good for separation of heat)
-Suspension - I want quality coilovers, but I'm not going to break my bank, because I'm not going to track the car
-Wheels Rota Grid 18x9.5 +20 in Gold. I had Volk RE30s on my STi, I'm cool with poser-wheels :-)
-Cat-Back. Still deciding, I hate the OE look, but I don't want drone at 75-80mph.
-U/LICPs
-ETS 4" FMIC in black (I live in Phx, at night it cools to 95-105F in summer, heat soak a big problem)
-I *might* do a high-flow cat, only if the local dealership agrees that it's okay and because I have a catalyst present, they won't see it as a federal issue. Of course it all depends on how my A/F ratios look
I desperately want a tune from a local tuner I like, but I'm not in a position to pay for repairs on this car yet, so until I can laugh at the warranty, I'm keeping it very basic.
Anyhow, that's my action plan. If anything happens and Mitsu takes my warranty away..I'm going for exhaust mani, turbo, DP, GS 3port, pump, injectors, E85 and just under 400whp until I can build a block, then going for 450ish as my daily driver.
I hope that helps ya
YES it does man, thanks!!!! Although it seems like common sense to me and you, others seem to give bad advice when it comes to warranty safe mods and i really think they believe what they are saying
Nothing against anyone here.....Although I can afford the car and make a decent living I still want to take advantage of the warranty that comes with the vehicle because it is included in the purchase price and it seems stupid to disregard it for no reason...I make about $80K a year so im not in the upper 20% of the middle class but i do make decent money...I also dont plan on going extreme with the Cobb AP so i would not feel guilty unmarrying it. I believe myself to be a trustworthy person and that is why I dont plan on going mod crazy and then trying to scam repairs out of the dealership..If i was going to go with the AP and filter for my mods I would not try to push anything more than 40whp out of the engine..I think that is pretty fair considering the circumstances. If i was going to change the blowoff valve, get a full intake, get a stage 2 or 3 tune and not watch my a/f ratio then i would not expect warranty work. I also would get a wideband O2 sensor if I was going to mess with the fuel maps but most likely i am jjust going to go with the safest map i can find for a basic stock car with a filter...nothing else...well snow tires and maybe rims but those dont count...at least for the next 2-3 years and then i will change internals and turbos and do everything the way it should be done If i stick with my plan do you think I am safe? I will definately check and talk with the service manager of the nearby dealership because that sounds like a fullproof way to guarantee what is being done is safe but i think my ideas are mild enough and im not looking for anything crazy out of the stock engine...I cant thank you enough for your input man...and I do see where your coming from when it comes to dishonest people trying to scam the dealership...and it DOES happen...but i think as long as the owner stays mild and within reason there should be no reason that the stock setup shouldnt hold up to a 30-40hp increase which is why i would expect the dealer to cover the engine...I would also like to get a nice suspension upgrade for a good price but im going to have to research it to death before i make a decision on suspension...My last question is...Do you know of any ways to lower the car that are easy to install and uninstall so that i can go between the two for winter and summer months?? Thanks again for everything my man!!!
Oct 28, 2011, 01:05 PM
#34
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TheBlade is pretty much dead-on with his list of parts that do or do not affect the warranty (I do work for a dealership, lol). As far as adjustable lowering with wintertime driving in mind, you could get some rally-spec coilovers, but for quality ones, they won't be cheap. Bear in mind, coilovers will still give you some drop, even at their highest setting. Your best way would be to go back to OEM springs each winter, and drop it in the spring, but that can be a serious pain to do.
Oct 28, 2011, 01:47 PM
#35
Yeah I agree with Sudz. Get full coilovers, keep your OEM KYBs and springs bound together.
Fastest, easiest way to do a ride height change (without air or hydrau) is simply jack the corner up and swap the entire assembly in 1 swoop.
With any ride height change, I would suggest a fresh alignment too.
Also, even (especially) if you are going to do intake, BOV, and an OTS AP map. Get a wideband. I would argue its a better value then every other gauge you have. You can shift without looking at a tach and listening, you can do the speedlimit by just following others and Basic Speed Law, you fill your tank by how many miles you put on your odometer, you can use your heater as an indication of engine temperature, and you can only run as much boost as your A/F will allow.
So pretty much every gauge a manufacture puts on every cars instrument cluster is worthless compared to your A/F ratio. (well that and a non idiot-light Oil Pressure gauge). The really bad part is, how many cars have those gauges factory?!
Fastest, easiest way to do a ride height change (without air or hydrau) is simply jack the corner up and swap the entire assembly in 1 swoop.
With any ride height change, I would suggest a fresh alignment too.
Also, even (especially) if you are going to do intake, BOV, and an OTS AP map. Get a wideband. I would argue its a better value then every other gauge you have. You can shift without looking at a tach and listening, you can do the speedlimit by just following others and Basic Speed Law, you fill your tank by how many miles you put on your odometer, you can use your heater as an indication of engine temperature, and you can only run as much boost as your A/F will allow.
So pretty much every gauge a manufacture puts on every cars instrument cluster is worthless compared to your A/F ratio. (well that and a non idiot-light Oil Pressure gauge). The really bad part is, how many cars have those gauges factory?!
Oct 28, 2011, 11:22 PM
#38
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TheBlade is pretty much dead-on with his list of parts that do or do not affect the warranty (I do work for a dealership, lol). As far as adjustable lowering with wintertime driving in mind, you could get some rally-spec coilovers, but for quality ones, they won't be cheap. Bear in mind, coilovers will still give you some drop, even at their highest setting. Your best way would be to go back to OEM springs each winter, and drop it in the spring, but that can be a serious pain to do.
Thanks man..I have some time to find a decent price on the coilovers because i wont need them till spring so hopefully i will run into a good deal..Any particular manufacturer that is best? When it comes to suspension I like to have high end...not necessarily the BEST but it better be damn close
Oct 28, 2011, 11:30 PM
#39
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Yeah I agree with Sudz. Get full coilovers, keep your OEM KYBs and springs bound together.
Fastest, easiest way to do a ride height change (without air or hydrau) is simply jack the corner up and swap the entire assembly in 1 swoop.
With any ride height change, I would suggest a fresh alignment too.
Also, even (especially) if you are going to do intake, BOV, and an OTS AP map. Get a wideband. I would argue its a better value then every other gauge you have. You can shift without looking at a tach and listening, you can do the speedlimit by just following others and Basic Speed Law, you fill your tank by how many miles you put on your odometer, you can use your heater as an indication of engine temperature, and you can only run as much boost as your A/F will allow.
So pretty much every gauge a manufacture puts on every cars instrument cluster is worthless compared to your A/F ratio. (well that and a non idiot-light Oil Pressure gauge). The really bad part is, how many cars have those gauges factory?!
Fastest, easiest way to do a ride height change (without air or hydrau) is simply jack the corner up and swap the entire assembly in 1 swoop.
With any ride height change, I would suggest a fresh alignment too.
Also, even (especially) if you are going to do intake, BOV, and an OTS AP map. Get a wideband. I would argue its a better value then every other gauge you have. You can shift without looking at a tach and listening, you can do the speedlimit by just following others and Basic Speed Law, you fill your tank by how many miles you put on your odometer, you can use your heater as an indication of engine temperature, and you can only run as much boost as your A/F will allow.
So pretty much every gauge a manufacture puts on every cars instrument cluster is worthless compared to your A/F ratio. (well that and a non idiot-light Oil Pressure gauge). The really bad part is, how many cars have those gauges factory?!
I am definately going to get a wideband...I wont do the stage 2 until i have the wideband installed...My first install is going to be the Cobb with the filter but i am just going to do a very basic and safe tune..then once i have the wideband O2 I will up the tune..I dont think i am going to mess with the BOV at all unless I become good friends with the guy that will be working on my car at the dealership
I cant sleep.....Im supposed to be leaving in 4 hours and i am on 4 hours of sleep as it is from last night LMAO....Dont care...too excited...Pics should be up around 7pm my time? EST....I just want to say thanks for all of you guys and your great advice!!!!! Just for craps and giggles...If i DID decide to change the BOV, is there one that keeps things fairly docile? Like i said before, for now i am only looking for 280-300whp....If i can do that without a BOV change then that will be perfect but if a change is needed then i would like to go with one that isnt going to increase boost dramatically...or perhaps get a fully adjustable one? What do you guys think?
Oct 28, 2011, 11:38 PM
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I think i im going to look for a gauge cluster that has WB O2, boost, and oil pressure.......I never use my speed guage or tach...ever!!! Your absolutely right...worthless... But the majority of drivers wouldnt know what the **** to do with a WB o2 sensor LOL....But you would think a car geared towards racing the the evo would have one....I know my 300zx had a nice array of gauges but still no O2....
Thanks again TheBlade!!!! Great info my man!
Thanks again TheBlade!!!! Great info my man!
Oct 29, 2011, 09:18 AM
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The Blade has steered you pretty well, I think. Let me offer you my advice and perspective also. I was much like you, bought a 2008 brand new. Wanted to keep my warranty intact, for obvious reasons. I went with the cobb AP and ran the stage 1 map it came with from about 11,000 miles until about 50,000. The stock tune on the 08s was particularly bad, so this gave me a nice gain especially up top over 5000rpm. I started wanting a little more, so I got an etune from AMS (Mitch McKee). I felt an improvement for sure overt the Cobb shelf map, but it wasn't earth shattering, and couldn't be because to really approach the edge you need a dyno and monitoring of AFR, knock, etc. But it was a real good solution for me because you can uninstall the AP before going to the dealership, which reinstalls the exact map you had on your ECU before the AP. I had an ECU update and ACD update done while uninstalled, and no flags went off.
I could have done a catback exhaust and my dealership would be OK with it. I did not ask about replacing the cats with a single high flow, so I don't know about that. What I have read on these forums is that if you don't replace the turbo outlet/O2 pipe, most dealerships are cool with it. Intakes are another deal. Many dealerships consider this to be a no go. Some may be OK with it, you need to ask. If you are told "OK" get it in writing.
UCIP/LCIP should be OK. Mitsu offered a hard UCIP as an option when I was looking, so no prob there.
Boiled down list of warranty friendly mods:
Cobb AP (best would be a custom map made at a protune facility on a dyno, etune second best, Shelf map third best)
Exhaust, cat back or with high flow cat.
UCIP
FWIW, as soon as I passed 60k miles I went to the setup in my sig, and LOVE IT!
If I had it to do over, I would have done the exhaust and UCIP with an etune or protune while still in warranty, as I would have gotten another 30 or so HP to play with and still have had peace of mind.
Anyway, welcome, good luck, and enjoy!
I could have done a catback exhaust and my dealership would be OK with it. I did not ask about replacing the cats with a single high flow, so I don't know about that. What I have read on these forums is that if you don't replace the turbo outlet/O2 pipe, most dealerships are cool with it. Intakes are another deal. Many dealerships consider this to be a no go. Some may be OK with it, you need to ask. If you are told "OK" get it in writing.
UCIP/LCIP should be OK. Mitsu offered a hard UCIP as an option when I was looking, so no prob there.
Boiled down list of warranty friendly mods:
Cobb AP (best would be a custom map made at a protune facility on a dyno, etune second best, Shelf map third best)
Exhaust, cat back or with high flow cat.
UCIP
FWIW, as soon as I passed 60k miles I went to the setup in my sig, and LOVE IT!
If I had it to do over, I would have done the exhaust and UCIP with an etune or protune while still in warranty, as I would have gotten another 30 or so HP to play with and still have had peace of mind.
Anyway, welcome, good luck, and enjoy!
Oct 29, 2011, 07:25 PM
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just got home man!!! It looks beautiful...and I cant believe how much i really love this car...It is sooooo much better than my mustang gt in every way possible
WOW....I have to go to a haloween party though and wasnt planning on being home this late but i started driving late so I am just going to upload pics tomorrow!!!
Oct 29, 2011, 07:34 PM
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The Blade has steered you pretty well, I think. Let me offer you my advice and perspective also. I was much like you, bought a 2008 brand new. Wanted to keep my warranty intact, for obvious reasons. I went with the cobb AP and ran the stage 1 map it came with from about 11,000 miles until about 50,000. The stock tune on the 08s was particularly bad, so this gave me a nice gain especially up top over 5000rpm. I started wanting a little more, so I got an etune from AMS (Mitch McKee). I felt an improvement for sure overt the Cobb shelf map, but it wasn't earth shattering, and couldn't be because to really approach the edge you need a dyno and monitoring of AFR, knock, etc. But it was a real good solution for me because you can uninstall the AP before going to the dealership, which reinstalls the exact map you had on your ECU before the AP. I had an ECU update and ACD update done while uninstalled, and no flags went off.
I could have done a catback exhaust and my dealership would be OK with it. I did not ask about replacing the cats with a single high flow, so I don't know about that. What I have read on these forums is that if you don't replace the turbo outlet/O2 pipe, most dealerships are cool with it. Intakes are another deal. Many dealerships consider this to be a no go. Some may be OK with it, you need to ask. If you are told "OK" get it in writing.
UCIP/LCIP should be OK. Mitsu offered a hard UCIP as an option when I was looking, so no prob there.
Boiled down list of warranty friendly mods:
Cobb AP (best would be a custom map made at a protune facility on a dyno, etune second best, Shelf map third best)
Exhaust, cat back or with high flow cat.
UCIP
FWIW, as soon as I passed 60k miles I went to the setup in my sig, and LOVE IT!
If I had it to do over, I would have done the exhaust and UCIP with an etune or protune while still in warranty, as I would have gotten another 30 or so HP to play with and still have had peace of mind.
Anyway, welcome, good luck, and enjoy!
I could have done a catback exhaust and my dealership would be OK with it. I did not ask about replacing the cats with a single high flow, so I don't know about that. What I have read on these forums is that if you don't replace the turbo outlet/O2 pipe, most dealerships are cool with it. Intakes are another deal. Many dealerships consider this to be a no go. Some may be OK with it, you need to ask. If you are told "OK" get it in writing.
UCIP/LCIP should be OK. Mitsu offered a hard UCIP as an option when I was looking, so no prob there.
Boiled down list of warranty friendly mods:
Cobb AP (best would be a custom map made at a protune facility on a dyno, etune second best, Shelf map third best)
Exhaust, cat back or with high flow cat.
UCIP
FWIW, as soon as I passed 60k miles I went to the setup in my sig, and LOVE IT!
If I had it to do over, I would have done the exhaust and UCIP with an etune or protune while still in warranty, as I would have gotten another 30 or so HP to play with and still have had peace of mind.
Anyway, welcome, good luck, and enjoy!
First step is going to be Cobb AP and drop in filter along with Blizzak snow tires...Then i will work on the other stuff but to keep my GF happy I am going to limit my spending to $1500 for now...................
