Headlight condensation warranty denied
Dec 24, 2011, 10:55 AM
#31
But I also find it even more dishonest of Mitsu to provide a 3-year bumper-to-bumper warranty, yet not honor an issue that they're aware of, that could potentially be a safety issue.
BTW, one of my brake lights fogged up nicely on the inside this morning.. thankfully, it went away. I've owned dozens of pos $3k beaters that never had dumb problems like these.
Love my Evo, but Mitsu could drop off the planet for all I care
Dec 24, 2011, 11:47 AM
#32
Yes, not honoring the spirit of a warranty is dishonest, but, as I tell my kids (who are 11 and 7), when someone does something that hurts you, whether intentionally or not, you can escalate the situation or you can solve the problem (often by walking away).
Dec 24, 2011, 12:48 PM
#33
Excellent advice. But if he walks away from mitsu, then it doesn't really solve the problem at all.
Maybe escalating the situation verbally with corporate would be the best, and most honest advice.
Might not accomplish anything, but at least they'd be aware of his dissatisfaction.. which in a perfect world, would lead to a revised TSB and a change in manufacturing and/or assembly for future models (and in this imperfect world, he could just purchase or have someone retrofit some swank projector assemblies, which would be good for the economy - as would be having someone in corporate earn their pay by addressing his issue).
Maybe escalating the situation verbally with corporate would be the best, and most honest advice.
Might not accomplish anything, but at least they'd be aware of his dissatisfaction.. which in a perfect world, would lead to a revised TSB and a change in manufacturing and/or assembly for future models (and in this imperfect world, he could just purchase or have someone retrofit some swank projector assemblies, which would be good for the economy - as would be having someone in corporate earn their pay by addressing his issue).
Dec 24, 2011, 02:02 PM
#35
Or, put some of the blue washer fluid in both (or maybe red gatorade, or green coolant)..
..then act real upset, and threaten to contact the EPA or DPA because you're worried your car is polluting the environment with radioactive blinker fluid.
And keep a straight face the whole time
..then act real upset, and threaten to contact the EPA or DPA because you're worried your car is polluting the environment with radioactive blinker fluid.
And keep a straight face the whole time
Last edited by AFD; Dec 24, 2011 at 02:04 PM. Reason: ghrammer edit
Dec 24, 2011, 04:47 PM
#36
I build headlights professionaly, and trust me, your problem may indeed be that the lights are sealed TOO WELL.
If there is no way for the humidity, pressure and temperature on the inside, to get to the outside levels the lights can get condensation inside. This is like taking a cold glass of water out of the fridge on a warm summer day. Condensation gets on the warm side.
When I retrofit headlights I drill a small hole, about 1/4 or 1/8 inch and cover it with a small patch of gortex. The gortex allows gases to pass but not liquids.
This may solve your problem.
If there is no way for the humidity, pressure and temperature on the inside, to get to the outside levels the lights can get condensation inside. This is like taking a cold glass of water out of the fridge on a warm summer day. Condensation gets on the warm side.
When I retrofit headlights I drill a small hole, about 1/4 or 1/8 inch and cover it with a small patch of gortex. The gortex allows gases to pass but not liquids.
This may solve your problem.
Dec 24, 2011, 10:58 PM
#40
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yes a hot bulb and water dont mix = exploding bulb . this could potentionally happen on a bad curve then lights go out causeing severe accident. ask them how they would feel about getting sued for thousands or they could just fix the problem for a few hundred!
Dec 24, 2011, 11:21 PM
#41
Then again, it not like our bulbs are easy to change anyway.
I remember changing a bulb in the dark, without a flashlight, just by touch on my old Saturn.. don't think I could do that with the X.
Heck, I'm not even sure I could change out the bulbs without removing the whole damn bumper first
Dec 25, 2011, 06:36 PM
#43
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Well, I'll let you guys knows what corporate says by Tuesday, I'm suppose to have a response by COB then.
My current plan is to dig up some FMVSS regulations tonight and see if there's any requirements for distance new cars must illuminate on the road. If there's some concerete requirement from NHTSA, I'm going to pull that card if they deny this again. We'll see how it goes.
Thankfully, I have access to Toyota Legal through work, so we'll see how that argument goes if I mention I also have corporate lawyers
My current plan is to dig up some FMVSS regulations tonight and see if there's any requirements for distance new cars must illuminate on the road. If there's some concerete requirement from NHTSA, I'm going to pull that card if they deny this again. We'll see how it goes.
Thankfully, I have access to Toyota Legal through work, so we'll see how that argument goes if I mention I also have corporate lawyers
Dec 25, 2011, 07:00 PM
#44
did you guys not read what this guy said?
you can also crack your headlight bulbs slightly to allow air to come out, or do what someone else did and take a blowdryer to the inside openings.
there IS a simpler fix to this people
I build headlights professionaly, and trust me, your problem may indeed be that the lights are sealed TOO WELL.
If there is no way for the humidity, pressure and temperature on the inside, to get to the outside levels the lights can get condensation inside. This is like taking a cold glass of water out of the fridge on a warm summer day. Condensation gets on the warm side.
When I retrofit headlights I drill a small hole, about 1/4 or 1/8 inch and cover it with a small patch of gortex. The gortex allows gases to pass but not liquids.
This may solve your problem.
If there is no way for the humidity, pressure and temperature on the inside, to get to the outside levels the lights can get condensation inside. This is like taking a cold glass of water out of the fridge on a warm summer day. Condensation gets on the warm side.
When I retrofit headlights I drill a small hole, about 1/4 or 1/8 inch and cover it with a small patch of gortex. The gortex allows gases to pass but not liquids.
This may solve your problem.
there IS a simpler fix to this people
Dec 26, 2011, 07:34 AM
#45
Someone's comment made me think...I might consider leaving the condensation just to see how many suckers I can convince that the car actually has "blinker fluid" :-D
Better yet, take it back to the same dealer denying the claim for a service, and tell them that if it's not broken, then it's obviously low on 'blinker fluid' and then ask them to fill it.
--Either you can prove they aren't topping off fluids, or they will break it enough to warranty the repair ^__^
Better yet, take it back to the same dealer denying the claim for a service, and tell them that if it's not broken, then it's obviously low on 'blinker fluid' and then ask them to fill it.
--Either you can prove they aren't topping off fluids, or they will break it enough to warranty the repair ^__^