i went with the ichiba hum centric spacers and love em! im lowered on eibach springs

 

I just did this to my 2011, I simply picked up a set of 15mm spacers from H&R which comes with extended studs, ive used them in past and are a great product.. i decided to go with 15mm b/c the bigger the spacer the more pressure on the bearings. To make if flush probably 25mm would be best but in my opinion 15 is great compromise and looks great.

 

the stance looks good jdmevil8...i'll probably go for 15-20mm as well...

i wanted to save myself from the headache of replacing the studs completely so i guess ichiba v2 is a good choice.

 

Got more shots??? I'm contemplating white rims for my WW GSR... Was curious what BBS looks like in white... I'd like White Rota Grid but don't feel like letting go the BBS for Rotas...

 

I suggest not using a bolt on spacer and following the other recommendation for the ARP extended lugs. You will have considerably greater flexibility if you choose to change wheels, spacers or head to the track with much wider tires or rims. I'm not trying to indicate there is anything wrong or unsafe with a bolt on spacer, only that, if you are going to spend any money on this, spend a little more and go all the way - have the oem lugs swapped front and back to extended lugs. Then you are strong, safe, and can do anything you want with spacers, wheels and such.

 

it's a valid point... how difficult is it to replace the studs? My friend seems to think it's a big job and I don't have any experience with that in particular

 

With extended lugs and a slip on spacer you're creating two shear points on the same stud with only the lug nut at the end applying pressure to the hub face. Not sure I'd like that on the track. I've seen many track only car from japan using those Kics projects spacers so that's why I went that way instead. And actually I think these are more expensive than a set of slip on with extended studs... I've had 6 sets on my cars, can't beat the quality/toughness of these!

I'm sure slip on will be fine too though.

 

From what hat I understand it is the opposite, as the shear points with the track stud (longer stud) are not doubled and race cars, including ours, typically use longer, and stronger studs as a way to deal with wider wheel faces, spacers and to facilitate swapping wheels. In fact, aside from adding a little unwanted rotating weight, the extra set of studs on the spacer offers another failure point. Remember that, at the race track, the wheels get hot, very in fact, and so you'll want to consider all of the different types of metals that are interfacing, heating and cooling at different rates.

Keep it simple. The longer studs are called "track studs" for that reason. Finally, some sanction body rules won't permit your use of studs bolted into a spacer that's bolted into a wheel or, and more common, they won't permit closed ended nuts. They want to see the nut engaged all the way onto the stud.

Putting in longer studs is harder than bolting another spacer with studs on top of your existing studs. The fronts are not too bad but the rears can take a bit. Inevitably, the best way to do things seems to be the hardest and most expensive as I'm sure track studs and good hubcentric spacers will cost more than a set of spacers with their own little lugs attached. Again, if you are not headed to the track than I think using these are fine. If you are, or want to do things at 100% then I suggest the full monty, track studs and good spacers. They won't look any cooler but you'll know.

Here's what they look like:



see, you can't really tell...




You can read a little more here:

http://www.************/forums/index...-to-arp-studs/

Do it right.