Hey guys,
Nothing special here just wondering what kind of preferences everyone has as far a scheduled maintainance. Im about to hit the 30k mark. I change my oil myself and regularly and Ive thumbed through the manual on what the dealership reccomends. My question is what things if any do you like to do early/more often. Replacements/flushes/ect. I do not drive my car hard on the road but I do drag and road course it once or twice a month. Full bolt-ons stock turbo stock block. 340hp/330tq. Thanx alot

 

Well, I weould def take a look at the 4 fluids under the car after they have been replaced at 30,000 miles. While mine is a DD, I had a local shop, who is familiar with EVO's, do the fluid change and that crap was N-A-S-T-Y........prolly do the fluid change every other year now, even though it is driven only 5,000 miles per year.

 

Thanx Man. Fluids are def on my hit list. I was wondering if I should pay more attention to the transfer case and stuff

 

I have always done all major/minor maintenance on all of my cars and it always feels good to know it was done right. Here is my .02

@ 30K miles

Need to change:
- Engine Coolant (50/50 ethylene-glycol base products for aluminum component protection)
- Transmission Fluid 3 quarts (Amsoil 75w-90 GL4 or Mitsubishi Diaqueen Multi Gear Oil 75W-80 API GL3) ** Some people use a redline "cocktail" mixture as a remedy for "notchy-shifting" but YMMV.
- Transfer Case Fluid 0.9 quarts (Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil)
- Rear Differential Fluid [Differential Mechanism] .58 quarts (Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil)
- Rear Differential Fluid [Torque Transfer Mechanism] .58 quart (Mitsubishi Diamond ATF-SP III)

Inspect and change IF necessary:
- Drive Belt (aka. Serpentine/Accessory Belt)
- Air filter
- Cabin Air Filter
- Brakes (rotors and pads)
- Suspension components (esp. Worn bushings and CV boot for leakage)

** Important ** Make sure to buy new "crush" washers for all of the drain and fill bolts. This includes the washer for:
- engine oil drain bolt
- transmission fill bolt
- transmission drain bolt
- transfer case fill bolt
- transfer case drain bolt
- differential fill bolt
- differential drain bolt
- differential "torque transfer mechanism" fill bolt
- differential "torque transfer mechanism" drain bolt

I know its a lot of washers, but to end up with a proper torque for each of the bolts, using a new crush washer is highly recommended.

And the best part about it all: At the end of the night, you can sleep well knowing that it was done right.

For reference:

 

Thanx soooo much guys. Very helpful

 

Any modified car, especially one that see's even occasional track duty, absolutely needs to follow, at the very minimum, the severe duty maintenance schedule.

 

I've been wondering about this as well. I'm coming up on my 15k service.

 

Well said, and at least. And why not, fluids, in comparison, are cheap.