coryl

You bought an X because it's an awesome car for the money minus the pump issue.

Yes, being serious rallyists, those guys will have altered much giving them access to different areas that we don't and probably will never want to have...I have no plans to remove my back seat for pump relocation...lol.

You are actually very lucky to have gotten 5 years out of your pump when many get two or less years of use when winter driving this car. I can't imagine it had much to do with your AYC being active at that 5 year point but there's definitely more strain on the motor and especially as fluids thicken in winter or after the pump has damage and is compromised. It was probably just a matter of time before it failed because I can imagine the entire pump was pretty damaged with corrosion.

A friend of mine in Alberta reminded me to remove my pump fuse prior to winter, and that would definitely help when temps drop to prevent the extra motor strain that would come with pumping the more viscous fluid and people at the Mitsu dealership I've spoken to have said it's a good idea. Unfortunately this doesn't stop the corrosion of our pumps in their current location. Disconnecting the pump when you get the 3 lights is a good thing to do to prevent motor burnout (if you plan to rebuild it) as it will just keep trying to build pressure. You might even be able to sell the motor if it's still working.

Pulling the pump fuse in winter or at least in around -20C temps and relocating is what I believe will save me big bucks in the future.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

What I was whining about is how the rules for rallying often don't allow more than one active diff, so the AYC (even if you wanted it on gravel, which I doubt) may have to go.

But I absolutely agree that it's awesome. In fact, many people opt for an X (with the rear diff from a 9) over an unmolested 9 (for rallying on gravel), because the 4B11, new chassis, and few suspension changes are all good.

Ignore me when I whine.

coryl

OK.

kikiturbo

I think you are worrying too much about relocating the pump... Properly sealed it should be quite Ok where it is in the stock location..

if you have a race car.. by all means, move it into the trunk if it is aloowed. but not because of the corrosion, but because of the impact damage.

coryl

I'm pretty sure they don't salt any roads there in Croatia with your warmer climate (-1C on cold days on average?), but our roads in the Northern states and Canada are coated white come spring and our cars are coated white in salt too. Also the extreme fluctuations with temperature we have with +30's and higher in summer often going down to -40C and sometimes colder here in winter causes the contraction and expansion of metals breaking seals plus these cheap aluminum casts rust like crazy and that's like a cancer getting under seals and into everything...our pumps all fail here within 2-3 years on average and sealing will only delay that inevitable outcome for us. This is obviously why companies who fix and seal pumps will warranty us for only two years afterwards and they are quite proud of being able to warranty us for that long. And with the pumps costing us anywhere from $2000-$4000, why wouldn't we relocate for a few hundred dollars? I wouldn't relocate either if I lived in most of Croatia, there's just no need to unless you race as you've mentioned, so at least you won't have to worry much about your pump and that's a good thing.

Talaryn

The problem is that these pumps are NOT properly sealed. Literally anyone with a ralliart or evo in Canada has the pump fail due to corrosion at the end of the bumper-to-bumper warranty, or just afterwards. It's a ticking time bomb in every single vehicle. And since it's not covered by the powertrain warranty... $4000 repair.

These pumps must be relocated, or sealed to prevent corrosion. And I don't see anyone offering 'pump sealing'.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

New wrinkle:

I just heard back from Rally America (the sanctioning body for most of the better-known rallies in the US): the rules currently only allow Evo 8s and 9s to move their pump (in Super Production). That could change, of course, but right now the pump in an X can't be moved.

Plan B: get new pump, seal it, and then add more protection around it (since skid-plates are "open")

coryl

If they've allowed the Evo 8/9 to relocate it makes no sense that the 10 will not, considering it's even more open to underside damage. I think you should ask them to change things quickly and with explanation of the importance to our Northern Rally cars in competition. I've raced my Evo quite a few times. Never heard of these kind of restrictions but I'm not in the big leagues yet but it's a plan...things that do not make sense should be changed and those of us in the know should ensure that. You and I both fight (or at least I think you do from what our posts have been) for what's right and for normalcy. We should not be restricted from protecting what will cost us a lot of money for no good reason other than someone hasn't had the time to change their outdated protocol.

kikiturbo

actually, we have too much salt on the roads trough the whole winter.... Also I tend to drive my car mostly in the winter anyhow...

Pumps here usually last around 40000 miles.. with the exception of garage queens and summer only cars..

here is one I fixed recently








evo 9...

I agree with you.... The relocation "kit" I made for my car was really simple, just some extension hoses, and the need to lengthen the loom.. However I never installed it because I wanted to test the effectiveness of the pump rebuild..

We usually seal the pumps with silicone on the joints and lots of very heavy grease around the soleoids. Some people even spray them with some underseal wax.

ACD tuning will seal the pumps they rebuild.. and for the record, if you have a pump that has seen a winter or two, even if it is still ok, you want it rebuild before sealing..

rebuild the one you have, seal, add evlar underbody protection and you are good to go. .

jamdread

Tried to get my EvoX pump rebuilt but that was a fail. 2 solenoids were leaking, 1 rusted to crap. The meta piece between the motor and the pump cracked. Pump motor dead. Good times.

This is on a 2008 evo that has 65k km's on it

EVOXTIMES

iTrader: (4)

Had pump failure at 100k c161e......luckily know a guy at Mitsubishi who flashed it for me and the code went away.......car ran perfectly for a couple months until I let someone drive my car two weeks ago..... he totaled it.....rebuilding it now in my driveway....should have a rolling chassis in a couple weeks.... waiting on parts.....will let you know if the code comes back when she's rolling again

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

There is no reflash that can fix a dead pump. If you really had a c161e, then it was not for the usual reason.

EVOXTIMES

iTrader: (4)

Whether or not my pump died from the "usual reasons" is unknown. All I can tell you is what I saw as I was sitting next to the guy reading the Mitsubishi computer. Had failure code c161e, at which point the tech said, "yeah dude sorry you're gunna need a pump" then says, " let me do a reflash just for **** and giggles since I had never had one"......fine.....once the flash was completed the code c161e was gone......BUT.... There was another stored code and I don't remember what it was.....and the Mitsubishi computer had a footnote that read something like "this is not a malfunction code" blah blah blah I don't remember exactly what it said. The tech was surprised as well as he had never seen it before. Took the car for a test drive and notice something strange. The Tarmac icon on the digital display was blinking.....weird. Brought it to the techs attention and he had never seen it before. So what we deduced was this.....when blinking the pump is directed to shut off instead of constantly cycling on and off like it usually does. When the light is solid pump is active or acting normal. When blinking I wasn't able to toggle between Tarmac gravel and snow. I also noticed it really only blinked under mid to high load acceleration. While at cruising speeds it didn't blink. Which was fine with me. It was working and I don't need a new pump. Win for me

So do me a favor don't tell me a reflash can't fix a dead pump.....cause it did. Also I'd appreciate it if you didn't insinuate that I was being dishonest by saying "if you really"

Furthermore, moderator or not, its these type of comments that keep me from posting my findings and opinions in the 100k I've had this car.

Please excuse this post of grammatical errors and misspellings......iPhone lol

EVOXTIMES

iTrader: (4)

I should also probably add that this happened right smack in the middle of summer.
The first time the code popped was on a road that had quite a few dips and it happened immediately after the last major dip. At first I suspected that my alignment was thrown off and popped some kind of Awd cel code. This happened once before when after an alignment was done the tech forgot to tighten one of the adjusting bolts. I was on a long drive upstate when it happened and had to drive all the back to Long Island. When I got there my right rear tire was chewed all to hell from the crazy amount of toe in. Mavis paid for a new star spec. Anyways, to continue, I pulled over took a look at the alignment and everything seemed fine. (Note: I later found out while performing an alignment myself on my friends hunter rack, the previous said tech also wore away the nubs on the rear cradle which holds the adjustment bolts. This is why I thought maybe the alignment was thrown) so I popped the trunk pulled out a 10mm and reset the computer. Drove 200+ miles over the course of the weekend with no issue. Then it happened again..... Not having time to have it checked I just kept resetting it. Slowly it would come on quicker and quicker.....finally to the point where I'd start the car hear the whine for about 20 sec and it would cut off and the warning would pop. Suspecting the pump had failed I brought it to a shop to have some white line arms thrown in that I had purchased 6 months prior. I would've done it myself but it was just too damned hot! Had the work done sent it for an alignment but of course I knew it wouldnt solve my problem. Really just was wishful thinking. So I tell the owner of the shop who I won't name I suspected it was the pump. His reply was, "oh those things never go" lol. Called a tech from Mitsubishi down and the rest you know....... Hope this helps in any way

Talaryn

Funny, I went in for an ACD code, they reflashed the ACD pump software. Code went way, but like you, I started noticing the flashing would come on occasionally. A month later my pump was totally dead (it's not fixed, sorry my friend).