Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

On the off-chance that this ever gets back on track, folks should be careful to keep the two kinds of failure distinct. There are failures due to plate separation and there are failures due to dead motors. Note, also, that you can both at once, such as when the plate separates and then the motor spins itself to death or when the plate separates and the motor jams and burns itself out.

Unless we have forensics, each specific example of a failure cannot be used to support or refute any theory. The quote/unquote brand facking new pump may have had its motor die without any damage to the pump's plate. That seems to be rare, but it could happen. It was Mitsu's theory (and they seem to be doubling down on it), but we know that not all pumps have their motor die trying to build pressure with cold fluid. So we know that what I'll call the "cold fusion" theory (with the allusion to junk science fully intended) is not always correct and is probably rarely correct.

For example, my pump died on a warm day. The pump was fully disassembled and we know it died of plate separation due to corrosion. The motor was also corroded, but was not burned out.

yz450f

Sweet product there! Let me know when you are doing up the deal so that I can get on the bandwagon.

coryl

I've breathed nothing but trying to understand and save our pumps for over a year now, taking my trunk apart more times than I can count, taking measurements/figuring out best placement, taking pics and sending them, obtaining pumps and figuring out the differences, talking with everyone I know, researching everywhere then finally begging to get the relocation kits produced with ensuring that things progressed even negotiating a better price in the end for us.


As I said, I was bragging about our cars and encouraging others to get an X when one of my friends told me I shouldn't do that because those same people were going to have a $4,000 bill in a few years when their pump failed here in Canada. I wanted to continue to brag about our cars so started the process of trying to protect and save them in the best way possible and the rest is history. I've learned lots and I thank people on this thread here too for providing much valuable information making this all possible.


Everything's ready with the relocation kits and they've been tested and ready to roll out the door. There are now 11 of us and growing in the group buy. My Evo X and my friend with his Ralliart will be the first two in that group to get ours professionally installed. I will be posting the pics from start to finish, and will be available for resource as will be the producing company, so others can follow suit and have ease of install. If someone wants specific extra pics taken of a specific process then let me know and I'll make sure I take more including of the bleeding process.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

I just completed another cleaning of this thread. This is an important topic. Let's keep it on track and skip the internet nonsense.

Johnr352

iTrader: (18)

I had thought I had seen a post or two with a couple of links to companies that had created repair kits for the pumps as well as kit/ tool to bleed the pump once it is back on the car. I can find repair kits on ebay but can't seem to find the link(s) to a bleed solution.

Presuming I have this correct, I'd like to rebuild the pump and then reinstall and bleed the pump. (as I understand that would be required after rebuilding the pump). Can someone redirect me? For the life of me I can't seem to find the post... Thanks

Thomar

www.acd-pump.com/
hh-ms.com/pump-repair/

Google.

Kartyman550

iTrader: (1)

Been said before, bleed solution from Tephra for $20

Johnr352

iTrader: (18)

thanks to both of you. I had found these but had thought there was another that had both the kit and a bleed tool (not Tephras) but maybe I'm mistaken.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

You're probably thinking of the Kiki kit, which is a box of relays, etc, that can be used to test and bleed pumps. They were sold in the States by Matt at ACD. Whether Kompas will be the new North American source remains to be seen.

Johnr352

iTrader: (18)

Thanks, I'll send a note to Matt et al and see what I learn.

It seems dumb that we can rebuild the pumps but can't easily bleed them once installed.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

I think that Matt is gone. Kompas might be the only option. But Kiki himself will probably chime in at some point, since he's on here quite often.

dmwicked

mine failed at 31k, thanks chicago winters! 08 GSR

Johnr352

iTrader: (18)

So here's a question I heard but couldn't recall where it was covered. A low battery generated a number of codes, including, they believe, an ACD failure. They cleared all the codes with their Cobb AP. The ACD failure code, and any others, hasn't returned now that they have a new battery. Is it right to presume that the different failure codes will light up again (if they had just been cleared), every time the car is started, correct? Presuming the pump has actually failed.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

Yes. You'll get a new C131x every time you start the car with a dead or unplugged or removed pump.

coryl

Yes, voltage issues from a bad battery could create all sorts of codes in newer cars by messing with all sorts of sensors even causing damage to the electrical system because batteries not only start the car they also stabilize the voltage. If I was the person in that thread I'd also test my alternator because that can fail intermittently and may be the problem so they should keep an eye on the new battery if all they've done is replace.


If the pump was actually failing/failed at the same time as the charging issues, the code and lights for that will always come back and what time may be dependent on what stage of failure the pump is in.