For those of you with ACD pump failures (merged)
#436
I did an informal study and looked at the dates people's pumps failed on all car sites and more failed during the less cold months so cold wasn't what kills pumps. You obviously winter store based on miles/Km's. Next pump you need to relocate it (or use guard and something like dynaflux 309), and use Redline ATF(depending on where you live).
After 2 years of research and understanding our pumps I now believe it's cold (only in extreme freezing climate which could damage the pump motor) and corrosion (99% of the time otherwise) that destroys our pumps. If you can relocate and use Redline this will be the save on your next pump IMO.
#437
i can guarantee its corrosion that kills them. i had the dealer give me back my old pump, and i was thinking of selling it for a few bucks ... if someone wanted to try to rebuild it. after i saw it, i didn't bother - it looked like a horror show. BADLY corroded, looked like it sat at the bottom of the ocean for years!
#438
i can guarantee its corrosion that kills them. i had the dealer give me back my old pump, and i was thinking of selling it for a few bucks ... if someone wanted to try to rebuild it. after i saw it, i didn't bother - it looked like a horror show. BADLY corroded, looked like it sat at the bottom of the ocean for years!
Yes, the recycled metal that our pumps are made of corrode badly just being exposed to moisture that's why I started this relocation project. I also have a Subaru and it's in the shop right now getting a new trunk the bolts that adhere my spoiler have rusted to the extent of going right through it (the guys couldn't believe it) and it's going to be a $900 bill I was informed today. I had the door bolts/interior bolts/seat frames already replaced on my Subaru including the spoiler bolts and they're rusting again only after two years after replacement. When I first looked over an old pump I thought to myself that this looks like the same metal that my 2008 Subaru bolts are made of now two years later I'm sure of it. Mitsu and Subaru obviously purchased their metals from the same cheap distributer in Japan and now I'm paying on both ends because I own one of each.
Your pumps will fail...its the crap recycled metal used, so relocate or do something, anything to protect it.
#439
#440
So whats the best way to handle this? I just bought a 2010 used, I looked underneath and so far I seen some surface rust but nothing major. Whats the best way to protect this? Is something like this http://synaptic3.com/cart/index.php?...roducts_id=531 good enough?
#441
i can guarantee its corrosion that kills them. i had the dealer give me back my old pump, and i was thinking of selling it for a few bucks ... if someone wanted to try to rebuild it. after i saw it, i didn't bother - it looked like a horror show. BADLY corroded, looked like it sat at the bottom of the ocean for years!
This crap recycled metal pump sitting underneath the car open to the elements behind the wheel well...OMG who in their right mind designed that? The first pump I took apart was as you describe and it was just two years old.
#442
So whats the best way to handle this? I just bought a 2010 used, I looked underneath and so far I seen some surface rust but nothing major. Whats the best way to protect this? Is something like this http://synaptic3.com/cart/index.php?...roducts_id=531 good enough?
The guard should give your pump extended life, but if you're going to have to remove all the connections to the pump to install the pump guard and bleed after anyways, why not relocate it to the trunk to 100% protect it? You don't have any pump warranty left either being a 2010, so you need to do something and especially if you winter drive it. The most difficult part of relocation (and it's not difficult) is removing the pump from the car and you will have already really done that to install this pump guard. In fact, reinstalling the pump would probably be easier in the trunk than it would be reinstalling everything back underneath the car with a pump guard. Installing the support frame in the trunk to relocate takes drilling 4 holes (at least with Autotorque's kit, and I believe other kits as well). You pull the relocation kit's ACD/AYC lines/electrical lines through the already existing trunk openings and connect. Fill up the reservoir in the trunk with ATF, bleed using Tephra's program or taking/driving it short distance to the dealership. That's really it and then your pump is probably good for the life of the car. Do the fine touches as I've shown in previous pics on this thread to make your trunk look stock.
With the pump relocated, I've raced last summer in extremely hot weather and now I'm winter driving it here in Canada...as expected, no issues, it's absolutely perfect.
Last edited by coryl; Dec 20, 2014 at 03:22 PM.
#443
The top upper oval hole in this pic was initially where your electrical lines went down to the pump, and all you need to do is cut that rubber and pull up the electrical lines into the trunk and then place the rubber piece back into that hole to seal the hole.
The bottom left oval hole was where the reservoir hoses went down to the pump and is now where the relocated lines come through to the pump in the trunk...fill afterwards with silicon as is in my previous pics in the final touches.
You can see the location of my first drill mark on the floor of the trunk to secure the relocation frame and pump to (for Autotorque's kit, other kits will probably have other placement instructions). It's all fairly simple to relocate.
The bottom left oval hole was where the reservoir hoses went down to the pump and is now where the relocated lines come through to the pump in the trunk...fill afterwards with silicon as is in my previous pics in the final touches.
You can see the location of my first drill mark on the floor of the trunk to secure the relocation frame and pump to (for Autotorque's kit, other kits will probably have other placement instructions). It's all fairly simple to relocate.
Last edited by coryl; Dec 20, 2014 at 03:56 PM.
#444
#445
This pic is of my friend's relocated pump, but shows you the approximate distance back you need to secure the frame/pump, so all the lines reach and the pump cover fits perfectly (you can also pull the lines through to the trunk and then mock-up the trunk to decide distance as well you get the idea)...you can see the larger back opening better as well for all the relocation lines/electrical connections/reservoir lines.
Last edited by coryl; Dec 20, 2014 at 03:49 PM.
#446
#450