Notices
Evo X General Discuss any generalized technical Evo X related topics that may not fit into the other forums.

For those of you with ACD pump failures (merged)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:22 PM
  #436  
coryl's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: canada
Originally Posted by FrenziedTom
08 EVO X GSR 27k miles...Pump died 2 days ago in -18 degree weather.

I did an informal study and looked at the dates people's pumps failed on all car sites and more failed during the less cold months so cold wasn't what kills pumps. You obviously winter store based on miles/Km's. Next pump you need to relocate it (or use guard and something like dynaflux 309), and use Redline ATF(depending on where you live).


After 2 years of research and understanding our pumps I now believe it's cold (only in extreme freezing climate which could damage the pump motor) and corrosion (99% of the time otherwise) that destroys our pumps. If you can relocate and use Redline this will be the save on your next pump IMO.
Old Dec 16, 2014 | 06:15 AM
  #437  
Landshark's Avatar
Evolved Member
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 699
Likes: 22
From: Pittsburgh
i can guarantee its corrosion that kills them. i had the dealer give me back my old pump, and i was thinking of selling it for a few bucks ... if someone wanted to try to rebuild it. after i saw it, i didn't bother - it looked like a horror show. BADLY corroded, looked like it sat at the bottom of the ocean for years!
Old Dec 16, 2014 | 10:24 PM
  #438  
coryl's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: canada
Originally Posted by Landshark
i can guarantee its corrosion that kills them. i had the dealer give me back my old pump, and i was thinking of selling it for a few bucks ... if someone wanted to try to rebuild it. after i saw it, i didn't bother - it looked like a horror show. BADLY corroded, looked like it sat at the bottom of the ocean for years!

Yes, the recycled metal that our pumps are made of corrode badly just being exposed to moisture that's why I started this relocation project. I also have a Subaru and it's in the shop right now getting a new trunk the bolts that adhere my spoiler have rusted to the extent of going right through it (the guys couldn't believe it) and it's going to be a $900 bill I was informed today. I had the door bolts/interior bolts/seat frames already replaced on my Subaru including the spoiler bolts and they're rusting again only after two years after replacement. When I first looked over an old pump I thought to myself that this looks like the same metal that my 2008 Subaru bolts are made of now two years later I'm sure of it. Mitsu and Subaru obviously purchased their metals from the same cheap distributer in Japan and now I'm paying on both ends because I own one of each.
Your pumps will fail...its the crap recycled metal used, so relocate or do something, anything to protect it.
Old Dec 17, 2014 | 07:07 AM
  #439  
Landshark's Avatar
Evolved Member
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 699
Likes: 22
From: Pittsburgh
Originally Posted by coryl
Your pumps will fail...its the crap recycled metal used, so relocate or do something, anything to protect it.
Zinc galvanized coated, and a "custom" cover made from a rubber floormat should keep it alive much longer than the original. it died at 5 years/30k miles.
Old Dec 18, 2014 | 06:52 PM
  #440  
Evo X10's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
So whats the best way to handle this? I just bought a 2010 used, I looked underneath and so far I seen some surface rust but nothing major. Whats the best way to protect this? Is something like this http://synaptic3.com/cart/index.php?...roducts_id=531 good enough?
Old Dec 19, 2014 | 09:13 PM
  #441  
coryl's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: canada
Originally Posted by Landshark
i can guarantee its corrosion that kills them. i had the dealer give me back my old pump, and i was thinking of selling it for a few bucks ... if someone wanted to try to rebuild it. after i saw it, i didn't bother - it looked like a horror show. BADLY corroded, looked like it sat at the bottom of the ocean for years!

This crap recycled metal pump sitting underneath the car open to the elements behind the wheel well...OMG who in their right mind designed that? The first pump I took apart was as you describe and it was just two years old.
Old Dec 20, 2014 | 02:25 PM
  #442  
coryl's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: canada
Originally Posted by Evo X10
So whats the best way to handle this? I just bought a 2010 used, I looked underneath and so far I seen some surface rust but nothing major. Whats the best way to protect this? Is something like this http://synaptic3.com/cart/index.php?...roducts_id=531 good enough?

The guard should give your pump extended life, but if you're going to have to remove all the connections to the pump to install the pump guard and bleed after anyways, why not relocate it to the trunk to 100% protect it? You don't have any pump warranty left either being a 2010, so you need to do something and especially if you winter drive it. The most difficult part of relocation (and it's not difficult) is removing the pump from the car and you will have already really done that to install this pump guard. In fact, reinstalling the pump would probably be easier in the trunk than it would be reinstalling everything back underneath the car with a pump guard. Installing the support frame in the trunk to relocate takes drilling 4 holes (at least with Autotorque's kit, and I believe other kits as well). You pull the relocation kit's ACD/AYC lines/electrical lines through the already existing trunk openings and connect. Fill up the reservoir in the trunk with ATF, bleed using Tephra's program or taking/driving it short distance to the dealership. That's really it and then your pump is probably good for the life of the car. Do the fine touches as I've shown in previous pics on this thread to make your trunk look stock.
With the pump relocated, I've raced last summer in extremely hot weather and now I'm winter driving it here in Canada...as expected, no issues, it's absolutely perfect.

Last edited by coryl; Dec 20, 2014 at 03:22 PM.
Old Dec 20, 2014 | 02:39 PM
  #443  
coryl's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: canada
The top upper oval hole in this pic was initially where your electrical lines went down to the pump, and all you need to do is cut that rubber and pull up the electrical lines into the trunk and then place the rubber piece back into that hole to seal the hole.
The bottom left oval hole was where the reservoir hoses went down to the pump and is now where the relocated lines come through to the pump in the trunk...fill afterwards with silicon as is in my previous pics in the final touches.
You can see the location of my first drill mark on the floor of the trunk to secure the relocation frame and pump to (for Autotorque's kit, other kits will probably have other placement instructions). It's all fairly simple to relocate.
Name:  Relocation028.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  51.9 KB

Last edited by coryl; Dec 20, 2014 at 03:56 PM.
Old Dec 20, 2014 | 02:52 PM
  #444  
coryl's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: canada
The frame and pump in the trunk ...you can see the slit in trunk carpeted enclosure for the cover, and you'll also need to enlarge the area for the lines to come through to the pump...an exacto knife works perfectly for this work.


Name:  DSC00276.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  90.4 KB
Old Dec 20, 2014 | 03:01 PM
  #445  
coryl's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: canada
This pic is of my friend's relocated pump, but shows you the approximate distance back you need to secure the frame/pump, so all the lines reach and the pump cover fits perfectly (you can also pull the lines through to the trunk and then mock-up the trunk to decide distance as well you get the idea)...you can see the larger back opening better as well for all the relocation lines/electrical connections/reservoir lines.


Name:  10646981_702585816488579_8763603086155050539_n.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  153.1 KB

Last edited by coryl; Dec 20, 2014 at 03:49 PM.
Old Dec 20, 2014 | 03:10 PM
  #446  
coryl's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: canada
My final relocated pump pic...You can see the bolt attachment securing the protective cover preventing anything from hitting the pump in the trunk. Doing the final touches such as cutting the foam to surround the protective cover secures the protective cover further.


Name:  DSC00273.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  97.7 KB


Name:  10464265_702585873155240_1141272311138306057_n.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  162.3 KB


Name:  10703627_702586146488546_6085068692916191590_n.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  159.5 KB
Old Dec 20, 2014 | 06:59 PM
  #447  
Evo X10's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
Wow that looks awesome with the cover.
Old Dec 20, 2014 | 07:06 PM
  #448  
Evo X10's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
Where did you order the kit and what was the total? I think I may go this route!
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 08:50 AM
  #449  
coryl's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
From: canada
I just heard that Mitsubishi has now extended the warranty on pumps to 10year/100,000 miles. I wonder if people are going to get refunds, and what for those who had their pumps rebuilt?
Old Dec 22, 2014 | 11:12 AM
  #450  
Sawdust's Avatar
Evolving Member
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 227
Likes: 4
From: Albany, NY
Originally Posted by coryl
I just heard that Mitsubishi has now extended the warranty on pumps to 10year/100,000 miles.
This was just confirmed by my dealer's service manager after I sent him the pic from the other thread. I'll probably still relocate the pump this Spring though since I already bought the kit...


Quick Reply: For those of you with ACD pump failures (merged)



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:47 PM.