LancerGSRx

Hi Guys,

Just want to get some feedback on the best mods to do for best gains and longevity.
Cash is limited so I have to select my tunes wisely and what I want to do wisely.
Here are my thoughts:

I can do my intake plus the upper int piping and the intercooler- plus get it tuned

I can do a cat-back exhaust with high performance cat, intercooler- plus get it tuned

I can do test pipe/down pipe, high performance cat, exhaust - plus get it tuned

I have spoke to a few friends and I can see pro and cons with all combination.
But again, cash is limited so I want to spend it wisely and get the best gains without ruining parts.

Also I live in Canada (toronto) and most tuner shops (that I have found) wont touch my car open source, so I need to get an AP.

can you guys advise me?

Thanks
Lancergsrx

Sev

iTrader: (10)

How much do you have total if you don't mind me asking? It'll be easier for me to answer.

zebra4

Dont do access port! I am from Edmonton, Alberta, and i paid Michael Golden to protune me via Opensource for $250, (his website is GoldenEVO). All i needed was AFR gauge (should have anyways if tuning), Laptop with ECUflash and EVOscan, and a tactrix 2.0 openport cable. COBB is a good company, but why waste so much money on OTS maps and the AP, when you could have a protune for LESS. If you are serious about saving money but want to make good, reliable power, do Testpipe, boost control solenoid (i use the GM one) and tune. This is only my opinion from personal experience. I do not work for Michael Golden, but damn.... My experience with him was great. He is very knowledgable and was willing to help me out whenever i needed.

LancerGSRx

Sev,
I had about $3000.00 to spend.
$1000.00 already went into replacing my worn out rotors and pads.
I ended up going with stoptech rotors and pads.
Now I have about 2000.00 left.
Now remember, Im from Canada, so things tend to be more expensive compared to the U.S

Zebra4,
You recommend I do the test pipe and tune only (with the boos controller)
Leave everything else stock?

Sev

iTrader: (10)

Assuming you don't have any gauges;

AEM Boost - $150
AEM AFR - $170
Sped Circuit TP - $175
ETS v2 CBE - $850
Cosworth Drop-In Air Filter - $45
Tune - $500

Total: $1,890.00

*AFR is a must imo, it can save your engine
*Rough pricing

I have no idea what kind of exhaust you want, so I just put brands that I trust. You can + / - some $ depending on how much you want to spend on certain brand parts or used parts.

shekaar

iTrader: (3)

A 'pro tune" can be had on either a Cobb AP, or via opensource. If it is more convenient for you to go to a shop for an AP protune, I would definitely recommend that. Smaller form, ease of use, and easily portable data logging capability. If you have reputable Evo tuning shops around you, I'd go that direction over an e-tune.

You should be able to get all this for ~2000 if you buy used or purchase less expensive brands.

Test pipe and boost controller is a common beginning mod path. You can see nice gains of just those two. I, personally, would get a cat-back as well. Those 4" tips look so much better than stock!

LancerGSRx

Thanks Guys.
So the "take away" would be to do my exhaust from the TP back, install boost controller, AFR and a high performance filter. Plus tune (with or without AP) at a reputable Tuner shop.
Leave everything else stock.

so my question is, who would anyone want to do a CAI or open intake, upgraded intercooler etc. unless they want to achieve a higher bhp?

or am I missing something?

Sev

iTrader: (10)

Oh I forgot to add, get a UICP too. That's a good one.

LancerGSRx

Ah I was just wondering about that....
The stock one looks like it will balloon under pressure.

I added the UICP to my shopping list.

shekaar

iTrader: (3)

UICP is also good as Sev says. Not for numbers, but I immediately noticed better response.

I did an ETS intake because it sounds awsome, and (can) produce some decent numbers. Intercoolers aren't really needed until later in modding...

I think many people do mods without a real plan to them, and end up with les than optimal mod paths. To each their own, though.

On a side note, if you're being tuned at a shop, you dont really NEED gauges. They're only required if you're doing an e-tune.

Sev

iTrader: (10)

I would disagree with that. I think they're very useful because it can indicate wheter there's a boost leak/overboost or for AFR, lean/rich conditions. There are a couple locals here who I know personally that decided against an AFR. They ran too lean...boom. Bad news. It's good to know how your car is running.

shekaar

iTrader: (3)

I didn't say they aren't nice to have, or that they didn't improve safety of modding. They just arent a necessity. They're a bonus, which can be foregone in favor of other mods if you wanted to.

However, if you have the extra cash to burn, absolutely put one in!

Sev

iTrader: (10)

If you're on a budget, I can see the gauges being a bit on the pricey side, so yeah, understandable. My brother is currently only running a boost gauge too. Although I bug him about it and tell him to get a damn AFR.

LancerGSRx

Ok-
assuming I end up going with TP and full exhaust,
High Perf Filter, UICP, AFR and Boost controller gauges. plus a tune done.

Will the stock Diverter Valve hold up? or should I add a DV or BOV to the list?

or will this all depend on the tune and how much boost ill be running?

Sev

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, the stock bov should hold boost fine.

Edit: I'm running stock bov 25 psi.