Also rpm problem
#1
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Also rpm problem
Hi guys. I have a 2010 GSR. Bought the car when it had 30k mi. Now close to 50k. Installed injen uicp and intake only around 40k. Car drives well until yesterday I noticed when I accelerate the car to over 4k rpm it would suddenly jump to 5k them drops back down for a second to 4.5k then goes back up again normally. I will only notice this if I accelerate hard. I checked the hoses and it "looked" okay. Am I having a clutch issue? Like it's slipping for a second. I also noticed a little bit burned smell after turning the engine off.
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Does this mean I have to replace my clutch immediately? Or it's a minor problem? If I have to replace it. Which brand of clutch is good? Should I be replacing flywheel and other parts with it as well? Thanks for your replies.
#5
When you replace the clutch is up to you. Once it can't hold a particular level of power, it will slip every time you tread into that area on the band, and that will further wear the clutch, reducing it's ability to hold power even more. Eventually it would get to the point where the clutch will hold no power at all and just slip if you give it enough time to get there.
It's really up to you at what point during the deterioration you choose to replace it, but that means it will have to be done sooner rather than later.
When you replace the clutch you should always at least do the throw out bearing with it.
It's really up to you at what point during the deterioration you choose to replace it, but that means it will have to be done sooner rather than later.
When you replace the clutch you should always at least do the throw out bearing with it.
#6
Yes it's serious problem. If you stay out of boost and baby it could last you a couple thousand miles. I have a Competition Clutch stage 4 unsprung with about 6k on it so far and I like it. Don't forget to remove the clutch pill.
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#9
You can go a few thousand miles without replacing a clutch, but it will get annoying. I would start looking at ordering an aftermarket clutch, like ACT. They are superior to OEM. Its also recommended that you replace your flywheel at the same time. Make sure that they are street versions of the clutch, the race versions make the car very difficult to manage as a DD.
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Ya my tuner quoted me 2k for parts and labor all inclusive for ACT clutch and flywheel. Anything else I should or can upgrade along with this disassembly?
#13
do the clutch asap, but if you have any mods dont do oem, go with at least a stage 2. stock clutch doesnt hold any type of power. mine went out at 13k with only exhaust and intake (100whp over stock)
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