Handling Performance or Tire Life?!?
Mar 16, 2015, 07:37 AM
#18
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Ok, some people are saying that 0 toe in the rear is unstable at high speeds, that it feels like driving on ice. What is considered high speeds? 65? 125? I'm confused now. Someone have an answer? Or does anyone out there run 0 toe all around have something to say about this allegation?
Mar 16, 2015, 08:29 AM
#19
Any amount of toe in stabilizes the car in a straight line. It also increases tire wear.
Any amount of toe out destabilizes the car in a straight line. This also increases tire wear.
Toe in compared to 0 toe will feel more stable, but 0 toe doesn't feel like you'll be unstable and all over the place. I'm sure it will feel different at first, but it's quickly gotten used to.
On Evos, I always run 0 toe, even though the factory specs a little in the rear. I don't see the need for it and I can keep my steering wheel straight and have the car stay in its lane at freeway speeds without major effort.
Try it at 0 toe. If you don't like it after a short period of time, add the rear toe back in that's spec'ed from the factory. Whoever's telling you that 0 toe is all over the place frankly sucks at keeping their car in a straight line with the steering wheel.
FYI, when I topped out my Evo at 150 mph, I had 0 toe. When I'm on the racetrack getting to 120, I'm at 0 toe. When I'm cruising on the highway at 60 - 80 mph, I'm at 0 toe.
Any amount of toe out destabilizes the car in a straight line. This also increases tire wear.
Toe in compared to 0 toe will feel more stable, but 0 toe doesn't feel like you'll be unstable and all over the place. I'm sure it will feel different at first, but it's quickly gotten used to.
On Evos, I always run 0 toe, even though the factory specs a little in the rear. I don't see the need for it and I can keep my steering wheel straight and have the car stay in its lane at freeway speeds without major effort.
Try it at 0 toe. If you don't like it after a short period of time, add the rear toe back in that's spec'ed from the factory. Whoever's telling you that 0 toe is all over the place frankly sucks at keeping their car in a straight line with the steering wheel.
FYI, when I topped out my Evo at 150 mph, I had 0 toe. When I'm on the racetrack getting to 120, I'm at 0 toe. When I'm cruising on the highway at 60 - 80 mph, I'm at 0 toe.
Mar 16, 2015, 08:33 AM
#20
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Any amount of toe in stabilizes the car in a straight line. It also increases tire wear.
Any amount of toe out destabilizes the car in a straight line. This also increases tire wear.
Toe in compared to 0 toe will feel more stable, but 0 toe doesn't feel like you'll be unstable and all over the place. I'm sure it will feel different at first, but it's quickly gotten used to.
On Evos, I always run 0 toe, even though the factory specs a little in the rear. I don't see the need for it and I can keep my steering wheel straight and have the car stay in its lane at freeway speeds without major effort.
Try it at 0 toe. If you don't like it after a short period of time, add the rear toe back in that's spec'ed from the factory. Whoever's telling you that 0 toe is all over the place frankly sucks at keeping their car in a straight line with the steering wheel.
FYI, when I topped out my Evo at 150 mph, I had 0 toe. When I'm on the racetrack getting to 120, I'm at 0 toe. When I'm cruising on the highway at 60 - 80 mph, I'm at 0 toe.
Any amount of toe out destabilizes the car in a straight line. This also increases tire wear.
Toe in compared to 0 toe will feel more stable, but 0 toe doesn't feel like you'll be unstable and all over the place. I'm sure it will feel different at first, but it's quickly gotten used to.
On Evos, I always run 0 toe, even though the factory specs a little in the rear. I don't see the need for it and I can keep my steering wheel straight and have the car stay in its lane at freeway speeds without major effort.
Try it at 0 toe. If you don't like it after a short period of time, add the rear toe back in that's spec'ed from the factory. Whoever's telling you that 0 toe is all over the place frankly sucks at keeping their car in a straight line with the steering wheel.
FYI, when I topped out my Evo at 150 mph, I had 0 toe. When I'm on the racetrack getting to 120, I'm at 0 toe. When I'm cruising on the highway at 60 - 80 mph, I'm at 0 toe.
Mar 16, 2015, 12:24 PM
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Well, I got it done... I can say it drives different than stock. Steering isn't as responsive as stock. But hitting bumps the car doesn't jolt to one side like before. Tread noise is a little quieter. I think overall being that this is my daily driver, know I'm saving my tires, im happy!
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[/IMG]Well, I got it done... I can say it drives different than stock. Steering isn't as responsive as stock. But hitting bumps the car doesn't jolt to one side like before. Tread noise is a little quieter. I think overall being that this is my daily driver, know I'm saving my tires, im happy!
Last edited by 1ucky11; Mar 16, 2015 at 12:26 PM.
Mar 16, 2015, 12:52 PM
#23
[/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG] Well, I got it done... I can say it drives different than stock. Steering isn't as responsive as stock. But hitting bumps the car doesn't jolt to one side like before. Tread noise is a little quieter. I think overall being that this is my daily driver, know I'm saving my tires, im happy!
For your next alignment look into flipping your camber bolt. Do some research on the forums about that.
Last edited by Roen; Mar 16, 2015 at 12:55 PM.
Jun 1, 2015, 06:15 PM
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*5000 mile update* Since alignment. My tire wear is better now. Inside treads were done for before the alignment, and now rest of the tire is wearing down even to that tread. Tomorrow I'm getting new set of tires, "Kumho Ecsta ASX". Can't pass up the deal I'm getting at local tire dealer. I heard good and bad reviews on them. but at least I know they will wear evenly now. LOL~!!!
Jun 2, 2015, 11:54 AM
#27
I got a new set of coilovers and wheels at 3k miles LOL I run -3 camber front and -2.5ish rear.. zero toe up front and a bit in the rear.. I'm at 7k miles now and the thread still looks good.. I am running 180 rated thread ware tires though.. So I don't expect them to last much.
Jun 2, 2015, 12:28 PM
#28
*5000 mile update* Since alignment. My tire wear is better now. Inside treads were done for before the alignment, and now rest of the tire is wearing down even to that tread. Tomorrow I'm getting new set of tires, "Kumho Ecsta ASX". Can't pass up the deal I'm getting at local tire dealer. I heard good and bad reviews on them. but at least I know they will wear evenly now. LOL~!!!
There is a very good reason why those horrible *** tires are always on sale at tire dealers, they suck unbelievably. (uneven tire wear, premature dry rot, loudest road noise of all time)
I've had 3 sets, on 2 different vehicles and they are by far the worst tires on the planet. Sorry for the rant, but they just flat out suck.
You can't beat the price though, here's hoping you end up with a good set.
Jun 6, 2015, 05:32 PM
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Ok after about 200 miles I have to say no bueno on the Kumho's. The dealer gashed my rim so I requested instead of repairing it to upgrade my tires at no cost. I'm getting the Nitto Motivo's put on my car. Can't wait to try them out!!
Jun 8, 2015, 05:59 PM
#30
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With tires, the old saying, "you get what you pay for" applies. To get decent tread wear, peformance/grip, comfort, wet etc, you'll have to pay a bit more. Value or budget minded tires usually are only really good at one thing. Best advice is to shop for special (buy 3 get one free, rebates etc) for good tires, but even then, you'll likely sacrifice something.
For me, I've been running Michelin Pilot Super Sports, which are excellent in the wet, quiet, with great response, maybe 1/4 worn at the most with 6,500 miles, yet they grip no where near the OEMs.
For me, I've been running Michelin Pilot Super Sports, which are excellent in the wet, quiet, with great response, maybe 1/4 worn at the most with 6,500 miles, yet they grip no where near the OEMs.