dragon831

iTrader: (1)

I have the AMS master cylinder upgrade. When I first start driving the car everything is normal. After about 10 mins, the clutch engagement point starts to slowly get lower and lower up to the point to where it no longer engages and I have to shift without using the clutch. My reservoir is full and I dont see any leaks by the pedal. Havent had a chance to bleed it yet, but I dont think that's going to fix the problem. Any suggestions? Also Im running the quarter master 8 leg.

nvmaddog

iTrader: (1)

This is the opposite of an "upgrade".

First try bleeding the system, the most common leak location would be from the foot well area if it were leaking.

dragon831

iTrader: (1)

You may be thinking of the Ams ring that they came out with for a bit, however I am talking about the complete assembly that they have. I have checked for leaks and can not find any. Next on the list is to bleed the system but as I said, the engagement point is nice and stable for about 10 mins of city driving. Then it slowly starts to lower itself until it's on the floor. After the car is parked for a few hours, the process repeats itself.

Napalm_Enema

cmc failing?

ddawg1130

iTrader: (1)

Bleed it. But that still shouldn't be happening.

I wouldn't drive your car until the clutch properly disengages or you will tear through your synchros and need to rebuild the transmission.

dragon831

iTrader: (1)

Thankfully it's not my daily and is sitting at the house. It works fine for a while, then the engagement point slowly starts to get lower and lower as the amount of "free play" in the pedal increases. I have to keep pushing the clutch farther and farther down before it will engage.

fafaforza

iTrader: (3)

Maybe the heat from the engine makes the air expand, making it feel spongy. If you still have stock rubber lines, maybe the rubber heats up and expands? A steel braided line is only like $50. If your fluid is old, might be worth replacing it too.

dragon831

iTrader: (1)

Fluid is good, and already have the braided lines. I"m thinking I may just sit in the car and see if I can replicate the problem without actually driving it down the road.

ddawg1130

iTrader: (1)

disengage* btw. Pushing the clutch pedal down disengages the clutch. Lifting up engages the clutch.

But something weird is going on and all signs point to a leak or air in the system. I would think air in the system would behave more consistently though and not depend on how long the car's been driven.

By that same logic though, I don't know how a leak would "fix itself" between drives.

How are you able to get into first gear from a stop when it's acting this way?

dragon831

iTrader: (1)

My car is not a daily so it's sitting comfy in the garage. This problem happened once. Then I drove it to see if I could replicate the problem (which i did). When it did happen the first time though, coming to a stop, i had to turn the car off, put it in first, then start off in first . I've been reading a lot about having a pedal stop when using a hydraulic release bearing.... might have to to look into that if I can get this fixed.

Projectjdm

Could possibly be a bad slave cylinder. I had a similar issue happen to me. It was a Honda. May not be the same car but your issue resemble what I was going through turned out to be the slave cylinder that was the culprit. Just throwing it out there.

dragon831

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm hoping that's not the case as I'm using the quartermaster hydraulic release bearing and having to change that out will be a PITA.

fafaforza

iTrader: (3)

I probably wouldn't take any long trips with it like this.

I had one of my cylinders fail 100 miles from home in a state forest. Thankfully I had a cell signal to call AAA.