is that really where you tap for boost? that line is the same line that goes to the bov. if i remember correctly everyone used to tap a different line off the manifold cause the one that went to the bov wasnt as accurate.

 

i tapped that line for the BOV and it reads good sometimes i guess cause it sometimes reads past 21psi..but it is also an electronic boost gauge so idk..

 

Help a noob out.

Installed my Perrin MBC roughly 10 inches of silicon tubing to waste gate. My boost is ramping up to 28 psi and will not tone down even with the MBC set to lowest. Any ideas thanks.

 

you dont have something hooked up right. the quickest test is to borrow some elses and hook it real quick. if you get max boost it suggest your not connected to the wastegate. another simple test is to switch your hoses on the MBC.

 

I've checked to make sure i have wastegaste and boost correct about five times and unfortunately don't have the option to trade with anyone. Anything else you can think of?

 

rikieru, have you tried bypassing the boost controller? See if it goes back to stock levels. I'm having the same problem. The boost shoots up to 28psi and then the ECU cuts power and shows a check engine light.

I bypassed the boost controller and boost levels drop back to stock levels. Install it again like the Hallman website and manual says - same 28psi. Then I pulled the boost controller and I found a hole in the barb!! WTF!

The manual says there's supposed to be a hole and it needs to be in a certain position for the boost controller to work properly. But it is supposed to be THROUGH hole??? I just have freaking leak. No wonder I'm overboosting - the wastegate isn't getting enough pressure so it won't open enough.

I sent an email to Hallman to see what they have to say.

 

Bastards! I used JB Weld to plug the hole and it WORKED! 24 psi tapering down to 17 psi. I just did a quick tune so I probably need to adjust it some more to get it down to 22-23 psi.

 

i had the same problem with my hallmann the car started running like crap and it wouldnt let me drive over 20mph.....so i put all the stock hoses back on and cut the pill that was in the hose out and im hitting 24psi without a boost controller now

 

^You don't want to remove that pill unless you are using an MBC. The pill is there to limit the boost pressure that is sent to the wastegate. By having that pill out you are just going to get premature boost taper and an overall boost loss. I don't know how you're still even hitting 24 psi with the pill gone, but even if you are then your taper has got to look like **** right now. Put it back in, trust me.

 

Oh and MKSEVO, that is NOT the correct way to connect an MBC. There is really only one way to do it, but if you want to go the creative route to avoid throwing check engine codes from having he solenoids disconnected then you can run it inline with them but you have to install it in between the wastegate and the T-fitting and then plug the vent line of the solenoid. This will allow the MBC to perform all of the bleeding to the wasegate and the solenoids will still get a pressure signal, they just won't be able to adjust anything. Why did you connect your setup like you did?

 

i dont have the pill anymore so how would i go to get it back to stock? is there anything else i can use to replace the pill ?

 

Thats is what I eventually did , but now with the ECUtek out , I have gone back to the stock setup and will let the ECU adjust boost for now. the original setup was to try and skip the CEL issue , If you read down. in the original post , I stated you would have to T in the system if you wanted to avoid the CEL.

 

for all of you looking for a pod to hold your boost guage, im working with a local customs shop to make one to attach to the right side of the speedo-tach area. we are also looking to make one that is part of the air vent on the right side, much like many audi boosters have.

 

X2!

 

ah