Racing Pedals Install
Mar 12, 2008, 03:30 AM
#16
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Foot Size & Technique
I'm 37 and have been driving stick, legally, since I was 16... I know how to 'properly' heel/toe and it just isn't comfortable for me; plus, my ankle hits the center console on this car. I've been using this technique long enough to be good enough at it that the days of hitting the gas pedal accidentally are long gone and I can brake full force just using half my foot. The pedals were too far apart for me stock and this resolved the problem. Thanks for your advice, but I'll stick with the technique that works best for me.
Mar 28, 2008, 11:14 PM
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I was thinking the same thing. I installed some like this on a WRX and they were a bit slick in the wet weather. I know mine had a built in ridge around the holes which would help for sure when it was wet. And then again those ridges would mess me up on dry days
I do like that they bridge the gap between the pedals though. I do most shifts 'toe/toe' now but it's not as easy as I'd like it
And to the person who posted above who says he likes his arms fully extended (and that's the 'right way') with a racing steering wheel I say meh....I need some leverage so I prefer to be a bit closer...not NASCAR close but closer than full extension
Last edited by MooseX; Mar 28, 2008 at 11:16 PM.
Mar 29, 2008, 11:12 AM
#21
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No, the holes are raised and have a lip (except the gas pedal which is smooth) which give your shoes something to grip on.
I got the revised dead pedal in this week and am going to install it later. I'll post pics.
I got the revised dead pedal in this week and am going to install it later. I'll post pics.
Mar 12, 2009, 04:55 PM
#23
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My brother bought a set of these SRP pedals from Speed Element, they are great!!
IF i didn't have the Ralliart Non-Slip Titanium pedals (and I love them!), these SRP's will be my other choice!!
IF i didn't have the Ralliart Non-Slip Titanium pedals (and I love them!), these SRP's will be my other choice!!
Mar 13, 2009, 12:50 PM
#24
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I don't know what you guys are talking about. "Heel/toe" downshifting does not literally mean you use your heel. Maybe on non-performance cars or older cars where this technique was not widely used and they spaced the pedals too far apart and you have no choice. Every modern sports car I've owned (except the Evo X) has had the pedals properly spaced to where an average person can easily bridge the brake and gas with the inside and outside edge of his foot.
"...'heel-and-toe" is a misnomer. It actually involves the ball of your foot and the side of your foot."
Full article here:http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...2/article.html
Oh, and since someone is going to say Edmunds writers are not pro drivers, watch this: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/F...mall_57431.htm
If you take "heel/toe" literally and use your heel on the brake, you cannot properly modulate your braking force since you are then using the less precise muscles in your thigh versus the smaller, more progressive ones in your calf and foot. Conversely, if you are using your toe on the brake and your heel to blip the gas, then you must be a contortionist, have really short legs, or be sitting wall back from the wheel, which is not possible in the X since the damn wheel doesn't telescope.
If you learned to actually use your heel and it works for you, then great...but it is not the preferred, modern technique and it much harder to pull off well.
What he said is CW, but you misquoted him. With your arms fully extended, the wheel should cut your wrists. This gives you the leverage to turn the wheel without leaning forward to remove your shoulders from the bolsters
"...'heel-and-toe" is a misnomer. It actually involves the ball of your foot and the side of your foot."
Full article here:http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...2/article.html
Oh, and since someone is going to say Edmunds writers are not pro drivers, watch this: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/F...mall_57431.htm
If you take "heel/toe" literally and use your heel on the brake, you cannot properly modulate your braking force since you are then using the less precise muscles in your thigh versus the smaller, more progressive ones in your calf and foot. Conversely, if you are using your toe on the brake and your heel to blip the gas, then you must be a contortionist, have really short legs, or be sitting wall back from the wheel, which is not possible in the X since the damn wheel doesn't telescope.
If you learned to actually use your heel and it works for you, then great...but it is not the preferred, modern technique and it much harder to pull off well.
What he said is CW, but you misquoted him. With your arms fully extended, the wheel should cut your wrists. This gives you the leverage to turn the wheel without leaning forward to remove your shoulders from the bolsters
Last edited by cyniclaus; Mar 13, 2009 at 12:55 PM.
Mar 13, 2009, 01:23 PM
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I don't know what you guys are talking about. "Heel/toe" downshifting does not literally mean you use your heel. Maybe on non-performance cars or older cars where this technique was not widely used and they spaced the pedals too far apart and you have no choice. Every modern sports car I've owned (except the Evo X) has had the pedals properly spaced to where an average person can easily bridge the brake and gas with the inside and outside edge of his foot.
"...'heel-and-toe" is a misnomer. It actually involves the ball of your foot and the side of your foot."
Full article here:http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...2/article.html
Oh, and since someone is going to say Edmunds writers are not pro drivers, watch this: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/F...mall_57431.htm
If you take "heel/toe" literally and use your heel on the brake, you cannot properly modulate your braking force since you are then using the less precise muscles in your thigh versus the smaller, more progressive ones in your calf and foot. Conversely, if you are using your toe on the brake and your heel to blip the gas, then you must be a contortionist, have really short legs, or be sitting wall back from the wheel, which is not possible in the X since the damn wheel doesn't telescope.
If you learned to actually use your heel and it works for you, then great...but it is not the preferred, modern technique and it much harder to pull off well.
What he said is CW, but you misquoted him. With your arms fully extended, the wheel should cut your wrists. This gives you the leverage to turn the wheel without leaning forward to remove your shoulders from the bolsters
"...'heel-and-toe" is a misnomer. It actually involves the ball of your foot and the side of your foot."
Full article here:http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...2/article.html
Oh, and since someone is going to say Edmunds writers are not pro drivers, watch this: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/F...mall_57431.htm
If you take "heel/toe" literally and use your heel on the brake, you cannot properly modulate your braking force since you are then using the less precise muscles in your thigh versus the smaller, more progressive ones in your calf and foot. Conversely, if you are using your toe on the brake and your heel to blip the gas, then you must be a contortionist, have really short legs, or be sitting wall back from the wheel, which is not possible in the X since the damn wheel doesn't telescope.
If you learned to actually use your heel and it works for you, then great...but it is not the preferred, modern technique and it much harder to pull off well.
What he said is CW, but you misquoted him. With your arms fully extended, the wheel should cut your wrists. This gives you the leverage to turn the wheel without leaning forward to remove your shoulders from the bolsters
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UARCEqmEZk4
Feb 22, 2010, 10:30 PM
#26
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Your foot position, as you even mentioned yourself, is not showing heal and toe technique, but rather what is called ball/edge downshifting. I used to do this years and years ago until I learned how to properly heal/toe. It is not a very good technique to use, as you don't have enough leverage on the brake pedal for hard braking. Not only that, but the other side of your foot will tend to come in contact with the gas pedal accidentally during heavy braking. The kit you put in looks fine enough, but the stock setup is already perfectly spaced for correct heal/toe action. If I were you, I would learn to heal/toe properly, and as soon as possible. It will benefit you greatly when racing, and it's just plain fun on backroads. Not trying to be condescending or anything like that, but just pointing out the fact that with proper heal/toe techique, the stock pedal spacing is perfect and doesn't need to be changed. Either way, the kit that you got does look nice. Let us know how you like it.
Honestly I didn't think anyone had ever taken the literal interpretation of heel toe seriously... I don't see how you could possibly modulate brake pressure with your foot sideways dangling in the air. I'm gonna have to side with the OP.
Feb 12, 2012, 06:49 PM
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I had some of the same problem with the bit walking as the OP. The center punch wasn't able to do a whole lot for me since I was drilling at an angle, so I thought I'd try one of those right angle adapters out of desparation. I picked up a cheap $20 milescraft right angle adapter and much to my surprise it worked perfectly. I was able to drill all the holes needed with zero issues- well worth the twenty bucks.
Feb 27, 2012, 04:58 AM
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