Racing Pedals Install
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Racing Pedals Install
I'm sure we all know how to use a drill, so I'm not going to bore you with the details of how to drill a hole. I'm not very good at it anyway.... This is more a warning of a few hurdles you might encounter.
Tools you need:
Corded drill (trust me on this one, the battery powered ones last for 1 pedal or so)
Phillips head screwdriver
1/16" drill bit (for pilot holes in gas pedal)
3/16" drill bit
9mm wrench
Center punch
I bought my pedals from here: http://www.srpracing.com/ and this is what you get:
The dead pedal is actually a prototype and at the time of writing this it doesn't fit correctly (although it's very close). That issue should be sorted out in a week or two and it's nice piece that will finish up the look. The allen key is included and there's a spare screw and nut/screw. I have no affiliation with these guys and paid the same hard earned cash you fellas will if you buy them.
OK, so first we'll tackle the accelerator. Slip the cover off and WTF?
Weirdest looking accelerator pedal ever. The whole pedal is plastic too. You can not use the 4 corner holes as 2 of them would be off the pedals.
So, get some nice green masking tape over the pedal, line it up, and use a black sharpie to mark the hole locations.
You should be able to see which holes I used in the final picture but you can use any of the holes available. I was only able to drill the bottom left hole with the pilot drill as I just couldn't maneuver the drill for the others. The drill hits the center console which is a bummer. However, you can simply screw the self tapping screws in, without pilot holes, with a fair amount of effort, which is what I did.
Next up is the brake/clutch. No surprises here; just a regular brake & clutch pedal.
Mask and mark.
We're going to drill now, so make sure you line the carpet with something to prevent those nasty shavings getting in the pile. Now, here's where I really wish I had a center punch. The bottom holes are easy to drill as you can fit the drill under the dash. The top two holes on the clutch require you to push the clutch all the way down with one hand and drill with the other. But, the drill kept walking, so I ended up bolting the pedal on with the bottom hole and using the pedal holes to keep the drill straight. Also, I simply couldn't drill the top 2 holes on the brake pedal at a right angle because the drill is too big to fit under the dash. I completely screwed up the top right hole on the brake pedal when the drill slipped and I started drilling the pedal itself. If I wasn't so lazy I would have gone out and bought one of those right angled drills to prevent this but, well, as I said, I'm lazy.
When putting the screws & bolts on, get the wrench behind the pedal to hold the nut (which has a nylon lining to prevent slippage) and tighten as much as possible with the allen key. Then, tighten like your life depends on it with the wrench. There will be big burrs on the underside of the pedal from your Herculean drilling attempt and you will want the nut to flatten these as much as possible. It will take some effort.
So, here's the final product. I might go back and try to fix the brake pedal at some point but the screw doesn't stick out and it's on there good & proper.
And this, kids, is why I did this:
Heel/toe (or toe/toe in my case) is now much easier. No longer does my foot need to bridge the 10 foot gap that comes stock on this car. Yes, those are my shoes; I did not employ some vagrant to sit in the car while I took pictures.
Here's a teaser of the dead pedal:
Will look sexy.
Tools you need:
Corded drill (trust me on this one, the battery powered ones last for 1 pedal or so)
Phillips head screwdriver
1/16" drill bit (for pilot holes in gas pedal)
3/16" drill bit
9mm wrench
Center punch
I bought my pedals from here: http://www.srpracing.com/ and this is what you get:
The dead pedal is actually a prototype and at the time of writing this it doesn't fit correctly (although it's very close). That issue should be sorted out in a week or two and it's nice piece that will finish up the look. The allen key is included and there's a spare screw and nut/screw. I have no affiliation with these guys and paid the same hard earned cash you fellas will if you buy them.
OK, so first we'll tackle the accelerator. Slip the cover off and WTF?
Weirdest looking accelerator pedal ever. The whole pedal is plastic too. You can not use the 4 corner holes as 2 of them would be off the pedals.
So, get some nice green masking tape over the pedal, line it up, and use a black sharpie to mark the hole locations.
You should be able to see which holes I used in the final picture but you can use any of the holes available. I was only able to drill the bottom left hole with the pilot drill as I just couldn't maneuver the drill for the others. The drill hits the center console which is a bummer. However, you can simply screw the self tapping screws in, without pilot holes, with a fair amount of effort, which is what I did.
Next up is the brake/clutch. No surprises here; just a regular brake & clutch pedal.
Mask and mark.
We're going to drill now, so make sure you line the carpet with something to prevent those nasty shavings getting in the pile. Now, here's where I really wish I had a center punch. The bottom holes are easy to drill as you can fit the drill under the dash. The top two holes on the clutch require you to push the clutch all the way down with one hand and drill with the other. But, the drill kept walking, so I ended up bolting the pedal on with the bottom hole and using the pedal holes to keep the drill straight. Also, I simply couldn't drill the top 2 holes on the brake pedal at a right angle because the drill is too big to fit under the dash. I completely screwed up the top right hole on the brake pedal when the drill slipped and I started drilling the pedal itself. If I wasn't so lazy I would have gone out and bought one of those right angled drills to prevent this but, well, as I said, I'm lazy.
When putting the screws & bolts on, get the wrench behind the pedal to hold the nut (which has a nylon lining to prevent slippage) and tighten as much as possible with the allen key. Then, tighten like your life depends on it with the wrench. There will be big burrs on the underside of the pedal from your Herculean drilling attempt and you will want the nut to flatten these as much as possible. It will take some effort.
So, here's the final product. I might go back and try to fix the brake pedal at some point but the screw doesn't stick out and it's on there good & proper.
And this, kids, is why I did this:
Heel/toe (or toe/toe in my case) is now much easier. No longer does my foot need to bridge the 10 foot gap that comes stock on this car. Yes, those are my shoes; I did not employ some vagrant to sit in the car while I took pictures.
Here's a teaser of the dead pedal:
Will look sexy.
#4
Your foot position, as you even mentioned yourself, is not showing heal and toe technique, but rather what is called ball/edge downshifting. I used to do this years and years ago until I learned how to properly heal/toe. It is not a very good technique to use, as you don't have enough leverage on the brake pedal for hard braking. Not only that, but the other side of your foot will tend to come in contact with the gas pedal accidentally during heavy braking. The kit you put in looks fine enough, but the stock setup is already perfectly spaced for correct heal/toe action. If I were you, I would learn to heal/toe properly, and as soon as possible. It will benefit you greatly when racing, and it's just plain fun on backroads. Not trying to be condescending or anything like that, but just pointing out the fact that with proper heal/toe techique, the stock pedal spacing is perfect and doesn't need to be changed. Either way, the kit that you got does look nice. Let us know how you like it.
#6
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Your foot position, as you even mentioned yourself, is not showing heal and toe technique, but rather what is called ball/edge downshifting. I used to do this years and years ago until I learned how to properly heal/toe. It is not a very good technique to use, as you don't have enough leverage on the brake pedal for hard braking. Not only that, but the other side of your foot will tend to come in contact with the gas pedal accidentally during heavy braking. The kit you put in looks fine enough, but the stock setup is already perfectly spaced for correct heal/toe action. If I were you, I would learn to heal/toe properly, and as soon as possible. It will benefit you greatly when racing, and it's just plain fun on backroads. Not trying to be condescending or anything like that, but just pointing out the fact that with proper heal/toe techique, the stock pedal spacing is perfect and doesn't need to be changed. Either way, the kit that you got does look nice. Let us know how you like it.
#7
Fair enough, it was just a recommendation. BTW, I noticed that my heel would hit the center console sometimes too, and if you position your foot a little higher up on the brake pedal this won't happen. Either way, like I said I wasn't trying to be condescending or anything like that, I was just making a suggestion. Do whatever works best for you. Enjoy your new pedal setup.
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#9
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the racing steering wheel will make you sit further,so easier for your legs. Install it if you are a serius track driver. Make sure when you sit in it , Your back is touching the seat and place your wrist on top of the steering wheel with your arm fully extended. That should place you in the right position. And probably you will never hit the console again. What you wright it up there makes me think your position is closer when it should be. I got the same problem too. The racing steering set up can help on that.
Other then that, the technic what you are using /as a heal and toe, there is a reason why they call it like that/ is very unortodox, but what ever is float boat!
nice pedals though. and nice write up.
Other then that, the technic what you are using /as a heal and toe, there is a reason why they call it like that/ is very unortodox, but what ever is float boat!
nice pedals though. and nice write up.
Last edited by Robevo RS; Mar 2, 2008 at 09:53 AM.
#10
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After doing track events for many years, and riding with many people, I think that the big toe/little toe form of heel/toe is just as commonly used as traditional heel/toe. This is the way that I do it too. I have no problem threshold braking in my non ABS track cars while blipping the throttle. I think it just boils down to what you are comfortable with. My ankle never felt right doing it the "traditional" way, but very natural doing it with my ball on the brake and little toe on the gas.
Also, after installing this type of pedal, you can fine tune the height relationship between the gas and brake by shimming the brake pedal (or gas pedal) with washers. This keeps you from hitting the gas while braking, and makes it even more comfortable blipping the throttle. There is a little adjustment on most cars from the factory, but it is easier to just adjust this with the pedals.
Also, after installing this type of pedal, you can fine tune the height relationship between the gas and brake by shimming the brake pedal (or gas pedal) with washers. This keeps you from hitting the gas while braking, and makes it even more comfortable blipping the throttle. There is a little adjustment on most cars from the factory, but it is easier to just adjust this with the pedals.
#13
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looks good. Can you describe how much wider the pedals are compared to the stock ones? especially the gas pedal... I am considering these because I do find the stock pedals positioned quite differently than my IX. Definitely a bigger gap between the brake and the gas pedal....
thanks in advance!
thanks in advance!
#15
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looks good. Can you describe how much wider the pedals are compared to the stock ones? especially the gas pedal... I am considering these because I do find the stock pedals positioned quite differently than my IX. Definitely a bigger gap between the brake and the gas pedal....
thanks in advance!
thanks in advance!