Who installed this O2 sensor?
#1
Who installed this O2 sensor?
Okay done with my AMS test pipe install. What a pain in the ars due to the O2 sensor being seized in there. Couldn't get it out so I pulled it out with the O2 in there and took it over to my buddy's garage. Impact, no go so we heated it up and impacted it off. The threads were toast on the end. Luckily there were enough threads on the bottom I was able to clean them up and make it work. The bad thing? After all that either the heat or the impact killed the sensor. No reading at all on the OBD II scanner. Grrrrrr! Anyone else run into this problem? Make me worried about tackling the downpipe. There is no cheapie replacement for that one and it is vastly more important. I sure hope some of those reflashes can disable codes.
#6
well the top threads were GONE but the bottom 3 threads were okay and after some clean up with a die and grinding off the metal from what was left of the top threads it was okay. Sadly it was dead anyway, but it is threadable. So now then. 4 wires on that biatch. 2 black, 1 blue, 1 white. The 2 blacks are ground. Now then which one is the power and which one signal? Anyone?
#7
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...-schematic.jpg
I'm pretty sure the blue is the signal wire on the O2 sensor wiring harness.
I'm pretty sure the blue is the signal wire on the O2 sensor wiring harness.
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#8
#14
One thing I can say for sure is if you don't let the sensor and surrounding area cool COMPLETELY to ambiant you will strip the threads this has been the case since the IX's.
We have seen several VIII's and IX's come into the shop with sensors welded into the pipe...
Use some copper or other ultra high temp anti seize on the threads when you do put them back in as others have mentioned to make life easier in the future.
We have seen several VIII's and IX's come into the shop with sensors welded into the pipe...
Use some copper or other ultra high temp anti seize on the threads when you do put them back in as others have mentioned to make life easier in the future.
#15
I think that's part of what is going on here, the exhaust and the O2 sensor have different expansion rates and waiting it to cool can make a big difference. Using a cheater pipe on the end of an adjustable wrench has worked for me well in the past and PB Blaster always comes through. Starting the threads by hand is much easier with a good coating of antisieze on the threads and will make it much easier when taking it apart next time too, just don't crank it on too tight.