AMS EVO X O2 Eliminator 3.0" Downpipe Installation
May 28, 2009, 12:01 AM
#138
I will be installing this DP as soon as I get my springs. I will drop the entire subframe to get to the front sway bars so I will install the downpipe while I am there as well. It shouldn't be too bad. Just a really long day taking everything apart and putting it back together.
I think as long as you PB blast the day lights out of the bolts you will be alright. If not I would just get my blow torch to heat up the bolts to get them out.
I think as long as you PB blast the day lights out of the bolts you will be alright. If not I would just get my blow torch to heat up the bolts to get them out.
May 29, 2009, 06:54 AM
#140
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This post helped out big time for my install and I wrote up about my install and tips just incase anyone missed something..If I repeat what others have said or did sorry about that..
I finished up my T1R Downpipe with Mouth in about 2-3 hours..GET THE 14MM RATCHET WRENCH WITH THE TILT HEAD(lifesaver and timesaver)..This is like 14 bucks at Loews..This made getting that one nut hidden a breeze to get out..Extensions are a must, open end regular wrenches and you really dont need air tools for this..Thanks for this post bc it saved me alot of time..You dont have to take the brace off the top unless you want to..I went from the bottom up to install my pipe and took a whole 5mins to install..I also installed all my intercooler piping and new intercooler without taking the bumper off..I wouldnt want to do this again from stock to aftermarket downpipe but to install another downpipe would be a breeze..There is alot more room now..I didnt break any bolts and I was shocked how tight these where..I broke thank god its was only an exhaust hanger bolt holding up the cat..Again soak these bolt..Spray everything down with WD40 or something like that..I did this before trying to uninstall the downpipe..I took the main heatsheild off and sprayed the downpipe then jacked the car up..I cant stress this is a must like others also said..Helps big time..Overall if you dont have the tools or the time dont try it bc its a pain in the butt..I wish I took pics but it was overcast and was raining on and off..You basically have to take
1.unbolt all the plastic under the car
2.take off the passanger wheel
3.plastic cover sheilding the pulleys
4.unbolt and take out piping to turbo (turbo inlet, intercooler piping and airbox) a must to get to all the bolts
5.under the car ( skid plate with 4bolts I believe are 2-12mm and 2-14mm)
6.now there is a metal cover with i believe 2-10mm bolts right above the CV Joint..this needs to come out to get the bottom bolts easier
I would recomemend like others have spray theses bolts..They will still give you a hard time but helps out alot..You might have to try to tighten these to break free but just a lil torque tight before you loosen..Worked for me especially for the back bolt..For that hard to reach hidden nut I was laying on my motor with the wrench..You can see and feel this from under the car and the tilt wrench will get it but dont try it..You risk striping the head then you have to take everything out..Lay on top of the motor and get this nut from the top..You have to use the wrench bc a socket will not fit..Also for better leverage put a socket over the open end side..Makes a sleeve for better grip and leverage..Make sure its tight on there..I forget the size I used your pushing and pulling on in a tight space and this will be easy on your hand and helps a ton for leverage to break this bolt free..
I did this with floor jacks on my back like others have and its really not a major project..Make sure you have plenty of time and its def worth it..This is my DD so I had to get this up and running asap..So the hardest part is unbolting the heatsheilds off the mouth on the downpipe and unbolting that back nut on the pipe..The others will put up a fight but you can atleast see and get to them easier..I hope this add on helps out with the install..I reused the stock gasket and I have 30,000miles on it..So you dont need a replacement gasket unless you want one..Thanks
I finished up my T1R Downpipe with Mouth in about 2-3 hours..GET THE 14MM RATCHET WRENCH WITH THE TILT HEAD(lifesaver and timesaver)..This is like 14 bucks at Loews..This made getting that one nut hidden a breeze to get out..Extensions are a must, open end regular wrenches and you really dont need air tools for this..Thanks for this post bc it saved me alot of time..You dont have to take the brace off the top unless you want to..I went from the bottom up to install my pipe and took a whole 5mins to install..I also installed all my intercooler piping and new intercooler without taking the bumper off..I wouldnt want to do this again from stock to aftermarket downpipe but to install another downpipe would be a breeze..There is alot more room now..I didnt break any bolts and I was shocked how tight these where..I broke thank god its was only an exhaust hanger bolt holding up the cat..Again soak these bolt..Spray everything down with WD40 or something like that..I did this before trying to uninstall the downpipe..I took the main heatsheild off and sprayed the downpipe then jacked the car up..I cant stress this is a must like others also said..Helps big time..Overall if you dont have the tools or the time dont try it bc its a pain in the butt..I wish I took pics but it was overcast and was raining on and off..You basically have to take
1.unbolt all the plastic under the car
2.take off the passanger wheel
3.plastic cover sheilding the pulleys
4.unbolt and take out piping to turbo (turbo inlet, intercooler piping and airbox) a must to get to all the bolts
5.under the car ( skid plate with 4bolts I believe are 2-12mm and 2-14mm)
6.now there is a metal cover with i believe 2-10mm bolts right above the CV Joint..this needs to come out to get the bottom bolts easier
I would recomemend like others have spray theses bolts..They will still give you a hard time but helps out alot..You might have to try to tighten these to break free but just a lil torque tight before you loosen..Worked for me especially for the back bolt..For that hard to reach hidden nut I was laying on my motor with the wrench..You can see and feel this from under the car and the tilt wrench will get it but dont try it..You risk striping the head then you have to take everything out..Lay on top of the motor and get this nut from the top..You have to use the wrench bc a socket will not fit..Also for better leverage put a socket over the open end side..Makes a sleeve for better grip and leverage..Make sure its tight on there..I forget the size I used your pushing and pulling on in a tight space and this will be easy on your hand and helps a ton for leverage to break this bolt free..
I did this with floor jacks on my back like others have and its really not a major project..Make sure you have plenty of time and its def worth it..This is my DD so I had to get this up and running asap..So the hardest part is unbolting the heatsheilds off the mouth on the downpipe and unbolting that back nut on the pipe..The others will put up a fight but you can atleast see and get to them easier..I hope this add on helps out with the install..I reused the stock gasket and I have 30,000miles on it..So you dont need a replacement gasket unless you want one..Thanks
Last edited by REDEVO08; May 29, 2009 at 06:59 AM.
Jun 2, 2009, 07:41 AM
#141
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Definately louder with 02
I got the chance to compare two almost identical Xs over the weekend and I thought I would share my impression. (Just don't crucify me...my butt dyno has been wrong before) Both Xs had FMIC, IC Pipes and Ultimate Racing Exhaust and running OTS maps.. Mine has the O2 downpipe, but the other one just had the testpipe back.
1st thoughts, mine is definately deeper/louder at idle. It is the deepest exhaust I have heard on a 4 cyl. Just plain mean!!!
2nd, the car (once again-butt dyno) seems to pull about the same. I drove the other one up some on-ramps and on the beltway...seemed almost identical.
1st thoughts, mine is definately deeper/louder at idle. It is the deepest exhaust I have heard on a 4 cyl. Just plain mean!!!
2nd, the car (once again-butt dyno) seems to pull about the same. I drove the other one up some on-ramps and on the beltway...seemed almost identical.
Jun 2, 2009, 09:12 AM
#143
I got the chance to compare two almost identical Xs over the weekend and I thought I would share my impression. (Just don't crucify me...my butt dyno has been wrong before) Both Xs had FMIC, IC Pipes and Ultimate Racing Exhaust and running OTS maps.. Mine has the O2 downpipe, but the other one just had the testpipe back.
1st thoughts, mine is definately deeper/louder at idle. It is the deepest exhaust I have heard on a 4 cyl. Just plain mean!!!
2nd, the car (once again-butt dyno) seems to pull about the same. I drove the other one up some on-ramps and on the beltway...seemed almost identical.
1st thoughts, mine is definately deeper/louder at idle. It is the deepest exhaust I have heard on a 4 cyl. Just plain mean!!!
2nd, the car (once again-butt dyno) seems to pull about the same. I drove the other one up some on-ramps and on the beltway...seemed almost identical.
Jun 2, 2009, 10:47 AM
#144
installed my UR o2 dp.
i broke one of the o2 bolts it was seized in there and had no choice but to get a high tourqe air tool in there (bearly fit) and broke it off. i put the o2 dp on there anyway with the other 4 bolts and it worked fine. didnt extract the old piece of the bolt. luckily it was one of the two bolt that are on the bottom side. not the one that holds the bracket on but the other one. took me 7.5 hours the first night and 3 hours the next night to do it becuase of this one bolt. as yes i hae experience doing installs. most of the 10+ hours doing this was working on that one bolt trying not to break it. in the end i said F it and broke it off.
didnt wana pull the turbo and all that to get bolt out so i called my shop to see what it cost for them to do it and it will be 5 hrs of labor. ill leave it alone unless it leaks later on, but so far its not.
if u dont have alot of experience PAY SOMEONE to do this.
i broke one of the o2 bolts it was seized in there and had no choice but to get a high tourqe air tool in there (bearly fit) and broke it off. i put the o2 dp on there anyway with the other 4 bolts and it worked fine. didnt extract the old piece of the bolt. luckily it was one of the two bolt that are on the bottom side. not the one that holds the bracket on but the other one. took me 7.5 hours the first night and 3 hours the next night to do it becuase of this one bolt. as yes i hae experience doing installs. most of the 10+ hours doing this was working on that one bolt trying not to break it. in the end i said F it and broke it off.
didnt wana pull the turbo and all that to get bolt out so i called my shop to see what it cost for them to do it and it will be 5 hrs of labor. ill leave it alone unless it leaks later on, but so far its not.
if u dont have alot of experience PAY SOMEONE to do this.
Jun 2, 2009, 08:29 PM
#147
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I took off every heat shield under the engine to get to one of the 5 bolts. I was worn out and couldn't figure the nut thing from the reverse side/under for 20 minutes I was so annoyed about that fifth bolt and the heat-shield-hell it put me thru.
Love the torque! MPG is better too. 2for1
Love the torque! MPG is better too. 2for1
Jun 3, 2009, 06:35 AM
#149
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Sorry if this wasn't clear. Both cars were running the exact same map and both had the exact same mods except for the long 02 pipe and different brand FMIC (Perrin and AMS). Both FMICs are generally the same, both cast end tanks and roughly the same size.
There is no cat-just a test pipe with mini muffler on both cars. Everything else identical.
There is no cat-just a test pipe with mini muffler on both cars. Everything else identical.
Jun 3, 2009, 06:37 AM
#150
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As I was working the bolt back and forth (it would turn about half a turn before seizing) and spraying penetrating lube in there I finally decided to heat it (maybe not enough), and after I heated it, the bolt broke.