...if you can not get it to work.

post up a pic of your relay set up and i can tell you what is wrong.

 

I have finished eliminating my non sss Evo X DRL. I modified "07outty" bypass procedure. I didn't wanna splice or tap my OEM wire so I came up with something that will not require splicing/tapping the OEM wire or removing the front cover. Installation is about 20 mins or so. It will work on halogen headlights and OEM hid projector headlights (this is what I have on my non SSS evo).

No click: handbrake down, DRL OFF
First click: marker lights on, handbrake down, lowbeams off, DRL OFF
Second/final click: marker lighs on, lowbeams on, DRL OFF

BTW, I didn't wire this to foglights or parking brake wire just in case you guys are wondering.

Will upload pics later.

 

awesome write up

 

please share

 

Why can't you just pull the bulbs?

 

on late model japanese built mitsus' with "regular headlights"

the drl bulb and the low beam are the same bulb.

in the headlights off/drl mode the bulb receives less power through a "switching relay".

when the headlight switch is put to the on position....the bulb receives full voltage.

 

Yeah, I just looked at mine and its the same bulb... sucks

 

cool... so i will be able to run halos without my daytime running lights?

 

Bump

Please share

 

will high beams still work with this method?

 

yes. high beams work normal.

the only thing is........since i use the parking light "on" wire to trigger my relay.

you can not have just parking lights on.

 

Bump for this method.

 

Yet another bump for info on this.

My guess: Switches being what they are, there's got to be a place to tap the "headlight on" switch either in the original DRL relay holes or perhaps a fuse. The way to do this is disable DRL in the same method as described by the OP but take the "To parking light hot wire" feed from the connection that switches to 12V when you go to the second click on the stock headlight switch.

More commentary: Switching relay??? There are two ways to limit power to the bulbs during DRL mode. One is to regulate 12V to a lower voltage and the other is to limit the current (which also lowers the voltage.) Since the stock DRL relay has a heatsink, I'm thinking it's likely a DC-DC buck converter that outputs either a lower voltage or lower current when DRL signal is present. The circuit would have the ability to send full power to the lights since there's an internal Mosfet inside that can be turned on all the time (switching it on and off causes a lower output voltage.) Since the 2nd click on the stock switch might be turning this mosfet on full time, there's a second signal somewhere.... and it just may be one of the original "switching relay" pins. I'll remove my relay and take some measurements soon.

If anyone has schematics or wiring diagrams of the fuse box, either post or PM me and I'll take a look instead of guessing. Then again, taking measurements should be straight forward. 1. Remove relay 2. turn ignition switch to acc position 3. Write notes of baseline measurements on stock relay pins with DRL, parking and headlights off 4. carefully re-take and compare measurements ONE AT A TIME alternating between these - handbrake, 1st click and 2nd click.

I'm thinking you'll find the 2nd click toggles one of those relay pins with 12V. Be certain between tests that you're DRLs have been turned off.

 

Post a how to for this please

 

Don't most Mitsu switches work by grounding, not power? If so, then the "logic" would need to be reversed: rather than getting power from the parking light to close the relay for the headlights, you'd be grounding the relay via the steering-column twisty, instead of having the relay always grounded to the chassis near the fuse box. I might spend some time with the shop manual to figure this out, since I hate DRLs but also like to be able to have just the parking lights.

As to how DRLs can be dimmer than low-beams, it can also be done by PVM. I don't know how halogens react to PVM, but LEDs love it. edit: Evos use a FET.

edit #2: the service manual shows that the left-side (lighting) column switch is directly integrated with the column ECU, so you can't get in there to prevent the column ECU from activating the DRLs. Thus, I have no idea how 206OZEvo7 could stop the DRLs at the source, allowing for parking lights without headlights. And given that s/he hasn't come back to tell us, I'm starting to suspect that the entire idea was vapor-ware.