looking for a how to on downpipe removal on the evo x
#18
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yeah... it is just that ONE bolt that is on the manifold to the downpipe side... grrr cut my finger to the bone litterally.... so i put it all back together and said screw it ill mess with it tomorrow after work
#19
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Here's a couple threads I've found that tell how to remove the downpipe. The first link is very helpful! (Well, it's helpful looking, I haven't actually done this job myself yet.)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tructions.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tallation.html
http://www.maperformance.com/blog/20...install-guide/
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tructions.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tallation.html
http://www.maperformance.com/blog/20...install-guide/
#21
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Any tips for the stud/nut combo? I have removed all of the other o2 housing to turbo bolts. I'm assuming you go at it from above the car and from the passenger side. Are you guys getting this one off with a flex wrench or with sockets? I tried using a socket/joint/small extension but couldn't get it on the nut. Should I pull the waste gate? The arm is in the way a bit.
I figured it out. The flex wrench wouldn't go over the nut because the o2 heat shield wasn't allowing enough clearance. I went out and bought a 12mm wrench, hosed the heat shield bolt down with PB and popped it off. After that a 14mm flex wrench took the nut off no problem.
I figured it out. The flex wrench wouldn't go over the nut because the o2 heat shield wasn't allowing enough clearance. I went out and bought a 12mm wrench, hosed the heat shield bolt down with PB and popped it off. After that a 14mm flex wrench took the nut off no problem.
Last edited by ProjectGSX; Feb 3, 2012 at 04:30 PM.
#22
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Project. U can use a flex nut from the turbo inlet side or use a 14mm ratcheting wrench from above. For both, remove the wastegate actuator bolts and spring to have room to get to it easier. This bolt takes 2-5 mins from the top since you can spin the ratcheting wrench towards the firewall to get the leverage to pull it towards the motor (to loosen it)
Hope this helps, I followed the instructions on here and it took about 6 hours total (3 hours per day)
Hope this helps, I followed the instructions on here and it took about 6 hours total (3 hours per day)
#24
I'm not a mechanic.. but i am a journeymen plumber/gas fitter... My Question is.. when you heat metal's especialy of diffrent types they will expand at diffrent rates... I can't seem to grasp the concept of using a torch on the bolts... how would it possibly make it easier to loosten them.. wouldn't it just tighten the bolt? and or soften the meatal? if you put a torch to copper you basicly cause it to be like buttter.. it'll just peel and break..
Maybe a mechanic can chime in on this... how would heating up the parts make it easier to remove? I could understand if the housing was hot but the bolts were cold.. then obviously the bolts in theory would be loose...as their smaller than the houseing would be.
thanks
Maybe a mechanic can chime in on this... how would heating up the parts make it easier to remove? I could understand if the housing was hot but the bolts were cold.. then obviously the bolts in theory would be loose...as their smaller than the houseing would be.
thanks
#26
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I'm not a mechanic.. but i am a journeymen plumber/gas fitter... My Question is.. when you heat metal's especialy of diffrent types they will expand at diffrent rates... I can't seem to grasp the concept of using a torch on the bolts... how would it possibly make it easier to loosten them.. wouldn't it just tighten the bolt? and or soften the meatal? if you put a torch to copper you basicly cause it to be like buttter.. it'll just peel and break..
Maybe a mechanic can chime in on this... how would heating up the parts make it easier to remove? I could understand if the housing was hot but the bolts were cold.. then obviously the bolts in theory would be loose...as their smaller than the houseing would be.
thanks
Maybe a mechanic can chime in on this... how would heating up the parts make it easier to remove? I could understand if the housing was hot but the bolts were cold.. then obviously the bolts in theory would be loose...as their smaller than the houseing would be.
thanks
You don't loosen the bolt while it's hot, you heat he bolt, and let it cool, and then loosen. If you loosen while the bolt is red, you just twist the head off.
It is also better to heat the housing in most cases, not the bolt itself, but sometimes you have to heat both.
For something like what is described in this thread, propane won't get hot enough to do the job, MAPP gas might have a high enough temp but may not have enough heat (BTUs) depending on what size MAPP torch you are using. Oxy Acetylene normally puts out enough heat and temp to do the job.
Last edited by evostang; Feb 20, 2012 at 12:34 PM.
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