Stock Downpipe Removal
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Stock Downpipe Removal
Today I removed the stock downpipe in my 08 in order to install the AMS turboback exhaust system. I didn't break any bolts
Here is a list of tools I felt were the most helpful and effective. They aren't all the tools, but they are what I absolutely had to have to do this.
-14mm sockets in 3/8" and 1/2"
-extensions in varying lengths. the most useful was 20"
-14mm swivel socket
-14mm flex-head ratcheting wrench
-3/8" ratchet
-PB blaster
-high heat anti seize
-2 ramps
-2 jack stands
-
-second set of hands would be helpful
The downpipe removal is pretty straightforward. I started first by backing my car up onto ramps and then removing the strut tower bar. This will allow access to the heat shields and most of the bolts on the downpipe.
I then put the front up on jack stands and removed the passenger's wheel. Other writeups mention the "left" side. I assumed that meant driver's side, alas, nothing can really be accomplished from that side. There are a few bolts that are easily accessible from the passenger wheel well, as well as the CV boot heat shield. I'd recommend removing the CV boot heat shield as soon as you take the wheel off. I removed the exhaust system piece by piece all the way up to the downpipe.
Next I removed the manifold heat shield and the firewall heat shield.
The heat shield surrounding the downpipe consists of 2 pieces. It needs to come off before you can access all of the bolts.
Before you start to remove these bolts, hit really well with PB blaster. You can remove most of the bolts on this side from atop the engine. The lower bolt above the CV joint (not pictured) is easier to get from the wheel well using a swivel socket and extension. The hardest bolt, actually a nut and stud, is circled in blue in the pic, though it's not visible. I used the 14mm flex-head to get this one.
Here is an image from below the car of the 2 lower bolts that can be accessed easier by the wheel well and by removing the CV joint heat shield in blue.
So yeah. That's pretty much it. I was a little overwhelmed by reading a lot of the other writeups, seemed like there was a lot of clutter, so I wanted to share my experience. It's a fairly simple job, just a few bolts that require some creativity, and beer
Here's a link to my
Cheers!
Here is a list of tools I felt were the most helpful and effective. They aren't all the tools, but they are what I absolutely had to have to do this.
-14mm sockets in 3/8" and 1/2"
-extensions in varying lengths. the most useful was 20"
-14mm swivel socket
-14mm flex-head ratcheting wrench
-3/8" ratchet
-PB blaster
-high heat anti seize
-2 ramps
-2 jack stands
-
-second set of hands would be helpful
The downpipe removal is pretty straightforward. I started first by backing my car up onto ramps and then removing the strut tower bar. This will allow access to the heat shields and most of the bolts on the downpipe.
I then put the front up on jack stands and removed the passenger's wheel. Other writeups mention the "left" side. I assumed that meant driver's side, alas, nothing can really be accomplished from that side. There are a few bolts that are easily accessible from the passenger wheel well, as well as the CV boot heat shield. I'd recommend removing the CV boot heat shield as soon as you take the wheel off. I removed the exhaust system piece by piece all the way up to the downpipe.
Next I removed the manifold heat shield and the firewall heat shield.
The heat shield surrounding the downpipe consists of 2 pieces. It needs to come off before you can access all of the bolts.
Before you start to remove these bolts, hit really well with PB blaster. You can remove most of the bolts on this side from atop the engine. The lower bolt above the CV joint (not pictured) is easier to get from the wheel well using a swivel socket and extension. The hardest bolt, actually a nut and stud, is circled in blue in the pic, though it's not visible. I used the 14mm flex-head to get this one.
Here is an image from below the car of the 2 lower bolts that can be accessed easier by the wheel well and by removing the CV joint heat shield in blue.
So yeah. That's pretty much it. I was a little overwhelmed by reading a lot of the other writeups, seemed like there was a lot of clutter, so I wanted to share my experience. It's a fairly simple job, just a few bolts that require some creativity, and beer
Here's a link to my
Cheers!
Last edited by hamburger_train; Nov 16, 2013 at 08:24 PM.
#3
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Nice VW btw, I had a 72 orange squareback like 7 years ago. Fun little car!
Last edited by hamburger_train; Nov 17, 2013 at 01:15 PM.
#5
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I'm assuming most people who have attempted this haven't had the same misfortune of removing headers/heads from a 66 F100 FE motor like I have. I think there were 1/2 of the bolts left when I put it back together! Needless to say, I was very cautious doing this.
Last edited by hamburger_train; Nov 18, 2013 at 04:52 AM.
#7
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I was 18 and didn't want to spend the time to keep it running. It kept burning up alternators. Kind of a Frankenstein of a car. Hard to find parts!
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#8
How long did it take to remove the down pipe? I have an ams downpipe that I want to install but have only read the horror stories about removing the stock downpipe
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I would reserve a few hours. Make a world of difference with the passenger wheel off, the extension and swivel socket, and the flex head ratcheting wrench
#14
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