Anybody have the Seibon CF rear diffuser?
#16
Seibon is complete junk. I'm pretty much done with carbon fiber body panels other than lips. Had a Seibon trunk that fit like total crap, hood that yellowed even though i waxed it 2-3 times a month or more. terrible stuff. weave is crap too. for people who say all carbon yellows and turns to crap unless you baby it, i say bullshizzle. my stock IX wing sees wax way less than the hood and trunk did and it's still perfect. the ralliart lips I had were also perfect as far as weave and color fastness go. i just hope the JDP lip i have now holds up.
#17
so...do you go prowl ****** at night or what
you don't need sunlight for oxidation to occur, although UV rays are a catalyst for such effect, as well as heat. i'm not defending the product, as i know first hand their stuff is a hit or miss at times, but end users need to understand how to care for them too. it's just not your run-of-the-mill paint job (it's not even paint). even in shade you need to wash and seal it with wax regularly to prevent oxidation.
i recommend seibon stuff, as long as you know what's involved. meaning it may involve playing around with fitment, and of course regular care.
you don't need sunlight for oxidation to occur, although UV rays are a catalyst for such effect, as well as heat. i'm not defending the product, as i know first hand their stuff is a hit or miss at times, but end users need to understand how to care for them too. it's just not your run-of-the-mill paint job (it's not even paint). even in shade you need to wash and seal it with wax regularly to prevent oxidation.
i recommend seibon stuff, as long as you know what's involved. meaning it may involve playing around with fitment, and of course regular care.
I have no problems with yellowing on mine as of yet, have had the pieces (front bumper, fog light surrounds, fender vents, rear diffuser)for over a year now, but I take good care of it. My brother takes good care of his hood and wing but still they're turning yellow. Fitment is hit and miss. The front bumper replacement fits great, the fog-light surrounds fit great (even thought they took three months to get here), the fender vents one fits great the other side fits like **** (but I made it look perfect), the rear diffuser has its flaws and small fitment issues but it fits perfect now. I knew this while buying this stuff, that's why I haven't bought a hood or anything else large.
#18
#19
I've heard of people having their cf products, regardless of manufacturer, wet sanded and clear coated with a high UV protectant clear coat from their preferred paint shop and that it pretty much solves the yellowing issue. Much more expensive and much more of a hassle than just slapping the piece on and calling it a day, but it would help the peace of mind.
#20
Um yeah, actually someone did. Sleestack, based on personal experience, has an opinion that Seibon > Rexpeed.
I've heard of people having their cf products, regardless of manufacturer, wet sanded and clear coated with a high UV protectant clear coat from their preferred paint shop and that it pretty much solves the yellowing issue. Much more expensive and much more of a hassle than just slapping the piece on and calling it a day, but it would help the peace of mind.
I've heard of people having their cf products, regardless of manufacturer, wet sanded and clear coated with a high UV protectant clear coat from their preferred paint shop and that it pretty much solves the yellowing issue. Much more expensive and much more of a hassle than just slapping the piece on and calling it a day, but it would help the peace of mind.
and if you must know, i have rexpeed items too, and they do fit worse than seibon. material-wise, they're both wet-laid carbon. quality beyond fitment and weight is negligible. like you said, it comes down to a proper seal and slowing down oxidation. a good clear coat is one way to approach it, but if the clear coat is low quality, you'll still get the same result. there are many types of clear coats out there. some can withstand uv rays better than others. waxing it regularly is just another method to the same ends.
Last edited by EndlessRed; Feb 17, 2010 at 01:25 PM.
#21
I will say however, that given what these various pieces cost, I would expect Do-luck to have the most refined product. The products from Seibon and Rexpeed are pretty cheap, so I was pretty happy with the products that were delivered.
I'm wondering if Seibon has improved the manufacturing process on these CF pieces for the Evo X since the X first came out?
Last edited by Sleestack; Feb 17, 2010 at 06:54 PM.
#22
like you said, it comes down to a proper seal and slowing down oxidation. a good clear coat is one way to approach it, but if the clear coat is low quality, you'll still get the same result. there are many types of clear coats out there. some can withstand uv rays better than others. waxing it regularly is just another method to the same ends.
I mean of course if you personally know the guy at the shop or something he's going to give you what you want, but was just wondering if the whole UV protectant clear coat is a commonly known thing in automotive paints...
#23
seibon weave is hit or miss (side note: anyone else make a replacement oem cf diffuser?). any cf part will eventually yellow and discolor if you don't care for it. some manufacturers use better/more uv blockers than others.
wax is a good solution but it's temporary which is why you need to do it every couple weeks or so. i'd recommend a good sealant with uv blockers. they last A LOT longer (months vs weeks) and acrylic based sealants are scratch resistant (within reason of course, if you back into something hard don't expect it to be fine, although i backed into a wooden telephone pole with my sealed bumper and no scratches on the paint FTW).
I use Klasse, it's great stuff (the germans make good stuff!) and on top of that you can wax over it after it cures for that extra shine. 18 hours to cure.
wax is a good solution but it's temporary which is why you need to do it every couple weeks or so. i'd recommend a good sealant with uv blockers. they last A LOT longer (months vs weeks) and acrylic based sealants are scratch resistant (within reason of course, if you back into something hard don't expect it to be fine, although i backed into a wooden telephone pole with my sealed bumper and no scratches on the paint FTW).
I use Klasse, it's great stuff (the germans make good stuff!) and on top of that you can wax over it after it cures for that extra shine. 18 hours to cure.
#24
Factoring the additional costs of a body shop to prep and spray clear coat onto the CF part, makes it an even more expensive thing to do. Even though, Rexpeed and Seibon are "more" affordable than others, they still dont charge pennies either. For the money, these companies should have incorporated a better clear coat from the start..
#26
Remember that CF was not developed to be unfinished. In the racing application it is usually painted. Look at any Indycar, F1 car or the Lemans Prototypes they don't run around with CF components exposed. Or look at production cars with CF, it is rarely unpainted. CF was developed for its strength/weight properties, not durability in the sunlight.
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