plasti dip!
Mar 21, 2013, 02:53 PM
#1
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plasti dip!
Hey this may sound like a stupid question but what is Plasti Dip 
why is it so good?
How do you mix it?
Is it like a paint?
Can someone please post som pics of how its done what it looks like and how to mix it... and some detail on what exactly it is... thanks
why is it so good?
How do you mix it?
Is it like a paint?
Can someone please post som pics of how its done what it looks like and how to mix it... and some detail on what exactly it is... thanks
Mar 21, 2013, 03:14 PM
#2
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https://www.dipyourcar.com/home.php
A bunch of people on the local Az forums talk about this.
I will be doing my rims on my evo, my wifes rims on her benz, and all the plastic crappy, sun blotched parts on our avalanche...
Looks pretty cool.
I am also going to spray on my front bumper for protection.
A bunch of people on the local Az forums talk about this.
I will be doing my rims on my evo, my wifes rims on her benz, and all the plastic crappy, sun blotched parts on our avalanche...
Looks pretty cool.
I am also going to spray on my front bumper for protection.
Mar 21, 2013, 07:06 PM
#3
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A google search will reveal a lot of results. For the actual product go to dipyourcar.com. they offer a myriad of colors and classifiers, metalizers, as well as spray options. Plasti dip is a synthetic rubber spray. Great thing is it peels off very easily if you mess up or just want to remove it without ruining the finish underneath.
If you just want to black out your emblems, you can buy black in a spray can at Lowe's. Dries to a smooth, satin finish if applied correctly (make sure the outsie temps are above 60 degrees or the can is kept warm). Also, the natural lines and breaks in the bodywork will cut your lines for you, so the less taping you do the better the results and the easier it us to get clean lines on whatever it is your spraying.
If you just want to black out your emblems, you can buy black in a spray can at Lowe's. Dries to a smooth, satin finish if applied correctly (make sure the outsie temps are above 60 degrees or the can is kept warm). Also, the natural lines and breaks in the bodywork will cut your lines for you, so the less taping you do the better the results and the easier it us to get clean lines on whatever it is your spraying.
Mar 21, 2013, 08:09 PM
#4
Plastidip is essentially an aerosolized plastic coating. It was, obviously, a dip used to replace worn tool handles. Then it kinda snowballed from there.
The spray can is the most popular. It applies like spraypaint does. It has a flash time of about 5 minutes depending on ambient temperature. It has a recoat time of 3-5. It cannot be sanded.
Spraying it over your existing clearcoat finish for long periods is NOT a good idea. Plasti-dip is NOT approved for that. It is completely airtight and prevents clearcoat ketones from breathing properly, and it will result (especially in time and high height) in yellowing or cracked clearcoat when you remove it later. Good for wheels, yes. Good for roof? Not if you like your paint.
Plastidip is a 1k paint (means one component), and it can be thinned with xylene if you buy it in a liquid form.
The easiest way to remove plasti-dip is to use SEM Solvent #38373. It will literally reduce the plasti-dip to dirty watery stuff and you just wipe it off. You can also use 3M Adhesive remover but it's not as good.
If you'd rather peel it off (its like a fruit rollup in texture and peel), you can use a product called an "eraser wheel" they sell at auto body supply place for ~12 bucks. put it in a low speed drill and it will remove it all and not hurt your paint underneath it. It is literally a big eraser on a wheel and you can also use it to remove old stickers, debadge your stuff, whatever. You absolutely CANNOT hurt your paint with it (unless you burn it)-so knock yourself out.
Mar 21, 2013, 08:11 PM
#5
A google search will reveal a lot of results. For the actual product go to dipyourcar.com. they offer a myriad of colors and classifiers, metalizers, as well as spray options. Plasti dip is a synthetic rubber spray. Great thing is it peels off very easily if you mess up or just want to remove it without ruining the finish underneath.
If you just want to black out your emblems, you can buy black in a spray can at Lowe's. Dries to a smooth, satin finish if applied correctly (make sure the outsie temps are above 60 degrees or the can is kept warm). Also, the natural lines and breaks in the bodywork will cut your lines for you, so the less taping you do the better the results and the easier it us to get clean lines on whatever it is your spraying.
If you just want to black out your emblems, you can buy black in a spray can at Lowe's. Dries to a smooth, satin finish if applied correctly (make sure the outsie temps are above 60 degrees or the can is kept warm). Also, the natural lines and breaks in the bodywork will cut your lines for you, so the less taping you do the better the results and the easier it us to get clean lines on whatever it is your spraying.
and yes, also make sure when you pull your tape off that the plastidip is still within the flash time (5 minutes) or it will peel the plasti off with the tape. If you waited too long and it dried, try applying a fresh coat, wait a few minutes and pull your tape
Mar 22, 2013, 09:41 AM
#6
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I use this stuff constantly in carbon fiber work/repair
Plastidip is essentially an aerosolized plastic coating. It was, obviously, a dip used to replace worn tool handles. Then it kinda snowballed from there.
The spray can is the most popular. It applies like spraypaint does. It has a flash time of about 5 minutes depending on ambient temperature. It has a recoat time of 3-5. It cannot be sanded.
Spraying it over your existing clearcoat finish for long periods is NOT a good idea. Plasti-dip is NOT approved for that. It is completely airtight and prevents clearcoat ketones from breathing properly, and it will result (especially in time and high height) in yellowing or cracked clearcoat when you remove it later. Good for wheels, yes. Good for roof? Not if you like your paint.
Plastidip is a 1k paint (means one component), and it can be thinned with xylene if you buy it in a liquid form.
The easiest way to remove plasti-dip is to use SEM Solvent #38373. It will literally reduce the plasti-dip to dirty watery stuff and you just wipe it off. You can also use 3M Adhesive remover but it's not as good.
If you'd rather peel it off (its like a fruit rollup in texture and peel), you can use a product called an "eraser wheel" they sell at auto body supply place for ~12 bucks. put it in a low speed drill and it will remove it all and not hurt your paint underneath it. It is literally a big eraser on a wheel and you can also use it to remove old stickers, debadge your stuff, whatever. You absolutely CANNOT hurt your paint with it (unless you burn it)-so knock yourself out.
Plastidip is essentially an aerosolized plastic coating. It was, obviously, a dip used to replace worn tool handles. Then it kinda snowballed from there.
The spray can is the most popular. It applies like spraypaint does. It has a flash time of about 5 minutes depending on ambient temperature. It has a recoat time of 3-5. It cannot be sanded.
Spraying it over your existing clearcoat finish for long periods is NOT a good idea. Plasti-dip is NOT approved for that. It is completely airtight and prevents clearcoat ketones from breathing properly, and it will result (especially in time and high height) in yellowing or cracked clearcoat when you remove it later. Good for wheels, yes. Good for roof? Not if you like your paint.
Plastidip is a 1k paint (means one component), and it can be thinned with xylene if you buy it in a liquid form.
The easiest way to remove plasti-dip is to use SEM Solvent #38373. It will literally reduce the plasti-dip to dirty watery stuff and you just wipe it off. You can also use 3M Adhesive remover but it's not as good.
If you'd rather peel it off (its like a fruit rollup in texture and peel), you can use a product called an "eraser wheel" they sell at auto body supply place for ~12 bucks. put it in a low speed drill and it will remove it all and not hurt your paint underneath it. It is literally a big eraser on a wheel and you can also use it to remove old stickers, debadge your stuff, whatever. You absolutely CANNOT hurt your paint with it (unless you burn it)-so knock yourself out.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated...sorry not trying to jack thread.
Mar 22, 2013, 11:50 AM
#7
We are gonna have a carbon repair service too, I do a ton of busted radiator covers and stuff. If it's not too bad, I can just show you how to do it right. Shoot me a PM if you want of a picture of the damage, and I'll show you what to pick up to fix it. It's not stuff you can buy at a store, but its not expensive and only take a week to get.
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