MAP stage 2 brake kit.
#2
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This isn't an objection, but I'm loving my (small) rally brakes from TRF when just daily driving. Less unsprung weight gives you a smoother ride. (Conversely, heavier brakes will hurt the ride.) I can't wait to swap to 16" wheels for more sidewall when just driving around ... along with the ability to cut corners safely. tee hee
#5
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This isn't an objection, but I'm loving my (small) rally brakes from TRF when just daily driving. Less unsprung weight gives you a smoother ride. (Conversely, heavier brakes will hurt the ride.) I can't wait to swap to 16" wheels for more sidewall when just driving around ... along with the ability to cut corners safely. tee hee
#7
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I do not have OE rear brakes any more, Rob. Unlike other vendors, who only have a front kit for 15" wheels, TRF has both front and rear. The bias is shifted a bit to the rear with matching pads at both ends (which I'm loving on dirt and gravel); you need to run slightly more-aggressive front pads in the front for autocross. (Right now I use -20s in the front and -10s in the rear, for example.) But given how simple it is to swap pads with Wilwoods, this adds about 1 minute to the tire-changing process.
Note to drag racers: drops 14 lbs per side in the front and 4 lbs per side in the rear and is still plenty to stop the car from any speed once. Can run some 15" wheels and any 16" wheel with these.
Edit: to be clear, however, these are not road-racing brakes. No where near enough mass in the front rotors. Don't even think about it. These are for street, gravel, autocross, and/or drag-racing. And, yes, the rotors are thick enough for people who left-foot brake when autocrossing.
Here are pics of the front and rear brakes, plus my favorite new pic of the car.
Note to drag racers: drops 14 lbs per side in the front and 4 lbs per side in the rear and is still plenty to stop the car from any speed once. Can run some 15" wheels and any 16" wheel with these.
Edit: to be clear, however, these are not road-racing brakes. No where near enough mass in the front rotors. Don't even think about it. These are for street, gravel, autocross, and/or drag-racing. And, yes, the rotors are thick enough for people who left-foot brake when autocrossing.
Here are pics of the front and rear brakes, plus my favorite new pic of the car.
Last edited by Iowa999; Sep 11, 2012 at 06:41 AM.
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#8
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Edit: to be clear, however, these are not road-racing brakes. No where near enough mass in the front rotors. Don't even think about it. These are for street, gravel, autocross, and/or drag-racing. And, yes, the rotors are thick enough for people who left-foot brake when autocrossing.
Here are pics of the front and rear brakes, plus my favorite new pic of the car.
Here are pics of the front and rear brakes, plus my favorite new pic of the car.
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Yep. They must be able to store the heat and that requires mass. These rally rotors are thick (1.1" in the front and 0.8" in the rear), but being only 11.75" or so in diameter, they just don't have what's sometimes called the "thermal capacity" for road-racing. With that said, if you don't road-race, you've got no good reason to lug huge rotors around, do you?
#11
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I didn't go to an official event, but I set something up that was similar for testing. That's when it became clear to be that I wanted to run the -20 pads in the front, with -10s in the rear. (Luckily, I had several sets of -10s and -20s with me.) When you have grip, the bias needed to be closer to what it is stock. (Rear bias is great for low-grip, since there's less weight transfer, but not good when there is grip, especially if you LFB.) In fact, it might be better with either an even more aggressive pad in front or a slightly larger rotor (which is fine for pavement, because then I'm on 16s, not 15s), but I haven't tested this and might not this year.
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