Evo X Brake Pads for Track Days
Sep 18, 2008, 08:59 AM
#1
Evo X Brake Pads for Track Days
So I've looked for the last couple of days on what I should settle on for upgraded brake pads for a 2 day "High speed driver education" with the PCA at Watkins Glen on Oct 13/14. This road course is known for being hard on the brakes with all the elevation changes but it's extremely rewarding and fun as I've been there 8 times previously! I installed some extra brake ducts for additional cooling as they really helped my Eclipse GSX at the track, but the EBC Red pads I had on that car got eaten up pretty fast. I found this site that lists some decent options, most other vendors have very few Evo X brake pads listed:
http://www.jscspeed.com/evo_x/brakes/evox_pads.htm
So from what I've gathered:
Hawk Blue 9012 - Dedicated Track Pad
Ferodo DS2500 - Light Track Pad < 1000 F
Hawk HP+ - Some Track + Performance Street
Axxis Ultimate - Auto X + Performance Street < 932 F
What other options are out there for a track pad that aren't completely overkill or rotor eating? I don't mind slightly less braking power if it means my rotors won't be trashed in 2 days. Also if the pads can last for both days which is 120-180 min of track time that would be nice as well. I know that the Evo X is on the heavy side so I'm leaning towards the Ferodo DS2500 or Hawk Blue 9012. Do I absolutely need to replace my rear pads as well?
I'm hungry to order these within the next couple days since the event is about 3 weeks away. Those that have tracked their Evo X's please chime in!
http://www.jscspeed.com/evo_x/brakes/evox_pads.htm
So from what I've gathered:
Hawk Blue 9012 - Dedicated Track Pad
Ferodo DS2500 - Light Track Pad < 1000 F
Hawk HP+ - Some Track + Performance Street
Axxis Ultimate - Auto X + Performance Street < 932 F
What other options are out there for a track pad that aren't completely overkill or rotor eating? I don't mind slightly less braking power if it means my rotors won't be trashed in 2 days. Also if the pads can last for both days which is 120-180 min of track time that would be nice as well. I know that the Evo X is on the heavy side so I'm leaning towards the Ferodo DS2500 or Hawk Blue 9012. Do I absolutely need to replace my rear pads as well?
I'm hungry to order these within the next couple days since the event is about 3 weeks away. Those that have tracked their Evo X's please chime in!
Sep 18, 2008, 03:39 PM
#8
As for fluids it appears the Castrol SRF is really good with a high wet boiling point but if you bleed the brakes right shouldn't you only have to worry about the dry boiling points? I guess the $80 a Litre scared me away as well, Motul RBF600 seems to be a good compromise though. How much fluid is needed to do a full flush and bleed on our brakes?
Sep 18, 2008, 04:04 PM
#9
I've tried all of those fluids, RBF600, RBF660, ATE Super Blue and now Castrol SRF. I've only had true success with the Castrol, granted I now have brake ducting. I did run the SRF for a weekend w/o ducting and was very happy, but could still feel the brakes starting to fade near the end of the 20min session.
Everyone drives different, brakes different and had varied success with different combo's. My combo works for me, finally.
Everyone drives different, brakes different and had varied success with different combo's. My combo works for me, finally.
Sep 18, 2008, 04:44 PM
#10
I've tried all of those fluids, RBF600, RBF660, ATE Super Blue and now Castrol SRF. I've only had true success with the Castrol, granted I now have brake ducting. I did run the SRF for a weekend w/o ducting and was very happy, but could still feel the brakes starting to fade near the end of the 20min session.
Everyone drives different, brakes different and had varied success with different combo's. My combo works for me, finally.
Everyone drives different, brakes different and had varied success with different combo's. My combo works for me, finally.
Likely the ducting will tip the scale enough so that I won't have to get the best $80/litre brake fluid since I'm not running in competition, although it's always satisfying to pull away from much more expensive machinery in an Evo on track days.
When exactly does the wet boiling point come into play on these brake fluids? It seems that is what the Castrol SRF has the biggest edge with stat wise.
Sep 18, 2008, 04:48 PM
#11
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It depends how aggressive a pad you want to go with. The better the track pad, the less good it is on the street.
Are things like more brake dust, squealing noises and possible paint damage because of corrosive brake dust (Hawk Blue) an issue for you?
You should pick a pad that works for you..
If 90% of your driving is on the street, get a good high performance street pad that can take some heat (like the DS2500) ...
Go for the all out track pad (like the ST43) if 90% of the time you drive on the race track.
The EBC Reds are not track pads .. more like an aggressive street pad.
Are things like more brake dust, squealing noises and possible paint damage because of corrosive brake dust (Hawk Blue) an issue for you?
You should pick a pad that works for you..
If 90% of your driving is on the street, get a good high performance street pad that can take some heat (like the DS2500) ...
Go for the all out track pad (like the ST43) if 90% of the time you drive on the race track.
The EBC Reds are not track pads .. more like an aggressive street pad.
Sep 18, 2008, 06:36 PM
#12
It depends how aggressive a pad you want to go with. The better the track pad, the less good it is on the street.
Are things like more brake dust, squealing noises and possible paint damage because of corrosive brake dust (Hawk Blue) an issue for you?
You should pick a pad that works for you..
If 90% of your driving is on the street, get a good high performance street pad that can take some heat (like the DS2500) ...
Go for the all out track pad (like the ST43) if 90% of the time you drive on the race track.
The EBC Reds are not track pads .. more like an aggressive street pad.
Are things like more brake dust, squealing noises and possible paint damage because of corrosive brake dust (Hawk Blue) an issue for you?
You should pick a pad that works for you..
If 90% of your driving is on the street, get a good high performance street pad that can take some heat (like the DS2500) ...
Go for the all out track pad (like the ST43) if 90% of the time you drive on the race track.
The EBC Reds are not track pads .. more like an aggressive street pad.
For track use I don't mind the dust or noise, I just want solid braking without worries and to be able to count on them lasting for 2 solid track days in a row. I wouldn't be too excited about paint damaging dust though so the Hawk Blues would be less than ideal. Using a pad to do both isn't a bad option but swapping from street to track and back to street pads for a 2 day event is fine with me.
Sep 18, 2008, 09:50 PM
#13
Brake fluid eventually absorbs water from being in the system over time, the water boils at a much lower temp than the fluid itself. The wet boiling point is the temp that the combo of the fluid/water boils. I personally don't worry too much about the wet boiling point because I flush my system often.
I know with fresh fluid, whether it's RBF600 or Castrol SRF, the performance difference between the two should be negligible...but in my experience and results, I've had better luck with the SRF. That's what Im sticking with.
As far as pads on the street, I've ran the ST-43's with no problems. In fact, other than the noise from the rear pads, I'd say they are great street pads. The "bite" is there and they still stop great even when cold. I did notice they wear faster and are a bit more harsh on rotors on the street, but a set will still last 7-10 events and some street driving. The rear pads will last about twice as long as the front pads, so you won't be replacing all four at once all the time, which is kinda nice
Hope that helped,
Ryan
I know with fresh fluid, whether it's RBF600 or Castrol SRF, the performance difference between the two should be negligible...but in my experience and results, I've had better luck with the SRF. That's what Im sticking with.
As far as pads on the street, I've ran the ST-43's with no problems. In fact, other than the noise from the rear pads, I'd say they are great street pads. The "bite" is there and they still stop great even when cold. I did notice they wear faster and are a bit more harsh on rotors on the street, but a set will still last 7-10 events and some street driving. The rear pads will last about twice as long as the front pads, so you won't be replacing all four at once all the time, which is kinda nice
Hope that helped,
Ryan
Sep 18, 2008, 11:36 PM
#15
Brake fluid eventually absorbs water from being in the system over time, the water boils at a much lower temp than the fluid itself. The wet boiling point is the temp that the combo of the fluid/water boils. I personally don't worry too much about the wet boiling point because I flush my system often.
I know with fresh fluid, whether it's RBF600 or Castrol SRF, the performance difference between the two should be negligible...but in my experience and results, I've had better luck with the SRF. That's what Im sticking with.
As far as pads on the street, I've ran the ST-43's with no problems. In fact, other than the noise from the rear pads, I'd say they are great street pads. The "bite" is there and they still stop great even when cold. I did notice they wear faster and are a bit more harsh on rotors on the street, but a set will still last 7-10 events and some street driving. The rear pads will last about twice as long as the front pads, so you won't be replacing all four at once all the time, which is kinda nice
Hope that helped,
Ryan
I know with fresh fluid, whether it's RBF600 or Castrol SRF, the performance difference between the two should be negligible...but in my experience and results, I've had better luck with the SRF. That's what Im sticking with.
As far as pads on the street, I've ran the ST-43's with no problems. In fact, other than the noise from the rear pads, I'd say they are great street pads. The "bite" is there and they still stop great even when cold. I did notice they wear faster and are a bit more harsh on rotors on the street, but a set will still last 7-10 events and some street driving. The rear pads will last about twice as long as the front pads, so you won't be replacing all four at once all the time, which is kinda nice
Hope that helped,
Ryan
Cool, thanks for the good info!
