Stock Alignment Spec for Evo X???
Sep 26, 2008, 03:03 PM
#2
el-search-o function-o works-o right?
srsly I have posted this a couple times in the last couple weeks.
F: -1-1.5* camber, 0* toe
R: -1-1.5* camber, 0.04* toe
On the fronts if you want more camber, you're gonna have to flip the top bolt on the strut (paint dot away from the strut). Will take you from -1 to -2.
srsly I have posted this a couple times in the last couple weeks.
F: -1-1.5* camber, 0* toe
R: -1-1.5* camber, 0.04* toe
On the fronts if you want more camber, you're gonna have to flip the top bolt on the strut (paint dot away from the strut). Will take you from -1 to -2.
Nov 5, 2008, 06:10 PM
#3
Is the toe on the rear positive toe, as in toe out? I would imagine that this helps the rear end to more willingly change direction. This would mak sense as an understeer preventer, especially in combination with the AYC. Anyway, you are sure about these specs? Also, does anyone know if the AYC has to be calibrated after an alignment? I read a thread somewhere talking about this, but the consensus was unsure. Some dealership told someone that it does, but that seems a little bizzare to me. Anyone know for sure? Thanks.
Last edited by STi2EvoX; Nov 5, 2008 at 06:12 PM.
Nov 5, 2008, 07:43 PM
#5
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This is from Evo X Service Manual
These are the standard values
Front :Toe-in mm (in) 0 ± 2 (0 ± 0.07)
Camber − 1°00’ ± 30’ (Left/right deviation within 30’)
Rear :Toe in mm (in) 3 ± 2 (0.12 ± 0.08)
Camber −1°00' ± 0°30' (Difference between right and left within 0°30')
I dont know about the AYC but the manual says something about ASC
this is also from the service manual
"After performing the front wheel alignment, perform a calibration
for the ASC-ECU to learn the steering wheel sensor neutral point. (Refer to GROUP 35C − On-vehicle Service, Steering Wheel Sensor Calibration P.35C-267.)"
After I got my alignment at GoodYear shop I noticed that my steering wheel was not set at the center when it was going straight. So I brought my car back to the shop and they adjusted the Steering wheel position, it seems ok now.
However with our steering to wheel ratio 13:1, it is so hard to calibrated the steering wheel position EXACTLY on the center of the dash.
These are the standard values
Front :Toe-in mm (in) 0 ± 2 (0 ± 0.07)
Camber − 1°00’ ± 30’ (Left/right deviation within 30’)
Rear :Toe in mm (in) 3 ± 2 (0.12 ± 0.08)
Camber −1°00' ± 0°30' (Difference between right and left within 0°30')
I dont know about the AYC but the manual says something about ASC
this is also from the service manual
"After performing the front wheel alignment, perform a calibration
for the ASC-ECU to learn the steering wheel sensor neutral point. (Refer to GROUP 35C − On-vehicle Service, Steering Wheel Sensor Calibration P.35C-267.)"
After I got my alignment at GoodYear shop I noticed that my steering wheel was not set at the center when it was going straight. So I brought my car back to the shop and they adjusted the Steering wheel position, it seems ok now.
However with our steering to wheel ratio 13:1, it is so hard to calibrated the steering wheel position EXACTLY on the center of the dash.
Nov 5, 2008, 08:38 PM
#7
Thanks! I think that when I get my alignment done I'm going to have then remove the rear toe since it's toe in. Toe in would make the rear less prone to breaking loose, and as great of a job as the AYC does, in the slow sections the X still understeers just a tad. I would tend to think that getting rid of the toe would help this a bit. Thoughts?
Last edited by STi2EvoX; Nov 5, 2008 at 08:42 PM.
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Nov 5, 2008, 09:22 PM
#9
Well, your rear end is a lot more stiff than mine is with the stock suspension, but point taken. Thanks again. I was really enjoying our conversation until I saw that you're an Obama fan. Ewww. 
JK
JK
Last edited by STi2EvoX; Nov 5, 2008 at 09:25 PM.
Nov 5, 2008, 09:43 PM
#10
I know its subtle but my sig, by saying "Comrade Barack" actually expresses my disdain for his socialist tendencies. You did notice that I am in frisco texas, right? We're in one of the more conservative, predominately white counties in Texas. Trust me if I had voted it would not have been for "The Messiah".
Last edited by goofygrin; Nov 6, 2008 at 07:17 AM. Reason: really bad word omission on my phone!
Nov 6, 2008, 08:32 AM
#13
Just had my alignment done. Stock spec is:
Caster = 3.92 to 4.92
F Camber = -1.50 to -0.50
R Camber = -1.50 to -0.50
F Toe = -0.14 to +0.14
R Toe = +0.06 to +0.34
(note: +toe is toe in. - toe is toe out)
If you take the middle values, the following would be a good starting place for the street:
F Camber = -1.00
R Camber = -1.00
F Toe = 0.00
R Toe = +0.28 (this is a bit too much toe IMHO)
A good rule of thumb at least for RWD cars for a street performance alignment spec would be the following:
F Camber = -1.50
R Camber = -1.00
F Toe = +0.03 (1/16" total toe, 1/32" each side)
R Toe = +0.09 (3/16" total toe, 3/32" each side)
An agressive set up would be to have a bit of toe out in the front. I agree with goofygrin's recommended set up for the street for most people.
I flipped the upper front camber bolt and got the following:
FL Camber = -1.82
FR Camber = -1.69
FL Toe = -0.01
FR Toe = 0.00
RL Camber = -1.11
RR Camber = -1.10
RL Toe = 0.04
RR Toe = 0.04
I was pleased the the factory allows this much camber up front stock. I had more to adjust in the rear but left it at -1.1 to see how the car feels with this setting. Next alignment I will dial in 0.02 to 0.04 of toe out in front and 0.00 toe in the rear with -1.5 camber in the rear (and some Cobb, Works, or Hotchkis sway bars 
) and see how that works out.
Caster = 3.92 to 4.92
F Camber = -1.50 to -0.50
R Camber = -1.50 to -0.50
F Toe = -0.14 to +0.14
R Toe = +0.06 to +0.34
(note: +toe is toe in. - toe is toe out)
If you take the middle values, the following would be a good starting place for the street:
F Camber = -1.00
R Camber = -1.00
F Toe = 0.00
R Toe = +0.28 (this is a bit too much toe IMHO)
A good rule of thumb at least for RWD cars for a street performance alignment spec would be the following:
F Camber = -1.50
R Camber = -1.00
F Toe = +0.03 (1/16" total toe, 1/32" each side)
R Toe = +0.09 (3/16" total toe, 3/32" each side)
An agressive set up would be to have a bit of toe out in the front. I agree with goofygrin's recommended set up for the street for most people.
I flipped the upper front camber bolt and got the following:
FL Camber = -1.82
FR Camber = -1.69
FL Toe = -0.01
FR Toe = 0.00
RL Camber = -1.11
RR Camber = -1.10
RL Toe = 0.04
RR Toe = 0.04
I was pleased the the factory allows this much camber up front stock.
I had more to adjust in the rear but left it at -1.1 to see how the car feels with this setting. Next alignment I will dial in 0.02 to 0.04 of toe out in front and 0.00 toe in the rear with -1.5 camber in the rear (and some Cobb, Works, or Hotchkis sway bars ) and see how that works out.
Nov 6, 2008, 10:33 AM
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Just had my alignment done. Stock spec is:
Caster = 3.92 to 4.92
F Camber = -1.50 to -0.50
R Camber = -1.50 to -0.50
F Toe = -0.14 to +0.14
R Toe = +0.06 to +0.34
(note: +toe is toe in. - toe is toe out)
If you take the middle values, the following would be a good starting place for the street:
F Camber = -1.00
R Camber = -1.00
F Toe = 0.00
R Toe = +0.28 (this is a bit too much toe IMHO)
A good rule of thumb at least for RWD cars for a street performance alignment spec would be the following:
F Camber = -1.50
R Camber = -1.00
F Toe = +0.03 (1/16" total toe, 1/32" each side)
R Toe = +0.09 (3/16" total toe, 3/32" each side)
An agressive set up would be to have a bit of toe out in the front. I agree with goofygrin's recommended set up for the street for most people.
I flipped the upper front camber bolt and got the following:
FL Camber = -1.82
FR Camber = -1.69
FL Toe = -0.01
FR Toe = 0.00
RL Camber = -1.11
RR Camber = -1.10
RL Toe = 0.04
RR Toe = 0.04
I was pleased the the factory allows this much camber up front stock. I had more to adjust in the rear but left it at -1.1 to see how the car feels with this setting. Next alignment I will dial in 0.02 to 0.04 of toe out in front and 0.00 toe in the rear with -1.5 camber in the rear (and some Cobb, Works, or Hotchkis sway bars ) and see how that works out.
Caster = 3.92 to 4.92
F Camber = -1.50 to -0.50
R Camber = -1.50 to -0.50
F Toe = -0.14 to +0.14
R Toe = +0.06 to +0.34
(note: +toe is toe in. - toe is toe out)
If you take the middle values, the following would be a good starting place for the street:
F Camber = -1.00
R Camber = -1.00
F Toe = 0.00
R Toe = +0.28 (this is a bit too much toe IMHO)
A good rule of thumb at least for RWD cars for a street performance alignment spec would be the following:
F Camber = -1.50
R Camber = -1.00
F Toe = +0.03 (1/16" total toe, 1/32" each side)
R Toe = +0.09 (3/16" total toe, 3/32" each side)
An agressive set up would be to have a bit of toe out in the front. I agree with goofygrin's recommended set up for the street for most people.
I flipped the upper front camber bolt and got the following:
FL Camber = -1.82
FR Camber = -1.69
FL Toe = -0.01
FR Toe = 0.00
RL Camber = -1.11
RR Camber = -1.10
RL Toe = 0.04
RR Toe = 0.04
I was pleased the the factory allows this much camber up front stock.
I had more to adjust in the rear but left it at -1.1 to see how the car feels with this setting. Next alignment I will dial in 0.02 to 0.04 of toe out in front and 0.00 toe in the rear with -1.5 camber in the rear (and some Cobb, Works, or Hotchkis sway bars ) and see how that works out.A good street setup IMHO would be -2 up front with 0 toe -1.2 to -1.5 with a little toe in on the rear.