What tires to get
Jul 30, 2009, 02:31 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
What tires to get
I recently posted a thread about centering rings and I am now trying to decide about tires.
link for the other thread.
http://forums.dcevoclub.com/showthread.php?t=12563
OK, so I finally got off my a$$ and measured the actual wheel width and tire width with a tape. The stock advans are actually only 8" in width, which means they were already a little stretched on the stock 8.5" wheels. So the idea of mounting them on the new 9.5" wheels get's the Spanish elbow. Besides, I just found a nail in one of the tires, can't believe I rode it so long without any issues.
Now, I was hoping to get a little more understanding from your experiences with other tires. Some of my preferences as follows:
1) Ride comfort takes a back seat to steering response and ultimate grip.
2) Wet weather performance is good to have.
3) What TPMS to go for and how much cost to buy and have them programmed.
4) Don't care too much about speedo error, since my GPS shows my speed anyway.
5) looking for 265 40 18 or 255 40 18 depending on what your suggestions are. I definitely wanna avoid rubbing and fender rolling for now on the stock suspension setup.
Tires I'm looking at in order of preference:
Bridgestone RE-11 (265 40 18 and 101w)
Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3 (Only 255 40 18 comes up online but a local store said 265s are available with a buy 3 get one free offer)
Michelin PS2 (Available to spec, pricey, but don't mind getting them if there's nothing better out there)
Thanks in advance for all your inputs.
link for the other thread.
http://forums.dcevoclub.com/showthread.php?t=12563
OK, so I finally got off my a$$ and measured the actual wheel width and tire width with a tape. The stock advans are actually only 8" in width, which means they were already a little stretched on the stock 8.5" wheels. So the idea of mounting them on the new 9.5" wheels get's the Spanish elbow. Besides, I just found a nail in one of the tires, can't believe I rode it so long without any issues.
Now, I was hoping to get a little more understanding from your experiences with other tires. Some of my preferences as follows:
1) Ride comfort takes a back seat to steering response and ultimate grip.
2) Wet weather performance is good to have.
3) What TPMS to go for and how much cost to buy and have them programmed.
4) Don't care too much about speedo error, since my GPS shows my speed anyway.
5) looking for 265 40 18 or 255 40 18 depending on what your suggestions are. I definitely wanna avoid rubbing and fender rolling for now on the stock suspension setup.
Tires I'm looking at in order of preference:
Bridgestone RE-11 (265 40 18 and 101w)
Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3 (Only 255 40 18 comes up online but a local store said 265s are available with a buy 3 get one free offer)
Michelin PS2 (Available to spec, pricey, but don't mind getting them if there's nothing better out there)
Thanks in advance for all your inputs.
Jul 30, 2009, 03:37 PM
#2
Wheel / tire size calculator / comparer - WHEELSMASTER
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
Should help you out with the wheel and tire dimensions.
http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp
Should help you out with the wheel and tire dimensions.
Jul 30, 2009, 03:48 PM
#3
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I've used PS2s before and loved them. They're an extremely comfortable tire, have a very progressive feel with traction, and perform very well. They don't wear well however and they are, as you mentioned, expensive.
Jul 30, 2009, 04:22 PM
#5
First, both those tire sizes suck. They are both taller than stock so they will BOTH negatively impact the performance of your car by decreasing the effective gearing. You'll gain top end at the expense of low end power.
You want either 265/35/18 or 275/35/18. Without rolling (which you're going to have to do anyway eventually, you know you want to) you're likely going 265/35/18. And you don't mention the offset of the wheels you're getting... so that will be helpful too.
The only tire I'd consider in the ones you posted are the RE-11s.
Here's the short list. Anything outside this list is questionable if your goal is grip:
Yoko AD08 (runs wide)
Dunlop Star Spec (runs wide)
Nitto NT-05 (runs narrow/true)
RE-11 (runs narrow/true)
I've run two out of these 4 and been beaten by people on the other two :P. The Star Spec is better around town and for looks since it runs wide and just looks meaner. It also is a bit more forgiving because of the softer sidewall. The NT-05 really came alive on the track (road course) and REALLY was VERY sharp on turn in (enough to make my instructor have to change how he instructed) and was super predictable when pushed and drifted. I was amazed with how well they performed (and these weren't sticker tires either, but 6-7000 mile tires). They did chunk a bit because of their blocky design. I've had the star specs and nt05s on the track and I'll take the skinnier NT05s on the track any day. I think I prefer the star spec for autocross though. Of course, Hoosier A6's are better than either for either purpose
Maybe:
Kuhmo XS
These all provide phenomenal dry traction and good enough wet traction (of course a "wet" designed tire will provide more, but at the expense of dry traction).
RE: TPMS, just move the ones from your current wheels to the new wheels. You can't have the car married to two sets of TPMS, so it makes no sense to leave them in the stock wheels (which I assume you're going to use for winter tires or something).
You want either 265/35/18 or 275/35/18. Without rolling (which you're going to have to do anyway eventually, you know you want to) you're likely going 265/35/18. And you don't mention the offset of the wheels you're getting... so that will be helpful too.
The only tire I'd consider in the ones you posted are the RE-11s.
Here's the short list. Anything outside this list is questionable if your goal is grip:
Yoko AD08 (runs wide)
Dunlop Star Spec (runs wide)
Nitto NT-05 (runs narrow/true)
RE-11 (runs narrow/true)
I've run two out of these 4 and been beaten by people on the other two :P. The Star Spec is better around town and for looks since it runs wide and just looks meaner. It also is a bit more forgiving because of the softer sidewall. The NT-05 really came alive on the track (road course) and REALLY was VERY sharp on turn in (enough to make my instructor have to change how he instructed) and was super predictable when pushed and drifted. I was amazed with how well they performed (and these weren't sticker tires either, but 6-7000 mile tires). They did chunk a bit because of their blocky design. I've had the star specs and nt05s on the track and I'll take the skinnier NT05s on the track any day. I think I prefer the star spec for autocross though. Of course, Hoosier A6's are better than either for either purpose
Maybe:
Kuhmo XS
These all provide phenomenal dry traction and good enough wet traction (of course a "wet" designed tire will provide more, but at the expense of dry traction).
RE: TPMS, just move the ones from your current wheels to the new wheels. You can't have the car married to two sets of TPMS, so it makes no sense to leave them in the stock wheels (which I assume you're going to use for winter tires or something).
Last edited by goofygrin; Jul 30, 2009 at 04:27 PM. Reason: expanded my thoughts on the tires to get
Jul 30, 2009, 04:23 PM
#6
The issue with the R1R is that it's sidewall sucks. It's floppy and squirmy and just doesn't provide all that great a feel for the big heavy Evo. I like toyo tires, but they are not "crisp" in my opinion. And in the cold and/or rain they are terrible.
Jul 30, 2009, 04:38 PM
#7
The R1R is a special rain tires from Toyo with R compound.
They sure not for cold thought.
I did not find any problem with the side wall neither.
I run these tires out of they element with no wheel alignment and stock suspension in International Rally New York in the spring . And i finished in the Super production class in third place. /one step below unlimited in rally/ 9th overall.
here is the condition i was running:
here is how the tire looks like:
Last edited by Robevo RS; Jul 30, 2009 at 05:28 PM.
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Jul 30, 2009, 04:49 PM
#9
Yeah i know i had problems with these code names too
the T1R is more like a street tire. This one is more like competition .
Here is a good review from the guy who speaks much better english then i do .:
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1093
the T1R is more like a street tire. This one is more like competition .
Here is a good review from the guy who speaks much better english then i do .:
http://www.trackhq.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1093
Jul 30, 2009, 05:24 PM
#10
Well, one of the side effects of grippy tires combined with aggressive driving is that you get to buy tires more often. So, even if you are not completely happy with the current set soon enough you will get the opportunity to try something else. My next set is going to be the Kumho XS. Have you seen the Car and Driver test I posted here?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tire-test.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tire-test.html
Jul 30, 2009, 06:25 PM
#12
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
First, both those tire sizes suck. They are both taller than stock so they will BOTH negatively impact the performance of your car by decreasing the effective gearing. You'll gain top end at the expense of low end power.
You want either 265/35/18 or 275/35/18. Without rolling (which you're going to have to do anyway eventually, you know you want to) you're likely going 265/35/18. And you don't mention the offset of the wheels you're getting... so that will be helpful too.
The only tire I'd consider in the ones you posted are the RE-11s.
Here's the short list. Anything outside this list is questionable if your goal is grip:
Yoko AD08 (runs wide)
Dunlop Star Spec (runs wide)
Nitto NT-05 (runs narrow/true)
RE-11 (runs narrow/true)
I've run two out of these 4 and been beaten by people on the other two :P. The Star Spec is better around town and for looks since it runs wide and just looks meaner. It also is a bit more forgiving because of the softer sidewall. The NT-05 really came alive on the track (road course) and REALLY was VERY sharp on turn in (enough to make my instructor have to change how he instructed) and was super predictable when pushed and drifted. I was amazed with how well they performed (and these weren't sticker tires either, but 6-7000 mile tires). They did chunk a bit because of their blocky design. I've had the star specs and nt05s on the track and I'll take the skinnier NT05s on the track any day. I think I prefer the star spec for autocross though. Of course, Hoosier A6's are better than either for either purpose
Maybe:
Kuhmo XS
These all provide phenomenal dry traction and good enough wet traction (of course a "wet" designed tire will provide more, but at the expense of dry traction).
RE: TPMS, just move the ones from your current wheels to the new wheels. You can't have the car married to two sets of TPMS, so it makes no sense to leave them in the stock wheels (which I assume you're going to use for winter tires or something).
You want either 265/35/18 or 275/35/18. Without rolling (which you're going to have to do anyway eventually, you know you want to) you're likely going 265/35/18. And you don't mention the offset of the wheels you're getting... so that will be helpful too.
The only tire I'd consider in the ones you posted are the RE-11s.
Here's the short list. Anything outside this list is questionable if your goal is grip:
Yoko AD08 (runs wide)
Dunlop Star Spec (runs wide)
Nitto NT-05 (runs narrow/true)
RE-11 (runs narrow/true)
I've run two out of these 4 and been beaten by people on the other two :P. The Star Spec is better around town and for looks since it runs wide and just looks meaner. It also is a bit more forgiving because of the softer sidewall. The NT-05 really came alive on the track (road course) and REALLY was VERY sharp on turn in (enough to make my instructor have to change how he instructed) and was super predictable when pushed and drifted. I was amazed with how well they performed (and these weren't sticker tires either, but 6-7000 mile tires). They did chunk a bit because of their blocky design. I've had the star specs and nt05s on the track and I'll take the skinnier NT05s on the track any day. I think I prefer the star spec for autocross though. Of course, Hoosier A6's are better than either for either purpose
Maybe:
Kuhmo XS
These all provide phenomenal dry traction and good enough wet traction (of course a "wet" designed tire will provide more, but at the expense of dry traction).
RE: TPMS, just move the ones from your current wheels to the new wheels. You can't have the car married to two sets of TPMS, so it makes no sense to leave them in the stock wheels (which I assume you're going to use for winter tires or something).
I know we cannot marry two sets of TPMS sensors to the vehicle simultaneously, but my stock wheels already have winter tires on them and I don't wanna open them up for the TPMS sensors. I just plan on getting a second set and program them to the car twice a year. This is however dependent on the cost. If its too expensive, I wont even bother getting the TPMS sensors. I'll just drive around with the tpms warning up. I'm not too picky about it.
As for the bigger diameter, the 265 40 18's would be 8 mm taller over all, ie, a 4mm increase in the radius. Would such a small difference really hamper performance? I ask out of curiosity.
Last edited by CatalystGod; Jul 30, 2009 at 06:28 PM.
Jul 30, 2009, 07:33 PM
#13
It's not the radius that's important, it's the circumference.
Let's just say when I go to my 285/30/18s vs the stock 245/40/18's the difference is VERY noticeable.
The bigger issue with going to the taller tire is you're going to rub, rub, rub all the live long day. Mostly on the fender wells in front of and behind the tire up front.
Let's just say when I go to my 285/30/18s vs the stock 245/40/18's the difference is VERY noticeable.
The bigger issue with going to the taller tire is you're going to rub, rub, rub all the live long day. Mostly on the fender wells in front of and behind the tire up front.
Jul 30, 2009, 08:35 PM
#14
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...sets-left.html
These are pretty good tires at an awsome price.
These are pretty good tires at an awsome price.
Jul 31, 2009, 09:31 AM
#15
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
It's not the radius that's important, it's the circumference.
Let's just say when I go to my 285/30/18s vs the stock 245/40/18's the difference is VERY noticeable.
The bigger issue with going to the taller tire is you're going to rub, rub, rub all the live long day. Mostly on the fender wells in front of and behind the tire up front.
Let's just say when I go to my 285/30/18s vs the stock 245/40/18's the difference is VERY noticeable.
The bigger issue with going to the taller tire is you're going to rub, rub, rub all the live long day. Mostly on the fender wells in front of and behind the tire up front.
Stock diameter = 555.2 mm
on a 265 40 18, diameter increases by 8 mm
Circumference is directly proportional to increase in diameter or radius (2*pi*r or pi*d)
Percentage increase in circumference = (8X100)/555.2 = 1.44%
on a 255 40 18, percentage increase is only half of that = 0.72%
So, my question is, is this small difference really that noticeable?
As for the fender rubbing, one should only consider the increase in radius, which is 4 mm for a 265 and 2 mm for a 255. I did not think the tolerances on the stock setup were that close to the limit, are they?