Are your brakes getting too hot at the track? Have $30 and an hour?
Dec 23, 2009, 05:06 PM
#17
What type of brake fluid are you running? If you are running stock, I would first suggesting just swapping that out for some ATE Typ 200 or Super Blue (I can't remember if both are made - one might be discontinued, but they are the same fluid, just different colors for easier bleeding when alternating use of each).
This will take care of a lot of boiling issues. The other suggestion is to really work on braking and driving mechanics. I've seen a huge temperature difference compared to my own driving and someone who was much more experienced.
Just some other ideas. Very neat modification if the above don't work for you, or you want some Porsche bling
This will take care of a lot of boiling issues. The other suggestion is to really work on braking and driving mechanics. I've seen a huge temperature difference compared to my own driving and someone who was much more experienced.
Just some other ideas. Very neat modification if the above don't work for you, or you want some Porsche bling
But I do agree with you that the way I brake now is different and is playing a factor in how my brakes are working.
In fact I'm braking harder and later, but my brakes aren't nearly as hot and I'm using significantly less pad than when I started. I bought a used set of Hawk HT10's and have 4-5 days on them and they still are good for a couple more days.
Dec 27, 2009, 04:52 AM
#18
U boiled Motul 600 and Amsoil?
Can you tell a bit more on your driving style and session lenght? Most people can't boil the stock fluid and the vast majority can't boil anything that u did. And how are you still alive if you boiled ur brake fluid 3 times?
Can you tell a bit more on your driving style and session lenght? Most people can't boil the stock fluid and the vast majority can't boil anything that u did. And how are you still alive if you boiled ur brake fluid 3 times?
Dec 27, 2009, 07:36 AM
#19
Sessions are 20-25 minutes.
I boiled the Motul autocrossing, not tracking. 90+ second course and we were doing fun runs, so hotlapping, and it boiled after 2 hotlaps. Ferodo DS2500 brake pads.
The amsoil I boiled at Hallett (all the braking zones are downhill). It was 106*+ ambient (so imagine how hot it was on the track surface). I was on r-comps one day (corded) and street tires the next. My calipers are now black from this weekend. Hawk HT-10 brake pads.
I boiled the Motul autocrossing, not tracking. 90+ second course and we were doing fun runs, so hotlapping, and it boiled after 2 hotlaps. Ferodo DS2500 brake pads.
The amsoil I boiled at Hallett (all the braking zones are downhill). It was 106*+ ambient (so imagine how hot it was on the track surface). I was on r-comps one day (corded) and street tires the next. My calipers are now black from this weekend. Hawk HT-10 brake pads.
Dec 27, 2009, 11:05 AM
#20
So you say you aren't considered a Sunday driver? 
I've also experimented with larger scoops that I attached to the Mitsu brake guides and found it helped a bit but still wasn't quite enough cooling. Likely if I went a little larger similar to the Porsche ones it would be good enough. My latest setup is using the undercar scoops plus 3" ducts guiding air from either side of the FMIC to the back of the rotor. I didn't use a metal adapter nozzle to force the air through the rotor but having both the scoops and 3" duct combo seems to be plenty of air for how I drive.
I've also experimented with larger scoops that I attached to the Mitsu brake guides and found it helped a bit but still wasn't quite enough cooling. Likely if I went a little larger similar to the Porsche ones it would be good enough. My latest setup is using the undercar scoops plus 3" ducts guiding air from either side of the FMIC to the back of the rotor. I didn't use a metal adapter nozzle to force the air through the rotor but having both the scoops and 3" duct combo seems to be plenty of air for how I drive.
Jan 3, 2010, 07:01 AM
#26
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goofy, judging from the stress you are causing to your brake fluid, it would be wise to monitor the condition of your front rotor hubs.
a few Xs here already have the misfortune of their front rotor hub breaking off under extreme braking in track.
if you're already on an aftermarket solution, you have nothing to worry about. just a headsup. :P
a few Xs here already have the misfortune of their front rotor hub breaking off under extreme braking in track.
if you're already on an aftermarket solution, you have nothing to worry about. just a headsup. :P
Jan 3, 2010, 10:46 AM
#27
Goofy, I would also consider rebuilding your calipers. The piston boots may be shot already due to the excessive heat.
One downside to not having the heatshield is the possibility of damaging the ABS sensor or something. That was the case on the 8/9 at least. Easy solution is just to do a good cool-down before parking.
One downside to not having the heatshield is the possibility of damaging the ABS sensor or something. That was the case on the 8/9 at least. Easy solution is just to do a good cool-down before parking.
Jan 3, 2010, 12:16 PM
#29
Goofy, I would also consider rebuilding your calipers. The piston boots may be shot already due to the excessive heat.
One downside to not having the heatshield is the possibility of damaging the ABS sensor or something. That was the case on the 8/9 at least. Easy solution is just to do a good cool-down before parking.
One downside to not having the heatshield is the possibility of damaging the ABS sensor or something. That was the case on the 8/9 at least. Easy solution is just to do a good cool-down before parking.
