Please help with choosing r-comp tires and track wheels
Apr 1, 2010, 01:20 AM
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Please help with choosing r-comp tires and track wheels
I am looking for a good wheel/tire combo for 75% autox and 25% hpde. After a lot of research between the v710, r6, ra-1, and nt-01, I am leaning towards the BFG R1 but I can't figure out what size to get and as a result, what size (or brand of) wheel to get. After reading this forum for the last 2 days, I can't seem to get any clear answers on what will fit and what won't without rubbing. I want to avoid rubbing or having to roll my fenders. What are my options? Right now the height is stock but it might be lowered in the future. The alignment will remain stock.
With the R1, I can go 245/40/18 (width = 9.8"), 265/35/18 (width = 10.7"), or 275/35/18 (width = 10.9"). If I go with the 245, I can get a wheel close to stock width and offset and I am sure I will be fine, but I was hoping to go a little wider. Does anybody know of a 9.5" or 10" wheel that will work with the 275 or a 9" or 9.5" wheel that will work with the 265? For the wheels, I want to be as light as possible (preferably under 20 lbs), as cheap as possible (preferably under $1400), and matte black (but that is not a deal-beaker) . A lot of people here seem to like the RPF1 and NT03M wheels but neither seem to have the proper offset. I am open to other brands like OZ, Team Dynamics, Rota, etc. but I can't seem to find anything in what I would guess to be the right offset or any specific set with r-comps that I could find confirmation on multiple people having been able to run without rubbing/rolling.
With the R1, I can go 245/40/18 (width = 9.8"), 265/35/18 (width = 10.7"), or 275/35/18 (width = 10.9"). If I go with the 245, I can get a wheel close to stock width and offset and I am sure I will be fine, but I was hoping to go a little wider. Does anybody know of a 9.5" or 10" wheel that will work with the 275 or a 9" or 9.5" wheel that will work with the 265? For the wheels, I want to be as light as possible (preferably under 20 lbs), as cheap as possible (preferably under $1400), and matte black (but that is not a deal-beaker) . A lot of people here seem to like the RPF1 and NT03M wheels but neither seem to have the proper offset. I am open to other brands like OZ, Team Dynamics, Rota, etc. but I can't seem to find anything in what I would guess to be the right offset or any specific set with r-comps that I could find confirmation on multiple people having been able to run without rubbing/rolling.
Apr 1, 2010, 07:30 AM
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what i can assure you is, whatever tire u get make sure your alignment is not stock.... u'll waste the tire.. Alignment is the one of the biggest handling improvements and tire saver when ran hard
Apr 1, 2010, 08:00 AM
#4
The most important question yet.
If you're going for BS, then your wheels are limited to the stock width with a little bit of wiggle room for offset.
This.
If you were to run Hoosier A6's on the stock alignment you'd be lucky to get 20 hard runs on them.
You want at least -3* of camber up front before you start thinking r-comps honestly. Plus the car is a ballistic understeer pig with the stock alignment.
And... you HAVE to roll your fenders. Almost all rcomps run wide, so a 265 is going to rub most likely (especially with the stock alignment).
An R1 is going to suck for autocross. You rarely will get the tires warm enough to do any good. You want Hoosier A6's or Kumho v710's for autocross.
For the track you want, R1, RA1, NT01, v710, R6, A6 (if you're made of money), R888.
You can paint RPF1's matte black... They are cheap, light and the offset (protip, get +15 and roll your fenders) isn't that bad.
If you're going for BS, then your wheels are limited to the stock width with a little bit of wiggle room for offset.
If you were to run Hoosier A6's on the stock alignment you'd be lucky to get 20 hard runs on them.
You want at least -3* of camber up front before you start thinking r-comps honestly. Plus the car is a ballistic understeer pig with the stock alignment.
And... you HAVE to roll your fenders. Almost all rcomps run wide, so a 265 is going to rub most likely (especially with the stock alignment).
An R1 is going to suck for autocross. You rarely will get the tires warm enough to do any good. You want Hoosier A6's or Kumho v710's for autocross.
For the track you want, R1, RA1, NT01, v710, R6, A6 (if you're made of money), R888.
You can paint RPF1's matte black... They are cheap, light and the offset (protip, get +15 and roll your fenders) isn't that bad.
Apr 1, 2010, 08:23 AM
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No. I will probably eventually be BSP, although I don't have the mods for it yet.
Sorry, I just meant that I will probably try to stay conservative since it will still be a dd with the stock wheels/tires.
I am trying to find the best tire for both. I realize that I will have to sacrifice (either the 1st few runs at autox or the last few laps of hpde). I was originally thinking about the V710 but I hear that they barely last a full day of hpde and then I heard the R1 really isn't that bad at autox (or at least that it is better than the RA1, NT01, and R6).
There are a lot of people on here who claim that they can fit 265 and 275 with no rubbing/rolling, so I had hope because I really don't want to roll the fenders, but like I said, there are a lot of conflicting claims.
Even though it is an r-comp, the 245 is actually 0.1" narrower and 0.2" smaller than the oem tire, so I am guessing that I can always go to that without rolling, but I had been hoping to go wider especially since the R1 seems to run smaller than the NT01 and RA1.
As for the +15 RPF1, it seemed like for every person who said it fit properly, there were 2 who claimed rubbing (at least with the 18x9.5).
The most important question yet.
If you're going for BS, then your wheels are limited to the stock width with a little bit of wiggle room for offset.
This.
If you were to run Hoosier A6's on the stock alignment you'd be lucky to get 20 hard runs on them.
You want at least -3* of camber up front before you start thinking r-comps honestly. Plus the car is a ballistic understeer pig with the stock alignment.
And... you HAVE to roll your fenders. Almost all rcomps run wide, so a 265 is going to rub most likely (especially with the stock alignment).
An R1 is going to suck for autocross. You rarely will get the tires warm enough to do any good. You want Hoosier A6's or Kumho v710's for autocross.
For the track you want, R1, RA1, NT01, v710, R6, A6 (if you're made of money), R888.
You can paint RPF1's matte black... They are cheap, light and the offset (protip, get +15 and roll your fenders) isn't that bad.
If you're going for BS, then your wheels are limited to the stock width with a little bit of wiggle room for offset.
This.
If you were to run Hoosier A6's on the stock alignment you'd be lucky to get 20 hard runs on them.
You want at least -3* of camber up front before you start thinking r-comps honestly. Plus the car is a ballistic understeer pig with the stock alignment.
And... you HAVE to roll your fenders. Almost all rcomps run wide, so a 265 is going to rub most likely (especially with the stock alignment).
An R1 is going to suck for autocross. You rarely will get the tires warm enough to do any good. You want Hoosier A6's or Kumho v710's for autocross.
For the track you want, R1, RA1, NT01, v710, R6, A6 (if you're made of money), R888.
You can paint RPF1's matte black... They are cheap, light and the offset (protip, get +15 and roll your fenders) isn't that bad.
There are a lot of people on here who claim that they can fit 265 and 275 with no rubbing/rolling, so I had hope because I really don't want to roll the fenders, but like I said, there are a lot of conflicting claims.
Even though it is an r-comp, the 245 is actually 0.1" narrower and 0.2" smaller than the oem tire, so I am guessing that I can always go to that without rolling, but I had been hoping to go wider especially since the R1 seems to run smaller than the NT01 and RA1.
As for the +15 RPF1, it seemed like for every person who said it fit properly, there were 2 who claimed rubbing (at least with the 18x9.5).
Apr 1, 2010, 01:58 PM
#7
Don't trust published specs... Trust reality.
While I've not played with the R1, Hoosiers are WIDE. A 285 A6 was easily 20mm wider than a 275 RA-1.
For a competitive at more than the local level in BSP you need to try and stuff 285/30/18's under there. This means you will have to roll the fenders and potentially pull them. Just man up and do it
And +15's rub if you don't roll... people that say they don't are running a ton of camber (or lying/don't know what rubbing is).
While I've not played with the R1, Hoosiers are WIDE. A 285 A6 was easily 20mm wider than a 275 RA-1.
For a competitive at more than the local level in BSP you need to try and stuff 285/30/18's under there. This means you will have to roll the fenders and potentially pull them. Just man up and do it
And +15's rub if you don't roll... people that say they don't are running a ton of camber (or lying/don't know what rubbing is).
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Apr 1, 2010, 03:48 PM
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Don't trust published specs... Trust reality.
While I've not played with the R1, Hoosiers are WIDE. A 285 A6 was easily 20mm wider than a 275 RA-1.
For a competitive at more than the local level in BSP you need to try and stuff 285/30/18's under there. This means you will have to roll the fenders and potentially pull them. Just man up and do it
And +15's rub if you don't roll... people that say they don't are running a ton of camber (or lying/don't know what rubbing is).
While I've not played with the R1, Hoosiers are WIDE. A 285 A6 was easily 20mm wider than a 275 RA-1.
For a competitive at more than the local level in BSP you need to try and stuff 285/30/18's under there. This means you will have to roll the fenders and potentially pull them. Just man up and do it
And +15's rub if you don't roll... people that say they don't are running a ton of camber (or lying/don't know what rubbing is).
Apr 1, 2010, 09:01 PM
#9
Don't trust published specs... Trust reality.
While I've not played with the R1, Hoosiers are WIDE. A 285 A6 was easily 20mm wider than a 275 RA-1.
For a competitive at more than the local level in BSP you need to try and stuff 285/30/18's under there. This means you will have to roll the fenders and potentially pull them. Just man up and do it
And +15's rub if you don't roll... people that say they don't are running a ton of camber (or lying/don't know what rubbing is).
While I've not played with the R1, Hoosiers are WIDE. A 285 A6 was easily 20mm wider than a 275 RA-1.
For a competitive at more than the local level in BSP you need to try and stuff 285/30/18's under there. This means you will have to roll the fenders and potentially pull them. Just man up and do it
And +15's rub if you don't roll... people that say they don't are running a ton of camber (or lying/don't know what rubbing is).
Apr 3, 2010, 12:26 PM
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i got a great deal on barely used r1's from a race prep shop. i wish i would've held on to the other 2 sets i got for friends now that the shop no longer uses that size. i have em mounted on stock GSR enkei wheels. yes kind of heavy but i dont wanna **** up my BBS wheels. you can find a good set for $500-$600. unless you're running for nationals, a bit extra rotational mass wont hurt, and at HPDEs, youre just having fun.
Apr 3, 2010, 07:38 PM
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i got a great deal on barely used r1's from a race prep shop. i wish i would've held on to the other 2 sets i got for friends now that the shop no longer uses that size. i have em mounted on stock GSR enkei wheels. yes kind of heavy but i dont wanna **** up my BBS wheels. you can find a good set for $500-$600. unless you're running for nationals, a bit extra rotational mass wont hurt, and at HPDEs, youre just having fun.
Apr 3, 2010, 10:50 PM
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OK. I decided to try something different, so I made a chart of all the wheels I am considering. I would be very thankful it people who have tried these could respond with whether they fit (without rolling) or not.
245/40/18
18x8.5 +30 (Buddy Club P1 Racing SF Wheel)
18x8.5 +30 (Enkei RS+M)
18x8.5 +30 (Enkei RPF1)
18x8.5 +30 (Enkei PF01)
18x8.5 +35 (Enkei RS+M)
18x8.5 +38 (Enkei NT03+M)
18x9.0 +20 (TD Pro Race 1.2)
18x9.0 +30 (TD Pro Race 1.2)
18x9.0 +30 (Buddy Club P1 Racing SF Wheel)
18x9.0 +35 (Enkei PF01)
18x9.0 +35 (Enkei RC-T4)
265/35/18
18x9.5 +27 (Enkei NT03+M)
18x9.5 +25 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +25 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +28 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +30 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +35 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +35 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +35 (Enkei PF01)
18x9.5 +38 (Enkei RPF1)
18x10.0 +35 (Rota Boost)
18x10.0 +38 (Enkei RPF1)
275/35/18
18x9.5 +27 (Enkei NT03+M)
18x9.5 +25 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +25 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +28 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +30 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +35 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +35 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +35 (Enkei PF01)
18x9.5 +38 (Enkei RPF1)
18x10.0 +35 (Rota Boost)
18x10.0 +38 (Enkei RPF1)
18x10.5 +30 (Enkei NT03+M)
18x10.5 +38 (Enkei PF01)
245/40/18
18x8.5 +30 (Buddy Club P1 Racing SF Wheel)
18x8.5 +30 (Enkei RS+M)
18x8.5 +30 (Enkei RPF1)
18x8.5 +30 (Enkei PF01)
18x8.5 +35 (Enkei RS+M)
18x8.5 +38 (Enkei NT03+M)
18x9.0 +20 (TD Pro Race 1.2)
18x9.0 +30 (TD Pro Race 1.2)
18x9.0 +30 (Buddy Club P1 Racing SF Wheel)
18x9.0 +35 (Enkei PF01)
18x9.0 +35 (Enkei RC-T4)
265/35/18
18x9.5 +27 (Enkei NT03+M)
18x9.5 +25 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +25 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +28 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +30 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +35 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +35 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +35 (Enkei PF01)
18x9.5 +38 (Enkei RPF1)
18x10.0 +35 (Rota Boost)
18x10.0 +38 (Enkei RPF1)
275/35/18
18x9.5 +27 (Enkei NT03+M)
18x9.5 +25 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +25 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +28 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +30 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +35 (Rota P-45R)
18x9.5 +35 (Rota Torque)
18x9.5 +35 (Enkei PF01)
18x9.5 +38 (Enkei RPF1)
18x10.0 +35 (Rota Boost)
18x10.0 +38 (Enkei RPF1)
18x10.5 +30 (Enkei NT03+M)
18x10.5 +38 (Enkei PF01)