doing some track days this year, should i flush the clutch when i flush the brakes?
Apr 28, 2010, 10:11 AM
#1
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doing some track days this year, should i flush the clutch when i flush the brakes?
As the title states, i'm going to be doing several track days this year. I'm planning on flushing the stock fluid out of the brakes and replacing it with ATE Super Blue. I was thinking that i should flush the clutch at the same time because i believe that the clutch and brakes share a reservoir. If i need to bleed the clutch as well, where is the bleeder screw? thanks a lot guys
Apr 28, 2010, 10:49 AM
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Well yes, since it shares the same fluid you want to flush both out, Think of it as insurance that you wont have old fluid mixing in with your brand new, better fluid.
Apr 28, 2010, 08:46 PM
#3
short answer - Yes
long answer - Yes the stock fluid isn't very good and since its basically the same system for both clutch and brake you might as well do it...
the bleeder screw is ontop of the transmission, so you need to remove the airbox to get access to it...
You *may* also want to remove the restrictor pill, I found (at least with the stock fluid) that the restrictor pill adds a lot of uncertainty into pedal feel - ie sometimes it wouldn't need much clutch-out to engage, othertimes it needed almost full pedal travel...
now with the pill removed its much more stable and consistant
long answer - Yes the stock fluid isn't very good and since its basically the same system for both clutch and brake you might as well do it...
the bleeder screw is ontop of the transmission, so you need to remove the airbox to get access to it...
You *may* also want to remove the restrictor pill, I found (at least with the stock fluid) that the restrictor pill adds a lot of uncertainty into pedal feel - ie sometimes it wouldn't need much clutch-out to engage, othertimes it needed almost full pedal travel...
now with the pill removed its much more stable and consistant
Apr 28, 2010, 09:04 PM
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short answer - Yes
long answer - Yes the stock fluid isn't very good and since its basically the same system for both clutch and brake you might as well do it...
the bleeder screw is ontop of the transmission, so you need to remove the airbox to get access to it...
You *may* also want to remove the restrictor pill, I found (at least with the stock fluid) that the restrictor pill adds a lot of uncertainty into pedal feel - ie sometimes it wouldn't need much clutch-out to engage, othertimes it needed almost full pedal travel...
now with the pill removed its much more stable and consistant
long answer - Yes the stock fluid isn't very good and since its basically the same system for both clutch and brake you might as well do it...
the bleeder screw is ontop of the transmission, so you need to remove the airbox to get access to it...
You *may* also want to remove the restrictor pill, I found (at least with the stock fluid) that the restrictor pill adds a lot of uncertainty into pedal feel - ie sometimes it wouldn't need much clutch-out to engage, othertimes it needed almost full pedal travel...
now with the pill removed its much more stable and consistant
Apr 28, 2010, 09:07 PM
#5
depends if by clutch delay valve you mean the restrictor-pill 
hehe
it's a bit of plastic + spring in the slave clutch cylinder assy...
from https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-pill-out.html
heheit's a bit of plastic + spring in the slave clutch cylinder assy...
from https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-pill-out.html
Apr 28, 2010, 09:21 PM
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depends if by clutch delay valve you mean the restrictor-pill hehe
it's a bit of plastic + spring in the slave clutch cylinder assy...
from https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-pill-out.html
heheit's a bit of plastic + spring in the slave clutch cylinder assy...
from https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-pill-out.html
Apr 28, 2010, 09:27 PM
#7
Again from that thread:
This is what you need to remove, its two parts, 1 plastic thingy with a hole in the middle, and a spring...
So yeah remove the banjo bolt circled in red, pull out the plastic thingy + spring and then refit the banjo bolt (including BOTH copper washers)
To get the plastic thingy I used a piece of thin wire with a slight hook, you can get it through the hole in the plastic thingy then turn then pull!
Finally bleed the clutch line like normal!
Have fun!
This is what you need to remove, its two parts, 1 plastic thingy with a hole in the middle, and a spring...
So yeah remove the banjo bolt circled in red, pull out the plastic thingy + spring and then refit the banjo bolt (including BOTH copper washers)
To get the plastic thingy I used a piece of thin wire with a slight hook, you can get it through the hole in the plastic thingy then turn then pull!
Finally bleed the clutch line like normal!
Have fun!
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Apr 29, 2010, 02:21 AM
#9
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if i bleed the brake with out the bleeding the clutch, will it be fine? or should i bleed it as soon as i can? because im worring about maxing the old oem fluid with my new other type of fluid.
thanks
thanks
Jun 8, 2010, 04:39 PM
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If not, anyone have any how-tos on how to bleed the clutch and in what order (ie should I flush the brake lines first or clutch first?)
Jun 9, 2010, 10:26 AM
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The Clutch slave cyl is on the trans, basically under the airbox. there's a bleeder screw on it. I was always told that when bleeding, you should start with the caliper/whatever you want to beleed that is furthest away from the reservoir. so i would go with the right rear brake, left rear, right front, left front, then clutch.
Jun 9, 2010, 11:26 AM
#13
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Do the brakes then the clutch. Personally, I don't think it matters either way, as long as you do both at the same time.
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