SS lines won't help -- I know because I never had fade using totally stock setups. They say its good when things get hot, as in from track pads.

There's some good input on the value of Ti shields. I'm a Mech Engr and can't see why anyone would think that a very little bit of metal, low mass, would absorb and dispel any heat in a steady state. It could possibly slow the transference of heat by a couple minutes at best, but nothing after the second lap.

You should plan on changing the fluid anyway, just for safety. Gravity bleeding will be fine if you don't want to invest in a power bleeder. Takes longer, but works fine. Especially for me since I let it run onto the gravel driveway. I like the Superblue, seemed fine with my StopTech pads. I'll let you know in a couple weeks how it holds up to the higher temps of the track pads.

EDIT: If you ever try gravity bleeding, do remember to remove/loosen the brake fill resevoir cap. Otherwise you can get bubbles into the lines and you don't want that.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...o-x-forum.html


Really nothing else you need to know, other than where to shop.

 

IMHO, if the stock Brembo's are good enough for Gates; they're good enough for me and 98% of the people on Evolutionm.

 

I agree. Just to clarify a bit more, the stock Brembo calipers are fine for the majority of people. Stock pads however, seem to not do well if abused for extended periods. I've found that limiting myself to 10-15 minute sessions, and backing off if I smell brakes, has been ok for track days so far.

 

^ +1

 

He's stated that the X brakes are no good until you install the AMS brake ducts. I'm not doing that right away, if ever.

On my motorcycles the SS lines always improved the feel. I didn't buy them for fade.

Girodisc sells the shims. They can't hurt anything and I like to think they know something about brakes.

 

The pedal with the stock lines is awesome and tight. Can't do any better than that; slowing suddenly from 120 to 40 doesn't scare ya in the Evo, they're still firm. Remember, the pressure that hydraulic lines hold average 1000psi. That's serious stuff; the lines don't expand. People that claim they do are providing theoretical data that's expansion of + 0.1 % (that's 0.001) or less. These lines can't stretch noticably. They can't without weakening, then they'd burst. Stress & strain, those are areas I know WELL. The worry that SS lines address is the temperature induced weakening of the rubber outer portion, that could allow strain, therefore decreasing thickness of the line. Diminished thickness is dangerous, increased diameter is the phenom called "fade". If you have stock lines that give in the pedal when pressed hard, and not hot, you have a line that's not safe, high or low temp. "Noticing" stretching would mean our feet can detect more sensitive changes than we really can.

SS lines can actually create a new headache, that's rubbing/chaffing of the metal braiding, so just beware that they won't last as long, and need to be kept clean if you buy a set that doesn't have plastic sheathing to keep dirt out out of the braids and permanently away from the re-inforced rubber interior.

If you don't want to go the route of ducts, you can get the Mitsubishi brake air guides for a little over $100 from a number of outlets. I didn't do the ducts either, but I did add the air guides, a very easy bolt on.

 

btw, don't mistake soft pedal feel when pushed hard with expanding lines. That's fluid compressibility. Happens when you get water or air in the lines. A nice flush always makes brakes happy again.