cbr1000

iTrader: (2)

I'm getting my conti DWS put on Sat morning and an alignment.

Should I have them flip the camber plate on the front wheels?

I've got rsb, everything else is factory. Will swap springs to swift spec r's in the next couple months.

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

You mean the camber bolt?

It depends if you want to run -1 or -2 degrees of camber in the front. I'd recommend -2 for aggressive street, autocross, and track duty.

Smike

iTrader: (8)

Just changing wheels does not require an alignment. Alignment is set at the hub. If you have more than 1 year with current alignment, its not a bad idea to get it checked from bumps/use. Otherwise, if just doing a wheel swap -- not required.

*Required* -- what are you using the car for? Flipping the camber bolt to add camber for ____?

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

He has a 2011 and my guess just wants to get it aligned since Mitsu never gets them right from the factory. If that's the case though, OP see if you can get it covered under warranty (I did @ 600 miles).

cbr1000

iTrader: (2)

Your exactly right...

Firestone has lifetime alignment for $180

I just put in a rear sway bar, and am taking it to them on Saturday to swap out my tires.

I figure I might as well get an alignment while I'm there....from what I've read the factory alignment is poor.

I'm using this for daily driving. No auto X, ... although I do live a bit out in the country and our roads are not flat... kinda 50/50 straight/curvy, hills.

I'm asking because I want to be able to tell the alignment shop what to do... based off of everyones experience here... + if I know what there doing then I will have a good reference related to changes I want to make when I put springs on.

...or do I just tell them to align it to factory specs?

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

With a lifetime alignment package experiment a bit and see what work's best for you.

I personally did:
-2 front camber
-1 rear camber
0 toe (all corners)

Going with zero toe on a daily-driver really helps save the tires from excessive wear.

Deraj

iTrader: (2)

Is -2 in the front the max you can go with the stock camber bolts?

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

Approximately. If you really wanted to max it out you could probably squeeze a bit extra out of it if you loosened everything, pushed the camber out, then snugged everything back down.

x-boosted

iTrader: (1)

what is the best alignment spec for lowered evo x(on springs) and prevent from uneven tires wear ?I don't track or autocross,just daily drive.thanks

dek0026

a stock spec (i know there's a wide range) alignment is perfectly fine for car that are soley street driven. running -2* front won't result in longest tire life but it also wont eat them up that quickly either.

~-1.5* front and -1* rear with as little tow possible is prudent and adequate for street driving.

getting as much in front with the bolt in its original position and then half a degree less in rear is a good street/autox setup IMO. flipping the bolt will get you greater than -2*.

this is basic info and i am by no means an expert.

SiliconTek

iTrader: (3)

If you do not drive aggressively, do not need to tuck-in a big fat wheels, or attend track/autocross events at all then there really isn't a reason to change it from the factory spec. You will not feel any difference at all driving to work unless you are taking some spirited turns. If you don't track or autocross set it to the factory spec -1.0F/-1.0R and 0 toe. I ran my last tires on factory for a few autocross events and a couple of track days and it was still fun. I am now running -2.6/-1.5 and there are no real issues at all but of course my commute is only 14 miles one way a day and what little wear is there gets evened out at the next event.

odin

Took the car to the firetone and got lifetime alignment ($179.99 with $30off discount = $149.99), not bad at all. But the tech told me that the front camber can NOT be adjusted!? He even took me inside the shop and show me their screen, the machine does say "Lancer Evolution X front camber unadjustable"... Any one knows why? Btw, I did tell the tech to look for the bolt, but he couldn't find it...

so my result is:
Front
Left : Camber= -0.7(original); Toe= 0;
Right: Camber= -1.1(original); Toe=0;

Rear
Left: Camber= -1.1; Toe= 0.17;
Right: Camber= -1.1; Toe=0.10.

Can anyone specify where the front camber bolts are? Pic will be highly appreciated!!!

PS: never mind, just found the post and wrote the info down. Gonna bring it to the firestone and show to the tech next time (LIFETIME alignment is wonderful lol)...

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

Link us to the post so we can verify it's accurate.

odin

Just up there on the top lol:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...fications.html

WREvo

I disagree with the wheel statement. If i were getting a wider set of wheels even if i wasn't lowered i would want to get aligned.