Best bang for buck Coilovers
Jun 5, 2011, 12:33 PM
#16
As tested 500,000 times they show less than 5% deformation. So they beat the crap out of them to ensure they perform for you.
Bill aka "Spins4"
bill@dynotechtuning.com
Bill aka "Spins4"
bill@dynotechtuning.com
still waiting on the shock dyno data...
Jun 6, 2011, 08:46 AM
#20
It's an inexpensive alternative. If someone needs something better they just pay more. But for the average person who just needs a drop and a decent ride you really cant beat the price. $900 Shipped. You know that you can spend thousands and thousands on suspension. But unless you are a die hard road racer is it necessary for someone who takes a car out for a blast on the weekends? Never were we saying these are top of the line just as good as JIC, Greddy Type R or KW at 2-3 times the price. They work pretty well and we have yet to have any problems with quality. I like to compare these to BC, K-Sport/D-2 for quality and price.
We can give you any spring rate you need so there is a little more room for your exact needs, and we give free thrust bearings if needed. All coilovers come with a 12 month warranty, if our product fails in any way in the first 12 months we will pay all postage, labor and parts costs to fix the issue in minimal time. If our product fails after that initial 12 month period we will replace the product at trade price! We never stop looking after our customers. Just something else to think about.
-Brian
Jun 6, 2011, 08:51 AM
#21
If I were in the market for coilovers now, AST, Ohlins and JRZ would be the only ones I'd choose from. I know there are not cheap but i speak from experience when I say, there's NO SUBSTITUTE for a properly valved shock. I am going to list 3 experiences here, one personal and two are mates of mine.
1. I had a set of Tein Monoflex's, paid $1800 so not exactly cheap and while they were good, they are no comparison to the Ohlins R&T I have now. I am still astonished at how brilliant these shocks are in absorbing road imperfections whilst delivering race car like grip.
2. My mate has XXX Brand on his Evo X now and after taking a ride in my car, has now decided to step up to set of Ohlins.
3. This is one you and everyone reading will appreciate. My goofy mate and Pro Race-Car driver and champion, Leh Keen when in pocession of his 04STI, replaced his expensive Japanese Coilovers with a good shock and springs setup and noted much superior handing overall.
Just some food for thought but investing in a good shock the first time is worth its weight in gold, trust me.
1. I had a set of Tein Monoflex's, paid $1800 so not exactly cheap and while they were good, they are no comparison to the Ohlins R&T I have now. I am still astonished at how brilliant these shocks are in absorbing road imperfections whilst delivering race car like grip.
2. My mate has XXX Brand on his Evo X now and after taking a ride in my car, has now decided to step up to set of Ohlins.
3. This is one you and everyone reading will appreciate. My goofy mate and Pro Race-Car driver and champion, Leh Keen when in pocession of his 04STI, replaced his expensive Japanese Coilovers with a good shock and springs setup and noted much superior handing overall.
Just some food for thought but investing in a good shock the first time is worth its weight in gold, trust me.
Jun 6, 2011, 09:08 AM
#22
If I were in the market for coilovers now, AST, Ohlins and JRZ would be the only ones I'd choose from. I know there are not cheap but i speak from experience when I say, there's NO SUBSTITUTE for a properly valved shock. I am going to list 3 experiences here, one personal and two are mates of mine.
1. I had a set of Tein Monoflex's, paid $1800 so not exactly cheap and while they were good, they are no comparison to the Ohlins R&T I have now. I am still astonished at how brilliant these shocks are in absorbing road imperfections whilst delivering race car like grip.
2. My mate has XXX Brand on his Evo X now and after taking a ride in my car, has now decided to step up to set of Ohlins.
3. This is one you and everyone reading will appreciate. My goofy mate and Pro Race-Car driver and champion, Leh Keen when in pocession of his 04STI, replaced his expensive Japanese Coilovers with a good shock and springs setup and noted much superior handing overall.
Just some food for thought but investing in a good shock the first time is worth its weight in gold, trust me.
1. I had a set of Tein Monoflex's, paid $1800 so not exactly cheap and while they were good, they are no comparison to the Ohlins R&T I have now. I am still astonished at how brilliant these shocks are in absorbing road imperfections whilst delivering race car like grip.
2. My mate has XXX Brand on his Evo X now and after taking a ride in my car, has now decided to step up to set of Ohlins.
3. This is one you and everyone reading will appreciate. My goofy mate and Pro Race-Car driver and champion, Leh Keen when in pocession of his 04STI, replaced his expensive Japanese Coilovers with a good shock and springs setup and noted much superior handing overall.
Just some food for thought but investing in a good shock the first time is worth its weight in gold, trust me.
-Brian
Jun 6, 2011, 09:15 AM
#23
It was very nice of the vendor to provide force-by-velocity plots. Not everyone out there is so generous.
With that said, wow, those are scary-bad. The only positive that I can come up with is saying that the levels of compression relative to rebound aren't as bad as some other Asian shocks. These look like Taiwanese Apexis to me.
With that said, wow, those are scary-bad. The only positive that I can come up with is saying that the levels of compression relative to rebound aren't as bad as some other Asian shocks. These look like Taiwanese Apexis to me.
Jun 6, 2011, 09:58 AM
#24
Dynotech, I understand what you're saying but the suspension is so much of what makes the Evo a great drivers' car. I would sooner invest in some Bilstein HD's and GTWORX or Swift springs than cheap coilovers. I'm sorry but I feel strongly about this. When people say, "I want a set of cheap coilovers that perform like x,y and z", I say sorry as that's not going to happen. Just like engine components and tuners or anything car-part related, you get what you pay for. Suspensions aren't any different and spending twice or thrice isn't smart either.
Jun 6, 2011, 10:10 AM
#25
It was very nice of the vendor to provide force-by-velocity plots. Not everyone out there is so generous.
With that said, wow, those are scary-bad. The only positive that I can come up with is saying that the levels of compression relative to rebound aren't as bad as some other Asian shocks. These look like Taiwanese Apexis to me.
With that said, wow, those are scary-bad. The only positive that I can come up with is saying that the levels of compression relative to rebound aren't as bad as some other Asian shocks. These look like Taiwanese Apexis to me.
Jun 6, 2011, 10:21 AM
#26
Most of all, that's a ton of hysteresis. The two places on the left side where the curves touch zero velocity correspond to the shock switching from compression to rebound and the shock switching from rebound to compression. That they are separated by quite a distance is a bad sign. A Koni Yellow, for example, produces almost no hysteresis.
The other bad sign is how the first half of the adjustment range did absolutely nothing. Compare the full-soft and middle-setting plots. They're almost identical. That is what made me suspect these are from that factory in Taiwan. That manufacturer was known for this, although this is not definitive by any means, since other makers have adjusters that do nothing in some part of the range.
I guess I should say another positive: Even though the adjuster on this seems to the standard two-way low-speed bleed adjuster, the effect on compression is minimal while the low-speed rebound acquires a pronounced "nose" around 2 in/sec. That's good. It's the low-speed rebound that you want to be able to crank up. Of course, the hysteresis undoes a lot of this good, but it's better than a lot of plots that I've seen.
In case you haven't seen force-by-velocity plots before, "negative" force is rebound damping and "positive" is compression.
The other bad sign is how the first half of the adjustment range did absolutely nothing. Compare the full-soft and middle-setting plots. They're almost identical. That is what made me suspect these are from that factory in Taiwan. That manufacturer was known for this, although this is not definitive by any means, since other makers have adjusters that do nothing in some part of the range.
I guess I should say another positive: Even though the adjuster on this seems to the standard two-way low-speed bleed adjuster, the effect on compression is minimal while the low-speed rebound acquires a pronounced "nose" around 2 in/sec. That's good. It's the low-speed rebound that you want to be able to crank up. Of course, the hysteresis undoes a lot of this good, but it's better than a lot of plots that I've seen.
In case you haven't seen force-by-velocity plots before, "negative" force is rebound damping and "positive" is compression.
Jun 6, 2011, 11:21 AM
#28
I wish it were, but I've seen enough plots from that Taiwanese factory to believe that it could be real. I've also seen pics of one of these shocks (K-Sports, IIRC) ripped open and then it all made sense. In a nutshell, once the bleeder is backed off about half-way, backing it off any more has no additional effect since the bleeder's tube becomes the limiting factor. If it weren't for the fact that some people seem to think that the number of available settings (36 clicks vs 24 vs whatever) is some way to judge quality, I bet they would have fixed this issue a long time ago.
Jun 6, 2011, 11:31 AM
#29
I was just asked in a PM why the average of the two points at the left side of the plots isn't at zero force. (PMs are cool, but I'll answer in public so I don't have to type anything twice. Unless you ask a question I can't answer, of course; that I'll keep secret. 
)
Anyhoo, the reason the average is above zero is because this is a high-pressure shock. The pressure inside (which is used to avoid cavitation in the oil at high piston speeds) tries to force the shaft out of the shock, meaning that these shocks have a noticeable amount of anti-compression force when sitting still. This is why, for example, if you replace a set of dead and/or low-pressure shocks with new high-pressure shocks, your car will gain a little in height.
)Anyhoo, the reason the average is above zero is because this is a high-pressure shock. The pressure inside (which is used to avoid cavitation in the oil at high piston speeds) tries to force the shaft out of the shock, meaning that these shocks have a noticeable amount of anti-compression force when sitting still. This is why, for example, if you replace a set of dead and/or low-pressure shocks with new high-pressure shocks, your car will gain a little in height.
Jun 6, 2011, 11:51 AM
#30
I wish it were, but I've seen enough plots from that Taiwanese factory to believe that it could be real. I've also seen pics of one of these shocks (K-Sports, IIRC) ripped open and then it all made sense. In a nutshell, once the bleeder is backed off about half-way, backing it off any more has no additional effect since the bleeder's tube becomes the limiting factor. If it weren't for the fact that some people seem to think that the number of available settings (36 clicks vs 24 vs whatever) is some way to judge quality, I bet they would have fixed this issue a long time ago.
My Koni Yellows are infinitely adjustable (no clicks)....does that mean they are infinitely better than anything else out there?
- Andrew