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Help - rusted frozen rear toe bolt

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Old Sep 13, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Help - rusted frozen rear toe bolt

I love Cleveland and salt and cold and rust! My rear toe eccentric bolt does not turn... tried PB and lots of torque; no go. My next step is heat but I'm afraid to screw something up or break it. Anyone ever tackle this problem?
Old Sep 13, 2011, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by evozoom
I love Cleveland and salt and cold and rust! My rear toe eccentric bolt does not turn... tried PB and lots of torque; no go. My next step is heat but I'm afraid to screw something up or break it. Anyone ever tackle this problem?
I have dealt with this and you won't like what I say.

We had to cut the bolts and replace both the bolts and the bushings in the toe arms. When the bolt rust-welds to the inner sleeve of the bushing, there is no other option.
Old Sep 13, 2011, 02:56 PM
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Thanks. I was afraid that might be the answer. Anyone else have success with a solution that required less surgery?
Old Sep 13, 2011, 06:04 PM
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Is this on an X? I had the same issue on my VIII, didn't know it was happening to the X as well.
Old Sep 13, 2011, 07:11 PM
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When Mitsu makes a car that doesn't have bolts that rust-weld inside bushing sleeves, I won't be here any more since I'll be on the Bugatti Veryon forums, instead. It's just a matter of time.
Old Sep 14, 2011, 09:38 AM
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Yes this is for an evo 8 (2003). I screwed up and put it in the wrong section and couldn't figure out how to move it.
Old Sep 15, 2011, 11:18 AM
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I work in an alignment shop and when bolts are frozen the first thing we do is nuke the bolt with some heat, then try to break it loose. You need to heat the bolt completely up then if it wont break loose you will need to replace it.
Old Sep 15, 2011, 11:21 AM
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heat that son of a B up. when you start to smell rubber burning lay off.
Old Sep 15, 2011, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ►EvolutionX◄
I work in an alignment shop and when bolts are frozen the first thing we do is nuke the bolt with some heat, then try to break it loose. You need to heat the bolt completely up then if it wont break loose you will need to replace it.
Do you check to see if you trashed the bushing afterwards or do you just carry on regardless, assuming that you manage to get the bolt out?

Note: I'm not asking what you should do or what you personally would do. I'm curious as to whether shops cook a bolt out of a bonded-rubber bushing and then give the customer back his or her car with the bushing no longer bonded to the inner and outer sleeves.
Old Sep 15, 2011, 01:50 PM
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Heat them and pry, pound or cut them off. Works, Whtline and others make a bushing kit--when you assemble it coat the bolts with a sythentic grease and that will keep this from happening so often in the future.. Good luck.
Old May 18, 2012, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by evozoom
I love Cleveland and salt and cold and rust! My rear toe eccentric bolt does not turn... tried PB and lots of torque; no go. My next step is heat but I'm afraid to screw something up or break it. Anyone ever tackle this problem?
What did you end up doing? Have the same issue and in Ohio haha :/
Old May 21, 2012, 10:36 AM
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I wasn't sure which bolt this was, but after looking at the manual, it is these part numbers:

Help - rusted frozen rear toe bolt-uamo5.png

MB856488 - 41604C BOLT,RR SUSP ASSIST LINK
MR171026 - 41636 PLATE,RR SUSP ASSIST LINK
MS450044 - 41606C WASHER,RR SUSP ASSIST LINK
MU430003 - 41605C NUT,RR SUSP ASSIST LINK
Old Oct 1, 2012, 08:07 PM
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Do these toe bolts/washers have to be vehicle specific or is this more of a generic application where, dare i say, one size fits all?
Old Oct 4, 2012, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Iowa999
Do you check to see if you trashed the bushing afterwards or do you just carry on regardless, assuming that you manage to get the bolt out?

Note: I'm not asking what you should do or what you personally would do. I'm curious as to whether shops cook a bolt out of a bonded-rubber bushing and then give the customer back his or her car with the bushing no longer bonded to the inner and outer sleeves.
When you are heating the bolt head where it threads into the nut, you would have to put an immense amount of heat into the bolt for it to transfer from the bolt to the sleeve to the bushing and melt it out of the sleeve... Accusing me of being negligent to a customers vehicle due to your lack of knowledge of actual applications of working on a vehicle is quite a bold accusation to make. I work alongside ASE certified technicians who have been doing this very job for 40+ years... I think they may possibly have discovered by this point (whether by observation or customer complaint) that they are causing damage to a customers vehicle. You speak as though we are applying heat to the bolt for long periods of time while we ignore any possible side affects of applying the heat...? This is all negating the the fact that the customer has been presented with their options of correcting the condition on their vehicle and the possible repercussions of doing such actions.

P.S. I know your post was from a year ago, but I figured I would take the time to respond to your inept accusations which imply that I am some careless, negligent individual who is damaging customer's vehicles.
Old Oct 4, 2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Inprogress
Do these toe bolts/washers have to be vehicle specific or is this more of a generic application where, dare i say, one size fits all?
They are not one size fits all unfortunately. Different vehicles require different sized and strength bolts. On the other hand, a lot of bolts will fit many different vehicle applications and work properly, but they must have proper fitment in order to allow the right range of adjustment and be able to properly tighten down and maintain the adjustment.


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