armysoldier1073

iTrader: (1)

My CMC went out last week. I installed the new one and bleed the brakes. everything is hooked up the same as it was taken off. i have bleed the beakes and cmc at first without car running, due to no clutch.

i then bleed them again with te car running. every time i go to drive it, the brakes either dont release when i apply the brake or something is causing the brakes to apply them selves. after about 5 min of driving the car builds up enough pressure in brakes to stop it self.

when this happen i bleed the brakes again and then drivable again till it happens again.... i have bleed them in the traditional way ( farthest from cylinder first), and have also done the x methos that was posted in the forum.... someone please tell me wahti am doing wrong or what is wrong with car....

milford

iTrader: (18)

I had this problem once. it was due to over extending the push rod on the brake booster to far out. something is putting slight pressure on your BMC.

armysoldier1073

iTrader: (1)

how did you fix it?

AWDTerror

iTrader: (2)

did you bleed the outside and inside of the caliper?

armysoldier1073

iTrader: (1)

yes, every time.

AWDTerror

iTrader: (2)

You will probably, like said above, pull your brake master again and see if something is kinked inside.

armysoldier1073

iTrader: (1)

does anyone else have any ideas?.... going to take bmc out and look to see if maybe something didnt align right. there cant be this little of people that have had this issue.

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

This sounds very odd. My first question is, are you sure you're bleeding the brakes and clutch properly? Here is a good write-up: http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html

Considering you didn't touch the brake master cylinder I wouldn't think that would be the issue, since it was the clutch master cylinder you replaced that is where I'd look first. Did you install a stock CMC or one of the aftermarket variants? It seems like a ton of people have issues bleeding the SSP CMC's.

When the brakes lock themselves like that, what happens if you remove the fluid reservoir cap? Is the level down from being compressed into the calipers or does it overflow from excessive pressure?

armysoldier1073

iTrader: (1)

no level down, i bleed them as in that very write up. it is the magnus kit, but i took the outsourced cmc off and put an evo 9 cmc in its place. i had a shop look at it and apperently the two rods inside the brake booster came out of alignment... how i am not sure. when they disconnected the brake pedal they were able to move the car. as far as moving the cap, nothing happens.. fluid is same as it was before, no loss no over flow. the shop is going to adjust that and then bleed everything again. so we will see then..... thank you for your help.

AWDTerror

iTrader: (2)

You have to remove the BMC to make room to install the Magnus CMC.

Kracka

iTrader: (49)

Ahh ok.

Glad they found your problem.

armysoldier1073

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE..... well her is an update to the issue. i had never used a motive bleeder before. i had always used the traditional 2 man method. when i got done bleeding brakes i noticed that my brake light was on, with no pressure applied. so i got under dash and seen that the pedal brake switch was not touching the pedal. so i moved it down to allow the lights to come off...... well apperently when using the motive method, your supposed to press brake to accuate the pressure. if i HAD done this in the first place the pedal would have returned to normal position.

what the issue was is when i moved switch, it was just long enough to keep constant pressure on cyclinder even though pedal was not pushed. so when i pushed brake each time it was like a vice action, always clamping and not releasing since the booster releases the pressure from calipers when the pedal is all the way out. all fixed, feel dumb now but lesson learned... nothing messed up, but bruised ego.