Right Front Wheel Camber Change
#1
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Right Front Wheel Camber Change
So I did some searching and wasn't able to come up with any results that were really helpful, as surprisingly it doesn't seem anyone else has had this problem.
2010 GSR. Enkei Raijin's, but very close to stock fitment (18X8.5 35mm offset).
A couple of days before I got the Raijins in, as I was coming to a stop at a stoplight, I heard a half loud click/pop from the right front passenger side. I say half loud because it was about as loud as a small stone getting thrown from the tread. It happened 2 times, and I didn't think anything of it because I didn't feel anything different. This was when I was running my stock wheels with all season tires.
Then I got the Raijins mounted, balanced, and put the stock A13's back on the car. It's pushing to the left hard. I start looking, and I can physically see the right front camber is off. I take it to tire discounters just to check, RH front camber is at -2.5*. LH FR is still OK.
Mileage on the car is 12,300. From the Factory service manual, front camber/caster are non adjustable. I'm going to take it to the dealer next week and see what they say.
The way I see it, I'll have two options. 1)Either they'll replace the front struts (preferable!). Or 2) they'll put a cam bolt or a plate in to change the camber, which I don't want because of strength/deterioration over time, especially with aggressive autoX driving.
What I'm concerned about is that now either a hole has opened up in the strut/knuckle, or that cam bolts/plates will now affect 1 side differently than the other.
What does everyone think? Has this happened to anyone else? Should I push the issue with the dealer for this being a warranty issue? Does anyone else have cam bolts or camber plate recommendations if that's how I have to go?
2010 GSR. Enkei Raijin's, but very close to stock fitment (18X8.5 35mm offset).
A couple of days before I got the Raijins in, as I was coming to a stop at a stoplight, I heard a half loud click/pop from the right front passenger side. I say half loud because it was about as loud as a small stone getting thrown from the tread. It happened 2 times, and I didn't think anything of it because I didn't feel anything different. This was when I was running my stock wheels with all season tires.
Then I got the Raijins mounted, balanced, and put the stock A13's back on the car. It's pushing to the left hard. I start looking, and I can physically see the right front camber is off. I take it to tire discounters just to check, RH front camber is at -2.5*. LH FR is still OK.
Mileage on the car is 12,300. From the Factory service manual, front camber/caster are non adjustable. I'm going to take it to the dealer next week and see what they say.
The way I see it, I'll have two options. 1)Either they'll replace the front struts (preferable!). Or 2) they'll put a cam bolt or a plate in to change the camber, which I don't want because of strength/deterioration over time, especially with aggressive autoX driving.
What I'm concerned about is that now either a hole has opened up in the strut/knuckle, or that cam bolts/plates will now affect 1 side differently than the other.
What does everyone think? Has this happened to anyone else? Should I push the issue with the dealer for this being a warranty issue? Does anyone else have cam bolts or camber plate recommendations if that's how I have to go?
#2
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Before you replace anything, take the wheel off and look at the suspension. (And do this before you do any more driving, please.) It could be something obvious and dangerous, such as one of the two bolts that holds the strut to the knuckle is gone.
When you know what the problem is, you'll/we'll know how to fix it.
When you know what the problem is, you'll/we'll know how to fix it.
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My apologies. I should have said that I did remove the wheel and check. All fasteners still in place. I couldn't see the mark on the factory bolt, or any witness marks to show the spring had moved in the seat.
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No. It's not listing (to match the nautical terminology). Only the RH front wheel camber is visibly off. The top of the starboard wheel is obviously inboard (to port).
#6
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![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Then there are only three possibilities: (a) the lower arm is pulled outwards, (b) the upper end of the shock is pushed inwards, or (c) the knuckle isn't square to the strut. (I'm ignoring a bent knuckle, since it's very hard to bent them without breaking them.) I still lean (list?) towards (c), even if both bolts are still there.
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