Outer CV / Axle boot replacement
Jun 30, 2012, 07:42 AM
#1
Outer CV / Axle boot replacement
It looks like I've torn my outer CV/ Axle boot and am slinging some grease...
Mitsu makes a boot kit to replace this boot. I'm wondering whether I need to remove the half shaft entirely and the inner boot to remove and replace the outer boot (closest to the hub). Or, with luck, can I remove the outer boot without removing the entire half shaft. Has anyone done this, or have the tech manual guide on how to install this boot kit? Thanks
Mitsu makes a boot kit to replace this boot. I'm wondering whether I need to remove the half shaft entirely and the inner boot to remove and replace the outer boot (closest to the hub). Or, with luck, can I remove the outer boot without removing the entire half shaft. Has anyone done this, or have the tech manual guide on how to install this boot kit? Thanks
Jul 2, 2012, 05:17 AM
#3
OK, I found the repair manual regarding pulling the axle and replacing the boot. Some tips as to the process would be helpful though... If I get through this alive I'll try to post something up so the next one of you doing this won't feel so alone and abandoned...
Jul 2, 2012, 02:11 PM
#5
No, it's not really a tranny thing. On your axle you have two "boots". Rubber accordian like pieces that are filled with grease for your CV joint and your 3 splined thingy for which I can't remember the name. The axle fits into the transmission of course. If your boots get even a pin hole they will sling grease all over the underside of your motor/ transmission, or inside of your wheel and suspension (depending on whether it is an inner or outer boot.
I ripped my outer boot when my brake duct cooling chose to come undone at speed (NJMP Lightning) and get caught in the wheel. So I removed all the melted tubing and such to find a very small slit in the rubber that proceeded to poop grease all over the inside of the wheel. Actually, it wasn't that much as there was a ton remaining in the boot as I discovered today - but it was a significant mess. The clamps can leak too. Either way, if you are dry then all is good if you have a film of green goopy grease, then you have a project in front of you.
I ripped my outer boot when my brake duct cooling chose to come undone at speed (NJMP Lightning) and get caught in the wheel. So I removed all the melted tubing and such to find a very small slit in the rubber that proceeded to poop grease all over the inside of the wheel. Actually, it wasn't that much as there was a ton remaining in the boot as I discovered today - but it was a significant mess. The clamps can leak too. Either way, if you are dry then all is good if you have a film of green goopy grease, then you have a project in front of you.
Jul 2, 2012, 05:05 PM
#7
OK, I did this today and will try to post some pictures, and I have the manual now too, so, if you have to do this send me a pm and I can give you some ideas. Basically:
1. Put the front of the car on jackstands, take off the wheel (for me the right front)
2. Undue the cotter pin and use a 32mm socket to undue the axle bolt
3. Undue your end link at the control arm
4. Undue the control arm from the hub and use a lever to pull it down and off the hub
5. Swing the hub and brake caliper out of the way, releasing the end of the axle
5. Use a mondo flat screwdriver and "pop' out the half axle where it joins the transmission
6. Slide the axle out into your lap
7. With the axle in a vise remove the inner clamps on the boot, slide off the housing to the inner CV joint thing. Clean off all the grease. Remove the C clip and slide off the CV joint thing.
8. undo the outer boot clamps
9. Slide the boots off the axle.
10. Wipe everything down, it's a mess
11. slide on the outermost clamp, then the boot and inner clamp. Fill the outer boot with the grease pack that came with the kit.
12 align the clamps and use a clamp tool or big vise grip or similar to pinch them tight.
13. Put on the inner CV joint, the C clip and fill the housing with the second grease pack.
14. Position the inner boot and clamps and tighten those clamps too, they fold over.
15. Position the axle bag against the tranny and it will slide in with another pop, some manual force is necessary
16 Align the splines with the hub and swing the hub back over and push on
17 Put on the big washer, bevel out
18 Put on the big nut and tighten pretty tight
19 Align the control arm and fit the end into the hub, making sure the end is rotated so the flat spot will center in the hole, allowing the bolt to go through. This can be a pain. Insert the bolt and nut tighten.
20. push down a bit on your swing arm and fit the end of the endlink into the control arm hole it came from, put on the nut and tighten.
21. Put on the wheel. put the car on the ground and torque the big nut to about 102 ft lbs and then some more to line up the holes for the cotter pin.
22. Jack up the car, take off the wheel, insert the cotter pin and bend the ends into place. Put the wheel back on and lower the car.
That's about it. Truth be told Jack and Joe from EFI Logics assisted heavily. I did this at EFI and so also had access to all of their beautiful tools as well. I did much of the manual work but they were there to advise and direct as I had about 1100 questions along the way. I know many of you have swapped out your axles but this was a first for me and so I have renewed respect for EFI's technical expertise. So much more knowledge than the service manual, without their guidance it would have taken me twice as long.
1. Put the front of the car on jackstands, take off the wheel (for me the right front)
2. Undue the cotter pin and use a 32mm socket to undue the axle bolt
3. Undue your end link at the control arm
4. Undue the control arm from the hub and use a lever to pull it down and off the hub
5. Swing the hub and brake caliper out of the way, releasing the end of the axle
5. Use a mondo flat screwdriver and "pop' out the half axle where it joins the transmission
6. Slide the axle out into your lap
7. With the axle in a vise remove the inner clamps on the boot, slide off the housing to the inner CV joint thing. Clean off all the grease. Remove the C clip and slide off the CV joint thing.
8. undo the outer boot clamps
9. Slide the boots off the axle.
10. Wipe everything down, it's a mess
11. slide on the outermost clamp, then the boot and inner clamp. Fill the outer boot with the grease pack that came with the kit.
12 align the clamps and use a clamp tool or big vise grip or similar to pinch them tight.
13. Put on the inner CV joint, the C clip and fill the housing with the second grease pack.
14. Position the inner boot and clamps and tighten those clamps too, they fold over.
15. Position the axle bag against the tranny and it will slide in with another pop, some manual force is necessary
16 Align the splines with the hub and swing the hub back over and push on
17 Put on the big washer, bevel out
18 Put on the big nut and tighten pretty tight
19 Align the control arm and fit the end into the hub, making sure the end is rotated so the flat spot will center in the hole, allowing the bolt to go through. This can be a pain. Insert the bolt and nut tighten.
20. push down a bit on your swing arm and fit the end of the endlink into the control arm hole it came from, put on the nut and tighten.
21. Put on the wheel. put the car on the ground and torque the big nut to about 102 ft lbs and then some more to line up the holes for the cotter pin.
22. Jack up the car, take off the wheel, insert the cotter pin and bend the ends into place. Put the wheel back on and lower the car.
That's about it. Truth be told Jack and Joe from EFI Logics assisted heavily. I did this at EFI and so also had access to all of their beautiful tools as well. I did much of the manual work but they were there to advise and direct as I had about 1100 questions along the way. I know many of you have swapped out your axles but this was a first for me and so I have renewed respect for EFI's technical expertise. So much more knowledge than the service manual, without their guidance it would have taken me twice as long.
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Sep 21, 2014, 12:40 PM
#10
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I'd suggest you guys try to get it covered by warranty...
A lot of Evos should still be under the powertrain warranty,
and since this is an item that costs less than $500 to fix,
any dealer should be able to cover it without the approval of Mitsubishi, hence no worry about your mods.
A lot of Evos should still be under the powertrain warranty,
and since this is an item that costs less than $500 to fix,
any dealer should be able to cover it without the approval of Mitsubishi, hence no worry about your mods.
Oct 15, 2014, 07:59 AM
#12
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Thanks....I know it's been a LONG time since you posted this.
Nico
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