Brake bleeding Problems
#1
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Brake bleeding Problems
So I followed the procedure cited here:
http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html
However, I'm using a different brake bleeding order that I found in the Evo X service manual in which you bleed driver rear, passenger front, passenger rear, and lastly driver front
When I bleed the nipple for the first time, bubbles will come out. After I close it and have someone do the pumping again and I open it again, there are no more bubbles. I did that for every corner following the order above. However, when I start a new brake bleeding cycle in which I start with the driver rear again, bubbles would appear when I first open it and then they would disappear once again after subsequent bleeding of the nipples. I went through three bottles of brake fluid and I'm keeping the reservoir topped off.
I did install stainless steel lines and new brake pads. The connections on the stainless steel lines are tight. Any suggestions? Brake pedal doesn't hit the ground either. Please help!
http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html
However, I'm using a different brake bleeding order that I found in the Evo X service manual in which you bleed driver rear, passenger front, passenger rear, and lastly driver front
When I bleed the nipple for the first time, bubbles will come out. After I close it and have someone do the pumping again and I open it again, there are no more bubbles. I did that for every corner following the order above. However, when I start a new brake bleeding cycle in which I start with the driver rear again, bubbles would appear when I first open it and then they would disappear once again after subsequent bleeding of the nipples. I went through three bottles of brake fluid and I'm keeping the reservoir topped off.
I did install stainless steel lines and new brake pads. The connections on the stainless steel lines are tight. Any suggestions? Brake pedal doesn't hit the ground either. Please help!
Last edited by _hyper; Feb 10, 2014 at 08:56 PM.
#3
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So everytime I connect the hose to a nipple for the first time and crack it open it's normal to see bubbles at first? But because I open it subsequent times and I don't see bubbles that indicates there's no air in the lines? Thanks
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Pedal feels okay. When I first push down the brakes, it has a different feel for the first 10-20% of travel. Not exactly spongy, just less resistance. After that the pedal firms up really hard
#7
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You have changed alot in the brake systems so you have a lot of air. what I have found is to just drive what you have if you feels its safe and you have good brakes. Do this for a day or 2. Then go back and bleed them a final time-- and that will get all the bubbles out. You likely have air in the lines still and they need to all work toward a gathering point to be bled. Pour some brake fluid in a clear glass and you will see air bubbles suspended all over--thats what you have today, give it some time to settle out and you will get the rest of the air out in the final bleed.
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#8
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Correct. If you use a six inch piece of vacuum line between the nipple and the bottle you are bleeding the fluid into, it is an empty tube when first connected. Now you have fluid behind the bleeder and fluid in the bottle, the hose is air. Once you open the bleeder to push fluid thru the hose you are effectively pushing the air out of the Jose and into the bottle. Which is what you are describing, and is normal. Go drive the car and see how it feels.
#9
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If you can't figure it out I recommend getting a Motive Brake Bleeder. I bought one so I wouldn't have to call my wife into the garage to pump my brakes. Its a bit of $ up front but well worth it in my opinion. Other than that make sure your helper knows what they are doing and hold the brake to the floor until you tell them to lift.
#11
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ooh, i bled inside then outside (which i thought i read to do but maybe i read it wrong or had a bad source) - i installed new lines today and bled my brakes for the first time today, went pretty smooth, i would feel more comfortable bleeding them again because i ran out of fluid on the last caliper but my brakes are way better now.
to the OP, when i bled them after swapping out the lines, it took a lot of fluid to get all the air out of the rear brakes, but not nearly as much in the front. i would tap on the caliper with a rubber mallet which releases air clinging to the inside of the caliper and shoot it out of the bleeder
to the OP, when i bled them after swapping out the lines, it took a lot of fluid to get all the air out of the rear brakes, but not nearly as much in the front. i would tap on the caliper with a rubber mallet which releases air clinging to the inside of the caliper and shoot it out of the bleeder
#12
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OP, hope you won't get a slow weeping on the bleeders. i can't get rid of this issue after my first fluid change. brake fluid is eating up the brembo paint around the bleeders.