camber toe adjustment
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
camber toe adjustment
Hey guys I have a 2011 evo x and recently lowered the car on d2 coilovers and now I am trying to adjust the rear camber because the wheels are too cambered inward .... I am wanting to set my camber back to 0... I recently purchased some Megan rear camber kits and when I went to install them I realized that I might possibly need to buy some adjustable toe arms to properly align the wheels..??? Any help
#3
Evolved Member
You don't want your camber at zero. You want your toe at zero. You should be running a minimum -2 degrees of camber up front, and between .5 to 1 degree of camber less than the front in the rear.
#4
Evolved Member
hispanicpanicYou don't want your camber at zero. You want your toe at zero. You should be running a minimum -2 degrees of camber up front, and between .5 to 1 degree of camber less than the front in the rear.
#6
Evolved Member
Our tires roll too much to have any significant DD wear at -2. In my michelin pilot super sports, it took -3.6 in order to achieve a flat tire in a turn, just for reference. And that was on KW coils which will have much less body roll than a stock or spring'd evo.
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#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
As soon as I get home I'll post some pics of what I'm talking about... since I dropped the car about 2 inches the rear wheels are cambered way too much and I want to camber the wheels back out on top to sit flush with the body of the car..
#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
Ok so this picture is the bottom of the rear end on the evo x... if u were to tighten the camber arm (red one) then it will throw the toe off and u can't adjust the toe...only a small amount...so after I installed the camber arm it made the car look like it had 4 wheel steering! So would that mean I need to buy adjustable toe arms to achieve a flush look?
#11
Evolved Member
And you've tuned this camber using what? IR thermometer? Or just corner feel? And what tires are you using? And the size? I ask because i just switched tires and have yet to dial in my camber on this 30 sidewall 295. Its requiring much less camber than my stock sized MPSS, which is def a good thing. 9 suspension geometry is nearly identical to x geometry, so there are more similarities than you think.
#12
Evolved Member
Ok so this picture is the bottom of the rear end on the evo x... if u were to tighten the camber arm (red one) then it will throw the toe off and u can't adjust the toe...only a small amount...so after I installed the camber arm it made the car look like it had 4 wheel steering! So would that mean I need to buy adjustable toe arms to achieve a flush look?
#13
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If you want reliable camber in the front, i suggest getting the toe arms as well. I have been running both the camber and toe arms and have great success getting my setup where I want it. It also takes me about 15min to dial in the rear. -2 degrees up front is a good start if you track the car. If it is DD, I really wouldn't go past 2, and 1.5 to stock if you are a big highway cruiser.
#14
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
hispanicpanic, how much camber did you have dialed in before you started noticing significant inner tread wear on your PSS? I have -2.0 in the Front and noticed significant wear on the stock advans at < 10k miles. just curious what I should dial in on my new 275/35 PSS in the spring
#15
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
And you've tuned this camber using what? IR thermometer? Or just corner feel? And what tires are you using? And the size? I ask because i just switched tires and have yet to dial in my camber on this 30 sidewall 295. Its requiring much less camber than my stock sized MPSS, which is def a good thing. 9 suspension geometry is nearly identical to x geometry, so there are more similarities than you think.
255 RS-3s, tire pressure depends on the course. i've tried a bit more camber and noticed no improvement in handling, but felt a bit of a decrease in braking (may have been my imagination, as i have no way to prove it).
2.5/1.5 is brutal for daily driving, though LOL