ABS Pump Module
#1
ABS Pump Module
Hey Guys & Gals,
Looking for a little help. I recently had the ASC & ABS service lights come on and took it to my mechanic and they told me that it is most likely the ABS pump module. I also read online in different forums that for my model year that was a known problem.
I have 2010 Evo x GSR with 12,500 miles. It was mostly a garge queen becuase i work in the city and don't really get a chance to drive it much or at all. So recently by batt completely died and was left dead for about 2 months. When i got a new batt that when the lights came on.
My mechanic told me to find a used one but I have no idea where to begin my search for the ABS pump module. I can't be spending 1k on that part.
Anyone has any suggestion? That would help a lot!
Thanks!
Looking for a little help. I recently had the ASC & ABS service lights come on and took it to my mechanic and they told me that it is most likely the ABS pump module. I also read online in different forums that for my model year that was a known problem.
I have 2010 Evo x GSR with 12,500 miles. It was mostly a garge queen becuase i work in the city and don't really get a chance to drive it much or at all. So recently by batt completely died and was left dead for about 2 months. When i got a new batt that when the lights came on.
My mechanic told me to find a used one but I have no idea where to begin my search for the ABS pump module. I can't be spending 1k on that part.
Anyone has any suggestion? That would help a lot!
Thanks!
#3
I have a customer with the exact scenario and its a 2010 as well.. once the voltage drops really low it throws a fault in the ABS pump, only this year the fault remains and periodically comes and goes.. new battery and all it will go away for a week then come back for 2 days. its a fault from mitsubishi and only affects the 2010. so essentially have to get a abs module from any other year and problem solved.
#5
Thanks guy!
I took it to my mechanic first and they pulled the C0 something code which was the ABS pump low voltage code. They cleared it out and right when i drove off no more than 5 feet the service lights came back on. The mechanic told me to get a abs pump. I searched everywhere online but only UK shop had them. I finally fold one on ebay but not even 100% sure if it is good. Its a used part so its a 50/50 chance it will work. I couldnt find anywhere in the US that sells it. So hopefully the pump will work on my car.
I took it to my mechanic first and they pulled the C0 something code which was the ABS pump low voltage code. They cleared it out and right when i drove off no more than 5 feet the service lights came back on. The mechanic told me to get a abs pump. I searched everywhere online but only UK shop had them. I finally fold one on ebay but not even 100% sure if it is good. Its a used part so its a 50/50 chance it will work. I couldnt find anywhere in the US that sells it. So hopefully the pump will work on my car.
#7
The used pump worked. No more maintenance lights or service lights. Dont get new or try to get the current one refurbished. For some strange reason most of the refurbishments are in UK.
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#8
I had 'U0100 Engine CAN Timeout'
'C1290 Fail Safe (Loss of CAN Data)'
'C2116 Pump Motor Voltage Low'
So I had my abs module board re-soldered, $150nzd, that cleared up the U0100 and C1290
Then the C2116 became intermittent..
I did some research, found out that the lancer pump is virtually identical to the BMW, which had videos of guys repairing them, sure enough mine had the same problem as the BMW pump.
STICKY BRUSH in the motor.
Opened it up myself, freed it up, good to go.
such an easy fix for an expensive part.
The thing is, it's just luck wether or not your pump brush will be sticky or not, that's why I decided to fix mine properly instead of buying another unit that could have the same problem at any moment.
Tips;
Use a sharp wood chisel to cut the peened tags that hold the pump to the ali block.
Drill a 2mm hole about 2mm behind the pressed tags in the motor housing, then use a short 1.6mm tig welding wire and hammer to gently tap the plastic tag to release the motor from it's housing, they are under a lot of tension but don't worry if they break, there are recesses to stop the backing plate from spinning in the housing.
When assembling use a simple form of liquid metal to plug the 2mm holes up, or a hard setting RTV sealant.
Peen the Ali tags back over the housing with a screw driver as it was from factory.
Done.
Happy motoring!
'C1290 Fail Safe (Loss of CAN Data)'
'C2116 Pump Motor Voltage Low'
So I had my abs module board re-soldered, $150nzd, that cleared up the U0100 and C1290
Then the C2116 became intermittent..
I did some research, found out that the lancer pump is virtually identical to the BMW, which had videos of guys repairing them, sure enough mine had the same problem as the BMW pump.
STICKY BRUSH in the motor.
Opened it up myself, freed it up, good to go.
such an easy fix for an expensive part.
The thing is, it's just luck wether or not your pump brush will be sticky or not, that's why I decided to fix mine properly instead of buying another unit that could have the same problem at any moment.
Tips;
Use a sharp wood chisel to cut the peened tags that hold the pump to the ali block.
Drill a 2mm hole about 2mm behind the pressed tags in the motor housing, then use a short 1.6mm tig welding wire and hammer to gently tap the plastic tag to release the motor from it's housing, they are under a lot of tension but don't worry if they break, there are recesses to stop the backing plate from spinning in the housing.
When assembling use a simple form of liquid metal to plug the 2mm holes up, or a hard setting RTV sealant.
Peen the Ali tags back over the housing with a screw driver as it was from factory.
Done.
Happy motoring!
#9
I had 'U0100 Engine CAN Timeout'
'C1290 Fail Safe (Loss of CAN Data)'
'C2116 Pump Motor Voltage Low'
So I had my abs module board re-soldered, $150nzd, that cleared up the U0100 and C1290
Then the C2116 became intermittent..
I did some research, found out that the lancer pump is virtually identical to the BMW, which had videos of guys repairing them, sure enough mine had the same problem as the BMW pump.
STICKY BRUSH in the motor.
Opened it up myself, freed it up, good to go.
such an easy fix for an expensive part.
The thing is, it's just luck wether or not your pump brush will be sticky or not, that's why I decided to fix mine properly instead of buying another unit that could have the same problem at any moment.
Tips;
Use a sharp wood chisel to cut the peened tags that hold the pump to the ali block.
Drill a 2mm hole about 2mm behind the pressed tags in the motor housing, then use a short 1.6mm tig welding wire and hammer to gently tap the plastic tag to release the motor from it's housing, they are under a lot of tension but don't worry if they break, there are recesses to stop the backing plate from spinning in the housing.
When assembling use a simple form of liquid metal to plug the 2mm holes up, or a hard setting RTV sealant.
Peen the Ali tags back over the housing with a screw driver as it was from factory.
Done.
Happy motoring!
'C1290 Fail Safe (Loss of CAN Data)'
'C2116 Pump Motor Voltage Low'
So I had my abs module board re-soldered, $150nzd, that cleared up the U0100 and C1290
Then the C2116 became intermittent..
I did some research, found out that the lancer pump is virtually identical to the BMW, which had videos of guys repairing them, sure enough mine had the same problem as the BMW pump.
STICKY BRUSH in the motor.
Opened it up myself, freed it up, good to go.
such an easy fix for an expensive part.
The thing is, it's just luck wether or not your pump brush will be sticky or not, that's why I decided to fix mine properly instead of buying another unit that could have the same problem at any moment.
Tips;
Use a sharp wood chisel to cut the peened tags that hold the pump to the ali block.
Drill a 2mm hole about 2mm behind the pressed tags in the motor housing, then use a short 1.6mm tig welding wire and hammer to gently tap the plastic tag to release the motor from it's housing, they are under a lot of tension but don't worry if they break, there are recesses to stop the backing plate from spinning in the housing.
When assembling use a simple form of liquid metal to plug the 2mm holes up, or a hard setting RTV sealant.
Peen the Ali tags back over the housing with a screw driver as it was from factory.
Done.
Happy motoring!
#10
Hey Guys & Gals,
Looking for a little help. I recently had the ASC & ABS service lights come on and took it to my mechanic and they told me that it is most likely the ABS pump module. I also read online in different forums that for my model year that was a known problem.
I have 2010 Evo x GSR with 12,500 miles. It was mostly a garge queen becuase i work in the city and don't really get a chance to drive it much or at all. So recently by batt completely died and was left dead for about 2 months. When i got a new batt that when the lights came on.
My mechanic told me to find a used one but I have no idea where to begin my search for the ABS pump module. I can't be spending 1k on that part.
Anyone has any suggestion? That would help a lot!
Thanks!
Looking for a little help. I recently had the ASC & ABS service lights come on and took it to my mechanic and they told me that it is most likely the ABS pump module. I also read online in different forums that for my model year that was a known problem.
I have 2010 Evo x GSR with 12,500 miles. It was mostly a garge queen becuase i work in the city and don't really get a chance to drive it much or at all. So recently by batt completely died and was left dead for about 2 months. When i got a new batt that when the lights came on.
My mechanic told me to find a used one but I have no idea where to begin my search for the ABS pump module. I can't be spending 1k on that part.
Anyone has any suggestion? That would help a lot!
Thanks!
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