Hiboost

iTrader: (9)

By that time the clutch was already flogged so launching at 6k without boost would not have improved my short times at all versus the 5k I was getting since I wasn't bogging at all and still getting some slippage. Now if I had done that before doing any launches then perhaps I could have managed some 1.7x short times but it will take some street driving to get the clutch to recover once you overheat it that bad. My last attempt will be with a SS clutch line hopefully getting the clutch to engage quicker for less slip. Since I have just over 3k miles on the car I'm trying to make this a Spring '06 replacement and force myself to beat on the Eclipse if I want to go to the track.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Hmm, interesting, maybe the fact you're probably making more power than I am caused it to behave that way. I did 10 runs in one day with nothing worse than a 1.79 60' and with nothing slower than a 12.46@108, and that was only because I missed 4th while trying to powershift. My very last run was a 1.72 60' en route to a 12.24@110.62, so somehow it still was grabbing wonderfully after being abused all day. I guess it knew that was my last run (and for a big trophy + $100), because as soon as I finished that last run, the clutch went to hell.

After seeing it yesterday (off the car), I'm amazed it worked at all. The clutch disk was just about gone, the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces were both mirrors, and there were hotspots galore. I'll post pics of how NOT to abuse the stock clutch when I get it all back on Friday.

Knyght

iTrader: (1)

Warrtalon in the earlier post on the 05 differences you forget to mention the Ti compressor wheel whatever thats worth

Hiboost: I know how hard it is having two cars.. Tomorrow there is a big Supra/Evo/DSM shootout at the local track and I dont know which car to take. I put a MBC in the 05 EvoRS to eliminate some drop off(pulls all the way from ~3000 to ~7300 now) and I would like to see the improvements at the track, but then again my Talon just got an alcohol setup with a 60-1 and AEM EMS.. So.. decisions Then there is a supra/evo/dsm dyno the next day.. also decisions..

zstryder

iTrader: (19)

I don't believe the 05's have the TiAl shaft and wheel. I believe that only comes on the TME turbo. I'm pretty sure the 05's are equipped with the standard steel shaft and wheel.

mike1023

iTrader: (11)

now that was a really good write up. just blow me out of the water.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

I was under the impression it didn't think it had any titanium parts. That's what is better about the TME turbo...it has both the 10.5 hotside and the titanium bits, but not the 05 turbo.

Knyght

iTrader: (1)

Hmm.. maybe I was misquoted somewhere I was under the impression is did have the Ti stuff. Anyone have a link to some proof I'd be curious to find out for sure.

Warrtalon: What kind of dataloggers are you guys using? I still have my Sony Clie with 1G pocklogger cables and software. I forget what voltage on the narrowband was good

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Ragamuffin Palm M100 w/Palm'n'Stein software through an ODBII connector. You're supposed to tune for .92-.94v (mine reads in odds numbers .91-.93, etc) for a good AFR, but I've learned that it's best to tune to whatever voltage reading gets you the best timing advance. I can tune the car to beautiful, flat voltage curves and smooth, linear timing advances on the street with 93oct, but that all goes out the window at the drag strip. Even with the same gas, when pushing the car at its limit without dropping below 5500rpm, my best timing advance comes with .95-.97v on the O2s. I didn't understand this until I kept leaning out my S-AFC only to receive lower MPHs and pulled timing as a result. Once I added fuel back, I regained (and increased) my MPH and achieved a nice timing advance, so I now only tune for timing while keeping an eye on O2s just to make sure they don't get too low.

Mr.MR

Man you are rough on these guys! I have to laugh when I see poor spelling, but you bust chops with the quickness. I love the "colding", that's good stuff. Ya gotta wonder where people hear these things some times.

mike1023

iTrader: (11)

But is true I ask a bunch or people and they said every 75 to 100hp should go one degree colder on the spark plugs.

Knyght

iTrader: (1)

Yeah we used to tune my talon for knock and timing

Where's a good place to get the OBD2 connector, and is the palm software free somewhere?

EDIT: I got the Palm n stein software Gonna buy the Connector I need from Mutliplex engineering($82)

Hellloo sub 12's! I'm glad I didn't sell my SAFC2 and Palm

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, you must have found mine or turbolarry's writeup somewhere before I noticed your question. You got the same stuff I did...

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Yeah right, man, you didn't know this until I explained it to you. You said you had to "cold" the engine by 100 degrees for every 75hp. Now, after being schooled properly, you know to say "one degree colder on the spark plugs." Don't try to act smart now...the facts lie 3-4 pages back...

Knyght

iTrader: (1)

I still have my DSM 'pocketlogger.com' software I wonder if it'll work with that $82 connector, I'm more familiar with it than palm n stein. Should work though it's used for OBD2 cars as well.

mike1023

iTrader: (11)

hehe got me chicken ****er. lol that’s ok I didn’t know what I was talking about 100% but was on the right road. And that always counts for something. right?

O so on topic.
This is to all 03/04 evo and 05:
When in 5th gear and you about 3-4k rpm. And when you floor it does it feel like no power and then let up off the gas a bit and it pulls harder. I say this because if I give full gas in say 5th or maybe any gear it feel like not enough gas or air going in. and if I let up some I say 75% throttled, it is a lot more power.

One more thing:
Does anyone front window like make noise like its moving or something. I hear it a lot when there is a temp change.