Sound deadening
#1
Sound deadening
Searched and couldn't find any information.
Basically, wherein is the RS missing sound deadening? Is it hood to trunk?
Curious if some dynamat or something can be used to reduce road noise is all. Not being able to talk on a cell phone = no thanks.
Been doing alot of research and lack of ABS / Sound deadening are my only negatives to the RS, so trying to gather some more information. Aluminum roof is a must!
Basically, wherein is the RS missing sound deadening? Is it hood to trunk?
Curious if some dynamat or something can be used to reduce road noise is all. Not being able to talk on a cell phone = no thanks.
Been doing alot of research and lack of ABS / Sound deadening are my only negatives to the RS, so trying to gather some more information. Aluminum roof is a must!
#3
yea, i'm just curious where the sound deadening actually is. Ie: what i'd be missing.
Also, anyway who's ridden in a RS and also in a GSR/MR can you tell a difference? If so, how much? (Sound wise that is)
Also, anyway who's ridden in a RS and also in a GSR/MR can you tell a difference? If so, how much? (Sound wise that is)
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Originally Posted by sirloin1219
if you get dynamat it's totally heavy. so if sound deadening is that important. i would get maybe some clothe? or stick it in the door.
I'm currently in the process of sound deadening my Evo's trunk, rear deck, doors, and fender wells. I used a product called Fat Mat. www.fatmat.com . The stuff is very thin adhesive backed rubber with a shiny aluminum layer on top. I tested it on a sheet of thin metal i had in my garage to see if it was as good as the non-Extreme Dynamat and using the same sized patch, the Fat Mat completely owned the Dynamat. Plus the Fat Mat is way thinner, lighter, and much less expensive. I ordered 100sq ft of Fat Mat from their site for $100 + shipping and i've already completely covered the floor and spare tire well of my trunk and it looks like i've barely made a dent in one of the two big rolls (50sq/ft each roll). I'm going to finish up the back fenders and rear deck tomorrow morning. And then move on to the doors. By the looks of things, i'm going to have a bunch left over. If thats the case, i'm going to do the foot wells in the front and under the back seat.
As for weight.... 100sq ft of Fat Mat only weighs in at 23 lbs.
http://www.fatmat.com/fatmat/bulk/100ft.htm
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Originally Posted by Andrew LB
I'm not sure how heavy the high end Dynamat Extreme is, but the older grade which is brownish in color is VERY heavy.
I'm currently in the process of sound deadening my Evo's trunk, rear deck, doors, and fender wells. I used a product called Fat Mat. www.fatmat.com . The stuff is very thin adhesive backed rubber with a shiny aluminum layer on top. I tested it on a sheet of thin metal i had in my garage to see if it was as good as the non-Extreme Dynamat and using the same sized patch, the Fat Mat completely owned the Dynamat. Plus the Fat Mat is way thinner, lighter, and much less expensive. I ordered 100sq ft of Fat Mat from their site for $100 + shipping and i've already completely covered the floor and spare tire well of my trunk and it looks like i've barely made a dent in one of the two big rolls (50sq/ft each roll). I'm going to finish up the back fenders and rear deck tomorrow morning. And then move on to the doors. By the looks of things, i'm going to have a bunch left over. If thats the case, i'm going to do the foot wells in the front and under the back seat.
As for weight.... 100sq ft of Fat Mat only weighs in at 23 lbs.
http://www.fatmat.com/fatmat/bulk/100ft.htm
I'm currently in the process of sound deadening my Evo's trunk, rear deck, doors, and fender wells. I used a product called Fat Mat. www.fatmat.com . The stuff is very thin adhesive backed rubber with a shiny aluminum layer on top. I tested it on a sheet of thin metal i had in my garage to see if it was as good as the non-Extreme Dynamat and using the same sized patch, the Fat Mat completely owned the Dynamat. Plus the Fat Mat is way thinner, lighter, and much less expensive. I ordered 100sq ft of Fat Mat from their site for $100 + shipping and i've already completely covered the floor and spare tire well of my trunk and it looks like i've barely made a dent in one of the two big rolls (50sq/ft each roll). I'm going to finish up the back fenders and rear deck tomorrow morning. And then move on to the doors. By the looks of things, i'm going to have a bunch left over. If thats the case, i'm going to do the foot wells in the front and under the back seat.
As for weight.... 100sq ft of Fat Mat only weighs in at 23 lbs.
http://www.fatmat.com/fatmat/bulk/100ft.htm
BTW...the RS is also missing that rubberish sound deadening material underneath the car but I don't think there's much we can do about that.
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Hey fellas. I'm going the doors in the morning. I hear there is a plastic film/glue that makes it hard to get to the outer panel of the car. I'm then going to cover all the holes in the outer door panel and go back in and I'm planning on doing all for doors on the inside "hidden" sections behind my speakers
Underneath sound deadening? LIke those foam sections under the back seats? Or was it a spray on material like truck bed liner?
I'm suprised that this far i've found only ONE piece of a factory and hard to remove piece of sound deadening. I'll be doing the whole thing to make all road noise go away so its a quiet as a bentley. I'll probably FatMat the doors after removing their factory deadening material. The same goes for under the rear seats and many other spots.
This www.fatmat.com stuff works wonders on foot wells, flooring under the carpet, under the back seat, and door panels.
I'll post up photos of my gutted trunk along with shots of the FatMat. I'm also doing the rear deck top and bottom just to be sure. I may put a layer of cotton insulation between the metal structure and the carpeted cover itself.
The trunk lid is more involved. I'm going to home depot to get a minimal expanding insulation rubberized foam which you use to spray it into the meshwork of support pieces criss crossing the trunk lid. Once sprayed behind them, it expands and fills all gaps.Just be very careful how much minimal expanding foam ou use. too much and you risk it expanding too much and possibly doing a dent from the outside on your paint. NEVER buy medium or HEAVY then you can coat it with dynamat (or Fat Mat) to have a nice sleek look covering the trunk lid. I highly recommend it. Oh.... just make sure you let the foam cure over night. Because putting dynamat or FatMat over the pre-cured foam will cause issues.
I swear by FatMat now though. Its just as good as my friends Dynamat Extreme which is 5 times the retail price of FatMat and it works pretty much identically.
Also... keep in mind that FATMAT weighs ONLY 22lbs for a full 100sq.ft. To get that much dynamat extreme you'd pay way over 4x the cost and i have very good hearing and they sound identical.
Actually to test this, i'm going to get a friends osilloscope to see how things read out.
I'm a soud quality guy.... not a bass head. Thats why my next buy will be some Boston Acoustics Pro Series 6 1/2" Components up front and a decent pair of 6 1/2 coax's in the rear for just fill. I'm also contemplating having competition SoundWorks build me a nice fiberglass box in the spare tire well. (no... there will be NO neon in my car)... i'lll let warrtalon take that angle. LoL. I still can't get over how he flamed me for upgrading my audio system when he said "dude... its an EVO!!"
lol. 22lbs is going to get rid of 80-85% of the road noise, vibrations, and make my music about 20x more clear and accurate!
Sorry Turdsquirter... i got off on a 5:30am tanget. I'll take photos through out the entire install starting tomorrow with the finished trunk floor and spare wheel well. I'll then begin work on the rear fenders, rear deck (i'm not sure if i should layer the top (below the carpet) as well as from below Those decks take a lot of abuse and they resonate like mad if there isn't a port for the trunk or tons of sound dampening Without the port i'll blow those speakers in a matter of weeks.
Doors come last. I hear they're a b*tch due to the plastic sheet and the glue they use. I'll probably remove it all and put a layer of FatMat on the outer door panel and another to cover the entire inner door panel to block off all the holes.
depending on how much extra is left over from the 100sq ft, should i do foot wells in the front and backs of the front fenders that are accessable from the cabin or perhaps the rear seating area?
Thanks!
BTW...the RS is also missing that rubberish sound deadening material underneath the car but I don't think there's much we can do about that.
I'm suprised that this far i've found only ONE piece of a factory and hard to remove piece of sound deadening. I'll be doing the whole thing to make all road noise go away so its a quiet as a bentley. I'll probably FatMat the doors after removing their factory deadening material. The same goes for under the rear seats and many other spots.
Originally Posted by Turd Squirter
Please post some pics and/or write up a how to. I've been wanting to do something similair with my '05 RS.
I'll post up photos of my gutted trunk along with shots of the FatMat. I'm also doing the rear deck top and bottom just to be sure. I may put a layer of cotton insulation between the metal structure and the carpeted cover itself.
The trunk lid is more involved. I'm going to home depot to get a minimal expanding insulation rubberized foam which you use to spray it into the meshwork of support pieces criss crossing the trunk lid. Once sprayed behind them, it expands and fills all gaps.Just be very careful how much minimal expanding foam ou use. too much and you risk it expanding too much and possibly doing a dent from the outside on your paint. NEVER buy medium or HEAVY then you can coat it with dynamat (or Fat Mat) to have a nice sleek look covering the trunk lid. I highly recommend it. Oh.... just make sure you let the foam cure over night. Because putting dynamat or FatMat over the pre-cured foam will cause issues.
I swear by FatMat now though. Its just as good as my friends Dynamat Extreme which is 5 times the retail price of FatMat and it works pretty much identically.
Also... keep in mind that FATMAT weighs ONLY 22lbs for a full 100sq.ft. To get that much dynamat extreme you'd pay way over 4x the cost and i have very good hearing and they sound identical.
Actually to test this, i'm going to get a friends osilloscope to see how things read out.
I'm a soud quality guy.... not a bass head. Thats why my next buy will be some Boston Acoustics Pro Series 6 1/2" Components up front and a decent pair of 6 1/2 coax's in the rear for just fill. I'm also contemplating having competition SoundWorks build me a nice fiberglass box in the spare tire well. (no... there will be NO neon in my car)... i'lll let warrtalon take that angle. LoL. I still can't get over how he flamed me for upgrading my audio system when he said "dude... its an EVO!!"
lol. 22lbs is going to get rid of 80-85% of the road noise, vibrations, and make my music about 20x more clear and accurate!
Sorry Turdsquirter... i got off on a 5:30am tanget. I'll take photos through out the entire install starting tomorrow with the finished trunk floor and spare wheel well. I'll then begin work on the rear fenders, rear deck (i'm not sure if i should layer the top (below the carpet) as well as from below Those decks take a lot of abuse and they resonate like mad if there isn't a port for the trunk or tons of sound dampening Without the port i'll blow those speakers in a matter of weeks.
Doors come last. I hear they're a b*tch due to the plastic sheet and the glue they use. I'll probably remove it all and put a layer of FatMat on the outer door panel and another to cover the entire inner door panel to block off all the holes.
depending on how much extra is left over from the 100sq ft, should i do foot wells in the front and backs of the front fenders that are accessable from the cabin or perhaps the rear seating area?
Thanks!
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#8
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Originally Posted by Turd Squirter
Please post some pics and/or write up a how to. I've been wanting to do something similair with my '05 RS.
BTW...the RS is also missing that rubberish sound deadening material underneath the car but I don't think there's much we can do about that.
BTW...the RS is also missing that rubberish sound deadening material underneath the car but I don't think there's much we can do about that.
If its the same stuff that i'm thinkin about, trust me.... you're not missing mutch.
On the other hand, my 2007 Evo IX w/SSL does have some sections of foam like padding such as under the rear seat, on the floor boards front and rear, and in the foot wells for the front driver and passenger. Personally, i dont think this stuff will do crap for sound deadening and especially resonance because its not attached to the panels itself to dampen vibration. Instead of adding this probably expensive crap from mitsu, go to www.fatmat.com and buy a 50sq ft roll or the big 100sq ft roll like i got. The latter super 100sq ft roll that cost only $99.00 and is just like Dynamat Xtreme. Almost identical rubber dampener with adhesive back, and a thin aluminum top sheet to keep it clean from any water which may come in the window if its cracked and also to repel heat. The same square feet from dynamat would cost over $500.00 i recall.
Please post some pics and/or write up a how to. I've been wanting to do something similair with my '05 RS.
BTW...the RS is also missing that rubberish sound deadening material underneath the car but I don't think there's much we can do about that.
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I believe the undercoating is sprayed on. IIRC it's designed more for protection from road debris than as a sound deadener. I wish I could tell you more about it or what it looks like, but my RS doesn't have any. LOL. I'm looking forward to some pics! If your installation turns out well I think I'm going to fatmat the trunk and try that expanding rubberized foam under the hood. My guess is at least 75% of the road noise comes from those two places.
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Originally Posted by Andrew LB
I'm not sure how heavy the high end Dynamat Extreme is, but the older grade which is brownish in color is VERY heavy.
I'm currently in the process of sound deadening my Evo's trunk, rear deck, doors, and fender wells. I used a product called Fat Mat. www.fatmat.com . The stuff is very thin adhesive backed rubber with a shiny aluminum layer on top. I tested it on a sheet of thin metal i had in my garage to see if it was as good as the non-Extreme Dynamat and using the same sized patch, the Fat Mat completely owned the Dynamat. Plus the Fat Mat is way thinner, lighter, and much less expensive. I ordered 100sq ft of Fat Mat from their site for $100 + shipping and i've already completely covered the floor and spare tire well of my trunk and it looks like i've barely made a dent in one of the two big rolls (50sq/ft each roll). I'm going to finish up the back fenders and rear deck tomorrow morning. And then move on to the doors. By the looks of things, i'm going to have a bunch left over. If thats the case, i'm going to do the foot wells in the front and under the back seat.
As for weight.... 100sq ft of Fat Mat only weighs in at 23 lbs.
http://www.fatmat.com/fatmat/bulk/100ft.htm
I'm currently in the process of sound deadening my Evo's trunk, rear deck, doors, and fender wells. I used a product called Fat Mat. www.fatmat.com . The stuff is very thin adhesive backed rubber with a shiny aluminum layer on top. I tested it on a sheet of thin metal i had in my garage to see if it was as good as the non-Extreme Dynamat and using the same sized patch, the Fat Mat completely owned the Dynamat. Plus the Fat Mat is way thinner, lighter, and much less expensive. I ordered 100sq ft of Fat Mat from their site for $100 + shipping and i've already completely covered the floor and spare tire well of my trunk and it looks like i've barely made a dent in one of the two big rolls (50sq/ft each roll). I'm going to finish up the back fenders and rear deck tomorrow morning. And then move on to the doors. By the looks of things, i'm going to have a bunch left over. If thats the case, i'm going to do the foot wells in the front and under the back seat.
As for weight.... 100sq ft of Fat Mat only weighs in at 23 lbs.
http://www.fatmat.com/fatmat/bulk/100ft.htm
#13
i used about 100 lbs of dynamat on my last car... yea it works great... but the car doesnt handle the same...
if you want to sound deaden ur car...go with the expandng foam. those work so well.. and weigh next to nothing...
go to home depot and you can get a bottle for 7-8 bucks.
great stuff... is one brand.. they also have some other ones....
when it hardens up... its hard as a rock..
if you want to sound deaden ur car...go with the expandng foam. those work so well.. and weigh next to nothing...
go to home depot and you can get a bottle for 7-8 bucks.
great stuff... is one brand.. they also have some other ones....
when it hardens up... its hard as a rock..
#14
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I use minimal expanding foam in those very tight areas and in inside the trunk lid where they have that metal skeleton. It works wonders. I then FatMat over the top.
Here you go for the FatMat photo. I just got the bottom of the trunk photo right now, i'll post up more pics later when i finish the fenders, doors, and rear deck. Its extremely easy to install if you use smaller cut pieces. In the photo where you see some wrinkles, thats because i got over zealous in trying to speed things up and the stuff wrinkled a little. I'm going to take a heat gun to it and a very strong roller to fix it when everything is done.
Here you go for the FatMat photo. I just got the bottom of the trunk photo right now, i'll post up more pics later when i finish the fenders, doors, and rear deck. Its extremely easy to install if you use smaller cut pieces. In the photo where you see some wrinkles, thats because i got over zealous in trying to speed things up and the stuff wrinkled a little. I'm going to take a heat gun to it and a very strong roller to fix it when everything is done.