Stuck Gas Pedal
#1
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Stuck Gas Pedal
I didn't find anyone else through searching that has this problem. Every time I get in the Evo after it's been sitting for several hours my gas pedal gets stuck. It won't let me press it down without some force and then sort of 'pops' and lets loose. After that first little sticking it's fine for the rest of the drive. It doesn't seem too serious, just annoying since I have to sit in the parking lot and basically floor it once to free the pedal. Anyone else have this problem?
#4
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Originally Posted by Nad1370
Carbon build-up around the throttle plate.
Just clean it out with T-body cleaner and scrub it down with a tooth brush.
.
Just clean it out with T-body cleaner and scrub it down with a tooth brush.
.
#5
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Originally Posted by Nad1370
Carbon build-up around the throttle plate.
Just clean it out with T-body cleaner and scrub it down with a tooth brush.
.
Just clean it out with T-body cleaner and scrub it down with a tooth brush.
.
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#9
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ok, Here I'll Try to Explain Pics later.
First you would need a 10mm socket and ratchet or screw driver, philips. Remove the Two clamps holding the Very top hose on the T-Body and end or the hard section of the upper IC pipe. Its a little tight in there, At least it is on the IX. So the Battery may have to come out to free up some space, but try with it in. Use Some penetrating oil, like WD40, and spray it inbetween the hose an the aluminum tube and T-body. See if you can sort of twist the hose left to right, to work it off. Eventualy you will get it off, the T-body is the Easy side, the Aluminum pipe is rather difficult. DON'T USE A SCREW DRIVER to remove the hose you will make a hole in it. After that you pretty much are able to see the trottle body and its guts, its a brass plate with two small holes in it. Just Take your Carbeurator cleaner, not Value Craft, and a old tooth brush or new if you wanna waste one and Spray in the T-bod and scrub, then Open the plate by holding the pulley or cable so the plate stays open and Scrub Some of the inside. Now you will never get it perfect, your tooth brush will always kinda look dirty so don't spray loads of cleaner in trying to clean the whole intake manifold. Focus on cleaning where the plate rests and so forth and so on. Also try to avoid Spraying Directly into the IAC holes, basicaly don't spray into holes directly. It won't hurt it much but its kinda sensitive. Then you just replace what you Removed from the car. When you start the car it may be hard to start and may idle funny, contrary to common belief reving the engine won't cure this, just let it idle off, if it needs helpt to maintain idle give it a little trottle to raise the RPMs. If you use very little carb cleaner it should just start right up. If you use WAY too much it will miss very badly or may not even start so BE STINGY with the carb cleaner. you should use Alot less than half the can.
First you would need a 10mm socket and ratchet or screw driver, philips. Remove the Two clamps holding the Very top hose on the T-Body and end or the hard section of the upper IC pipe. Its a little tight in there, At least it is on the IX. So the Battery may have to come out to free up some space, but try with it in. Use Some penetrating oil, like WD40, and spray it inbetween the hose an the aluminum tube and T-body. See if you can sort of twist the hose left to right, to work it off. Eventualy you will get it off, the T-body is the Easy side, the Aluminum pipe is rather difficult. DON'T USE A SCREW DRIVER to remove the hose you will make a hole in it. After that you pretty much are able to see the trottle body and its guts, its a brass plate with two small holes in it. Just Take your Carbeurator cleaner, not Value Craft, and a old tooth brush or new if you wanna waste one and Spray in the T-bod and scrub, then Open the plate by holding the pulley or cable so the plate stays open and Scrub Some of the inside. Now you will never get it perfect, your tooth brush will always kinda look dirty so don't spray loads of cleaner in trying to clean the whole intake manifold. Focus on cleaning where the plate rests and so forth and so on. Also try to avoid Spraying Directly into the IAC holes, basicaly don't spray into holes directly. It won't hurt it much but its kinda sensitive. Then you just replace what you Removed from the car. When you start the car it may be hard to start and may idle funny, contrary to common belief reving the engine won't cure this, just let it idle off, if it needs helpt to maintain idle give it a little trottle to raise the RPMs. If you use very little carb cleaner it should just start right up. If you use WAY too much it will miss very badly or may not even start so BE STINGY with the carb cleaner. you should use Alot less than half the can.
#10
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^^^ Good post!
I just did it and it seems to have helped. It was hard to get all of the gunk in there and I sprayed enough cleaner in there too. I used an electronic spray cleaner (like a MAF cleaner spray) and it works.
It took a few cranks to get the car going, but no problems after.
I just did it and it seems to have helped. It was hard to get all of the gunk in there and I sprayed enough cleaner in there too. I used an electronic spray cleaner (like a MAF cleaner spray) and it works.
It took a few cranks to get the car going, but no problems after.
#11
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just did this. excellent response now. just waiting to try to start it on a cold morning. that was my biggest problem.
as for the actual job, i never sprayed directly into the throttle body. i sprayed either on the tooth brush or the shop rag. i used the toothbrush to break up most of it and then used the job to polish it clean. worked out well. about 20 minutes total from start to finish. didn't have to take the battery out. just the strut bar.
as for the actual job, i never sprayed directly into the throttle body. i sprayed either on the tooth brush or the shop rag. i used the toothbrush to break up most of it and then used the job to polish it clean. worked out well. about 20 minutes total from start to finish. didn't have to take the battery out. just the strut bar.
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