hard engine break in
#16
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Originally Posted by texasnoiz
i thought a rough break in on evo's meant oil leaks...
i have 296 break in miles thus far...sub-3500 rpm shifting and varying speeds...
although i agree there are two schools of thought on breaking in a motor - some say a motor is tested hard before coming to us in the car...
my one cent.
i have 296 break in miles thus far...sub-3500 rpm shifting and varying speeds...
although i agree there are two schools of thought on breaking in a motor - some say a motor is tested hard before coming to us in the car...
my one cent.
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#17
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Are you consuming oil? Two schools of thought on break-in, but one thing's for sure...ALWAYS warm your oil up to ~160-180F+ before you rev past 3000 RPMs. That's like 8-10 minutes of driving if you don't have an oil temp gauge.
If you've been revving your engine high before doing this you've probably killed your motor.
If you've been revving your engine high before doing this you've probably killed your motor.
#18
Originally Posted by lbcevo
Are you consuming oil? Two schools of thought on break-in, but one thing's for sure...ALWAYS warm your oil up to ~160-180F+ before you rev past 3000 RPMs. That's like 8-10 minutes of driving if you don't have an oil temp gauge.
If you've been revving your engine high before doing this you've probably killed your motor.
If you've been revving your engine high before doing this you've probably killed your motor.
#20
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I gradually got up to redline as I reached 1,000 miles. I'm pretty sure these motors are pre-broken in (because they are race motors) but you have to break in the tranny. I hope you're not shifting hard.
#21
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Originally Posted by lbcevo
Are you consuming oil? Two schools of thought on break-in, but one thing's for sure...ALWAYS warm your oil up to ~160-180F+ before you rev past 3000 RPMs. That's like 8-10 minutes of driving if you don't have an oil temp gauge.
If you've been revving your engine high before doing this you've probably killed your motor.
If you've been revving your engine high before doing this you've probably killed your motor.
also, this is the main link i used to research about hard break ins :
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
#22
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I have broken in NA engines aggressively, but will not on a forced induction engine. At 18 psi stock, the compression under boost is really high and can easily blow-out rings or keep the rings from seating properly, which causes bad oil consumption. While I've seen engines broken-in both ways and seen engine failures in both methods, I'd rather play it safe and break the car in slowly.
#23
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Originally Posted by wacboyjulian
also, this is the main link i used to research about hard break ins :
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
#24
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Originally Posted by 9xfaster
I'm pretty sure these motors are pre-broken in (because they are race motors)
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They are not race engines. They are derived from race engine technology, as is just about every motor on the planet.
Anyways, I agree with everyone here saying the engine and drivetrain must all be broken in. Think about it, If you're driving hard for the first miles, you may be knocking loose lots of assembly fragments and debris. Do you really want this stuff floating in your oil at redline when everything is already highly stressed?
For a motor that's already so high-strung from the factory, I wouldn't have beat on it so hard, especially if it's in the manual already. (Have you read that thing yet??)... I would expect more oil consumption than normal, but we'll see. I wouldn't be surprised if you DO have problems, and again unsurprised if Mitsu denies your warranty claims.
Either way, keep a really close eye on your oil consumption and the more aggressively you drive, the more frequently you should change the oil.
#25
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Just a reminder, regardless of what he says on that site NEVER USE CONVENTIONAL OIL IN A OIL BEARING TURBOCHARGED ENGINE. Conventional cannot withstand the temps in the oil bearing and will damage your turbo. Not a "might" a "will."
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Originally Posted by sasquatch
Just a reminder, regardless of what he says on that site NEVER USE CONVENTIONAL OIL IN A OIL BEARING TURBOCHARGED ENGINE. Conventional cannot withstand the temps in the oil bearing and will damage your turbo. Not a "might" a "will."
#27
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Originally Posted by pashasevo
ok so guys i just got my brand new evo IX about a week ago. already put 750 miles on it. I have been driving it very VERY hard. already redlined on numerous occasions. newayz a lot of ppl r telling me that i have damaged my engine by breaking it in hard. i was wondering is anyone out there who took the "hard break in" approach like i did? and with what results? thanks
#28
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I'm surprised I haven't seen more break-in threads. With so few miles on my new GG IX MR, I'm wondering if it's worth it to break in the same way I've done all my cars:
swap to conventional (unless it already comes factory fill with it)
Break in hard (not redline, but higher rpms and varying rpms for 100 miles)
Drain conventional oil with more conventional oil until about 1-3K miles (depending on car)
At 1-3K miles switch to full synthetic.
I did the above method in my STi and had ZERO oil consumption and a very strong motor. I swapped conventional oil at 3K and went full synthetic from 3K until the time I traded it in.
Any thoughts on doing the same in the Evo?
swap to conventional (unless it already comes factory fill with it)
Break in hard (not redline, but higher rpms and varying rpms for 100 miles)
Drain conventional oil with more conventional oil until about 1-3K miles (depending on car)
At 1-3K miles switch to full synthetic.
I did the above method in my STi and had ZERO oil consumption and a very strong motor. I swapped conventional oil at 3K and went full synthetic from 3K until the time I traded it in.
Any thoughts on doing the same in the Evo?
#29
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Mine has about 223 miles now, and I have been taking it up to 4,000 rpms.
The manual says not to exceed 5,000 rpms, for the first 600 miles.
I hope I'm doing the right thing.
It's a great car.
The manual says not to exceed 5,000 rpms, for the first 600 miles.
I hope I'm doing the right thing.
It's a great car.
#30
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You just paid $30,000+ for a car. I think mitsubishi would make a huge deal out of the break-in, if it was that bad, man. The engine was designed to do what it does. These engines aren't from 1960. There's a computer that controls boost, etc. The computer would pull timing, boost, etc if something went wrong. All of that break-in BS comes from older people who dealt with old school engines without synthetic oil, etc.