Dr. SS

iTrader: (10)

glad u said one cent, cuz i think we know where the other cent came from.

lbcevo

iTrader: (12)

Are you consuming oil? Two schools of thought on break-in, but one thing's for sure...ALWAYS warm your oil up to ~160-180F+ before you rev past 3000 RPMs. That's like 8-10 minutes of driving if you don't have an oil temp gauge.

If you've been revving your engine high before doing this you've probably killed your motor.

biga27110

he has always warmed up the car to operating temp before going WOT

biga27110

dont be a homayounieh

9xfaster

iTrader: (1)

I gradually got up to redline as I reached 1,000 miles. I'm pretty sure these motors are pre-broken in (because they are race motors) but you have to break in the tranny. I hope you're not shifting hard.

wacboyjulian

i went to a mitsu dealership a month ago and the salesman asked if wanted to hear the engine and i say sure without thinking and he hops in turns it on and immediately revs it harder and harder. i wanted to kick myself for not realizing he would rev it the engine completely cold.

also, this is the main link i used to research about hard break ins :

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Steven

iTrader: (19)

I have broken in NA engines aggressively, but will not on a forced induction engine. At 18 psi stock, the compression under boost is really high and can easily blow-out rings or keep the rings from seating properly, which causes bad oil consumption. While I've seen engines broken-in both ways and seen engine failures in both methods, I'd rather play it safe and break the car in slowly.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

That's the link typically used for hard break-in references. I have it bookmaked somewhere, too. Please keep in mind that regardless of the methodology used to break-in the engine, there are a lot of other mechanical parts that need to be broken in. That's partcialularly relevant to Evos and their AWD systems.

Wheelhaus

iTrader: (2)

where did you hear this?

They are not race engines. They are derived from race engine technology, as is just about every motor on the planet.


Anyways, I agree with everyone here saying the engine and drivetrain must all be broken in. Think about it, If you're driving hard for the first miles, you may be knocking loose lots of assembly fragments and debris. Do you really want this stuff floating in your oil at redline when everything is already highly stressed?

For a motor that's already so high-strung from the factory, I wouldn't have beat on it so hard, especially if it's in the manual already. (Have you read that thing yet??)... I would expect more oil consumption than normal, but we'll see. I wouldn't be surprised if you DO have problems, and again unsurprised if Mitsu denies your warranty claims.

Either way, keep a really close eye on your oil consumption and the more aggressively you drive, the more frequently you should change the oil.

sasquatch

Just a reminder, regardless of what he says on that site NEVER USE CONVENTIONAL OIL IN A OIL BEARING TURBOCHARGED ENGINE. Conventional cannot withstand the temps in the oil bearing and will damage your turbo. Not a "might" a "will."

91TB78

iTrader: (2)

This is not accurate. Conventional oil won't last as many miles when compared to synthetic and you're right, synthetic coesn't break down as easily as conventional dino oil under heat, but conventional should work fine in the Evo during break-in.

DoctorMofo

iTrader: (1)

Hey man don't worry about it. I have seen more engines run like **** on the "supposedly" way to break it in because of the rings not seating right and then oil leaks past rings. Check out this website http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Read all of the information it is really good info. A buddy of mine Builds motors and races and every single one of his engines have been broken in this way and he has nothing but success. PM me if you got any questions.

91TB78

iTrader: (2)

I'm surprised I haven't seen more break-in threads. With so few miles on my new GG IX MR, I'm wondering if it's worth it to break in the same way I've done all my cars:

swap to conventional (unless it already comes factory fill with it)
Break in hard (not redline, but higher rpms and varying rpms for 100 miles)
Drain conventional oil with more conventional oil until about 1-3K miles (depending on car)
At 1-3K miles switch to full synthetic.

I did the above method in my STi and had ZERO oil consumption and a very strong motor. I swapped conventional oil at 3K and went full synthetic from 3K until the time I traded it in.

Any thoughts on doing the same in the Evo?

greekven

Mine has about 223 miles now, and I have been taking it up to 4,000 rpms.

The manual says not to exceed 5,000 rpms, for the first 600 miles.

I hope I'm doing the right thing.


It's a great car.

Varrius

iTrader: (1)

You just paid $30,000+ for a car. I think mitsubishi would make a huge deal out of the break-in, if it was that bad, man. The engine was designed to do what it does. These engines aren't from 1960. There's a computer that controls boost, etc. The computer would pull timing, boost, etc if something went wrong. All of that break-in BS comes from older people who dealt with old school engines without synthetic oil, etc.