apagan01

iTrader: (299)

alright just became an evo owner,, newbie,, question for you guys what is the break in time frame, mitsubishi is giving me some crazy instructions like 10,000 miles break in this technician must be smoking crack,,, anyway, please you guys give me some info on break in time and spooling down youre turbo and any other detail i might need.

MRedition

alrght...break in is 600 miles. The best way to break it in would be to push it hard, but not too hard...I would say about 4-5 shifts. That way you get into boost, but not too much.

Do your first oil change at 500...or thats what I did atleast, then again at 1000, then at 3000 and from there every 3-5K

For warm up in the morning or whenever you are about to drive...let it sit for 15-20 seconds or wait for teh needle to move and then drive it under 3K shifts...when it gets to normal operating temps. go and do whatever.

Jakeg97

iTrader: (56)

congrats and welcome


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=58451

mrflash03

Your technician is actually on Heroin, not crack, because if he was on crack, he would have told you a 8,000 mile break in. Once you hit 1,000 miles, change your oil. I didn't go above 5k rpm's for the first 1,000 miles. Started modding the car heavily, and dyno tuned it at about 1200 miles on the odometer. I have about 9k on the odometer now, and it's running strong. I'm not sure what you mean about spooling down the turbo??? I would invest in a Turbo timer to help cool down the turbo after you drive. I set mine at 1:30 seconds before the engine shuts itself off.

amstel78

When you change engine oil after break-in, do you suggest changing differential and transmission oil as well?

When I finished breaking-in my M3, I took it in for its 1200 mile service. They replaced all drive-line fluids.

mrflash03

Changing your differential and transmission fluids would be good, but there is no need at such an early mileage on the odometer. I think it does need to be changed at the 10k maintenance. I'm not really sure, I got to check the owners manual for that..............

EM1toEVO

iTrader: (7)

^What they said^

Danny23

iTrader: (7)

Just take it easy for 6-700 miles. Change the oil at 1k miles and 3k after that. You can change the tranny,t/c and diffs at 5k and 7500 to 10k after that. Use BG2 in the trans. and stock diaqueen in the t/c and diffs. Thats the way i did it with both my evo,s and never had a problem.No oil burning or out of the ordinary sounds. Everyone has there own way of doing things no matter what the manual says.Thats the way i did it and like i said no problems. If you ask 10 people how to do things chances are you will get ten different answers. Good luck and congrats on your new ride.BTW dont try and seat the brake pads or season the rotors.They will brake in all by themselves under normal driving. If you go with different rotors and pads down the line its a different story.

ries

iTrader: (36)

there's some really good threads about break in procedure but Im just too lazy right now to find them for you Hit the search button and type in "break in procedure" and Im sure a bunch of thread will pop up...



but I changed my oil and filter at 500 miles...some say be easy on it, some say drive it like you stole it. I broke it in kinda between the two. Not too hard, not too soft, but just right

SIKEVO9

iTrader: (6)

Breaking in your IX. Proper way to break in 0 lbs of boost and keep it under 4k rpm for 1000miles.

92gsxbaltimore

iTrader: (1)

You dont want to baby the crap out of it, but also dont want to red line it while at full throttle and full boost either. If you dont take it up to close to red-line durring the break in at least a couple times then you un the risk of shelving the cylinder bores. The slower you rev your engine, the less the rods stretch, and therefore do not let the pistons to travel as high. This being said you do not want to rev that high under high load, so give it no more than I would say 1/2 throttle untill you get to ~6k in 2nd gear. Do this about 10 times durring your initial break-in and you will at least get the pistons to move up the bores enought to break the hashing. Also, you do want to load the engine occasionally to seat the rings properly. All this being said, at no point in the first 1k miles would I give more than about 70-75% throttle.

Let me say that what I have said is purely based on my own expiriences based on a 4g63t engine rebuild, a 327 chevy rebuild, and a late model 2.2 honda rebuild. Compression after the break-in periods met or exceeded the standard compression specs. Also, I like to run high quality convetional oil for the first 500 miles, then switch to full synthetic, run that for 1k miles(odo 1,5k), then change out again at 3k, 6k, 9k, etc.

space

anyone read the link in this thread where the guy says to run the car hard? is this safe for the car???

cdupont03

iTrader: (31)

Look I agree with some of the post and disagree with some. Be good to it the first 500-600 miles. Try to stay below 5K RPM and take it easy with the clutch. After this go ahead and change the oil and filter. Then step it up a little dint beat the **** out of it but you can kinda get into a little more of the higher RPMs and boost. Just work your way up, and dont bother change your diff and tranny fluids for atleast the first 1000 thats my opion, just me.