"Evo clutches aren't weak, people just can't drive." Teach me to drive.
Nov 15, 2007, 04:17 PM
#16
Not sure if you were directing the comment to me..
I certainly wouldn't expect my clutch to hold up very long at 500-600whp, but its held up at 400whp for quite a long time. With almost 50k miles I'd expect any abuse would probably do it in for good.
But I would say stock to 350whp or so, the clutch should last way longer than some of the reported 'weak clutch' threads claimed.
I certainly wouldn't expect my clutch to hold up very long at 500-600whp, but its held up at 400whp for quite a long time. With almost 50k miles I'd expect any abuse would probably do it in for good.
But I would say stock to 350whp or so, the clutch should last way longer than some of the reported 'weak clutch' threads claimed.
Nov 15, 2007, 08:17 PM
#18
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BTW, with the transfer case being the second weak link, is there a stronger replacement for it? Quaife seems to make their unbreakable torsen diff for the evos, but just for the front.
Nov 15, 2007, 08:23 PM
#19
The bike's amazing; only one tiny plastic piece in the cooling system is giving me problems, they've replaced it twice in 17,000 miles. It makes me very happy... Until it's raining or I need to carry passengers or cargo. Then I wish I had something with 4 wheels and a roof, and similar rain performance to the bike's dry performance. Evo seems to be as close as one can affordably come.
BTW, with the transfer case being the second weak link, is there a stronger replacement for it? Quaife seems to make their unbreakable torsen diff for the evos, but just for the front.
BTW, with the transfer case being the second weak link, is there a stronger replacement for it? Quaife seems to make their unbreakable torsen diff for the evos, but just for the front.
Nov 15, 2007, 08:32 PM
#20
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That's cool. So why don't people just install a Shep TC & tranny, an ACT clutch, then power mods, and zoom merrily down the road with a bluebird on their shoulder, never worrying about a thing but sufficient tuning to avoid detonation?
Nov 15, 2007, 08:39 PM
#21
Most people just wait till it breaks. Also, road racing and auto X doesnt seem to mess up any evo drivetrain (well MR 6sp tend to not like road racing). You only goes though Tc's clutches and trannies is you wanna drag race a lot. Even then the stock TC and tranny and in some cases, even the stock clutch can go 12s and 11s and be fine.
Nov 15, 2007, 08:43 PM
#23
I live by two things.. "work smart, not hard" and "Do things right the first time"
Nov 15, 2007, 08:50 PM
#24
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Because people don't initially realize that making power is cheap, but the parts to make the power reliable, don't in itself add power, and its the lowest priority until they start breaking parts. Reliable drivelines, proper modifications, good suspension and brake setups, aren't always "bling" nor do they always have immediate performance gains that guys can show off to their friends.
I live by two things.. "work smart, not hard" and "Do things right the first time"
I live by two things.. "work smart, not hard" and "Do things right the first time"
Nov 15, 2007, 09:04 PM
#25
Honestly, Its hard since a vast majority of the cars are abused and neglected, or modified half-assed and returned to stock even more half-assed.
Do your research, if you look for a car on the forums, look for all of the posts by the person, odds are you can do a bit of recon to get some insight on the history of the car.
A car with 50,000 miles, and still has a stock clutch, regardless of how modified, probably wasnt abused or driven hard.
NEVER buy an evo from a kid... I could go into dozens of reasons for this, but I'm sure the obvious stand out.
Don't buy a used evo from a dealership, ESPECIALLY a non-mitsubishi or used car lot.. All wasted evo's are dumped from their owners by trading them in. Your best bet is to buy a car that you know its history, either by knowing the owner or enough about the car to be fairly comfortable what your getting into.
Do your research, if you look for a car on the forums, look for all of the posts by the person, odds are you can do a bit of recon to get some insight on the history of the car.
A car with 50,000 miles, and still has a stock clutch, regardless of how modified, probably wasnt abused or driven hard.
NEVER buy an evo from a kid... I could go into dozens of reasons for this, but I'm sure the obvious stand out.
Don't buy a used evo from a dealership, ESPECIALLY a non-mitsubishi or used car lot.. All wasted evo's are dumped from their owners by trading them in. Your best bet is to buy a car that you know its history, either by knowing the owner or enough about the car to be fairly comfortable what your getting into.
Nov 16, 2007, 12:29 PM
#29
I haven't piloted anything but a sportbike, with its sequential dogged shifting, for quite a while. But back when I drove a 3rd gen rx7, I don't remember taking any special care of the gearbox. I'd slip the clutch, drop the clutch, shift pretty quickly--I'd make an attempt to match rpms, but it was seldom perfect.
How do you drive in a high-performance, but careful way? If I buy an evo, how do I avoid ending up on the list of people who just can't drive, and have to buy a new transmission?
How do you drive in a high-performance, but careful way? If I buy an evo, how do I avoid ending up on the list of people who just can't drive, and have to buy a new transmission?
You wildin'!
Nov 16, 2007, 01:44 PM
#30
let me share some info here about the not "weak" factory clutch system.
Everybody knows the Mitshu designed the clutch to be a weak point in the drive train. That is clear, right? So just this statment alone said ,its is designed to be that way ,to prevent further more costly damage. So its weak. Numerous reason. one of these:
Compere to other car models the Flywheel around 12-15 kg. the evo flywheel is 6kg.
explain: http://clutchwizard.com/evo.htm
quote:
" Clutch:
How many miles can an average driver expect from an Evo clutch? Are Evo drivers ever average? Their cars certainly are not!
This 4-wheel rocket has enough power to slip the clutch even when it is fully engaged. Full acceleration above 3500 rpm hits the clutch with enough torque to burn friction material right off the disc! Tires are not all that's smokin'.
We have seen Evos in our shops for clutches at 5000 miles. 20,000 seems closer to an average. I know one Evo owner who is at 40,000 on the original clutch.
Performance costs, and this car delivers a load of performance! Aftermarket upgrades are the way to go.
Get professional advice when choosing a clutch. Your driving habits will dictate what works best for you. Ask a pro.
The weak point in the Evo clutch system is the flywheel. It is small. There is not enough surface area to dissipate heat. Surface temperatures rise and the metal crystallizes. Hotspots and cracks appear. The clutch disc is literally cooked until it starts to come apart. Aluminum flywheels dissipate heat better (and rev faster!) than OEM steel. Clutch friction material choices include semi-metallic, Kevlar, and ceramic.
Deciding upon a performance clutch for your vehicle is a big project. If your vehicle is nearly stock and you drive very reasonably, you may be better off with a stock clutch. If you have added accessories that increase torque output by more than 15%, or if you are prone to extreme engagement (side-stepping the clutch under acceleration) then you need to find the appropriate 'super' clutch for your situation."
Everybody knows the Mitshu designed the clutch to be a weak point in the drive train. That is clear, right? So just this statment alone said ,its is designed to be that way ,to prevent further more costly damage. So its weak. Numerous reason. one of these:
Compere to other car models the Flywheel around 12-15 kg. the evo flywheel is 6kg.
explain: http://clutchwizard.com/evo.htm
quote:
" Clutch:
How many miles can an average driver expect from an Evo clutch? Are Evo drivers ever average? Their cars certainly are not!
This 4-wheel rocket has enough power to slip the clutch even when it is fully engaged. Full acceleration above 3500 rpm hits the clutch with enough torque to burn friction material right off the disc! Tires are not all that's smokin'.
We have seen Evos in our shops for clutches at 5000 miles. 20,000 seems closer to an average. I know one Evo owner who is at 40,000 on the original clutch.
Performance costs, and this car delivers a load of performance! Aftermarket upgrades are the way to go.
Get professional advice when choosing a clutch. Your driving habits will dictate what works best for you. Ask a pro.
The weak point in the Evo clutch system is the flywheel. It is small. There is not enough surface area to dissipate heat. Surface temperatures rise and the metal crystallizes. Hotspots and cracks appear. The clutch disc is literally cooked until it starts to come apart. Aluminum flywheels dissipate heat better (and rev faster!) than OEM steel. Clutch friction material choices include semi-metallic, Kevlar, and ceramic.
Deciding upon a performance clutch for your vehicle is a big project. If your vehicle is nearly stock and you drive very reasonably, you may be better off with a stock clutch. If you have added accessories that increase torque output by more than 15%, or if you are prone to extreme engagement (side-stepping the clutch under acceleration) then you need to find the appropriate 'super' clutch for your situation."