steering wheel shake
Apr 20, 2008, 07:06 AM
#17
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Like others have stated in this thread, there really isn't such a thing as "warped rotors". 99.9% of the time, vibration is caused by brake pad deposits. This is most likely the cause of your problem, and a pad re-bed would most likely be the solution. If that doesn't work (it should), you might have an alignment issue. Take your car to a place that does race-alignments as they will be much more knowledgeable than your local tire shop. Most Evos come mis-aligned from the factory, so it's always a good idea to get it checked out. One of the most rewarding "cheap" mods too 
Edit: You should also check that your lug nuts are torqued properly.
Edit: You should also check that your lug nuts are torqued properly.
Last edited by ECS Performance; Apr 20, 2008 at 07:08 AM.
Apr 20, 2008, 07:44 PM
#18
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I drove a car once that shook while under breaking and it was warped rotors after about 3500mi and NO track time. It only shook if going 60mph or above and brake pedal never felt any differently. So I would still check rotors first...especially since your car has had track time already!
Apr 20, 2008, 10:43 PM
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Rotors Don't Warp It's A Hoax.
read it again guys it's a fact.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=81487
read it again guys it's a fact.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=81487
Apr 21, 2008, 07:02 AM
#20
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i have had this problem now.. twice...
first time at 3-4 K miles... the dealer gave me new fronts.
Problem comes up again at 16K miles... dealer told me they cant do chit...
so i read up on re bedding.... and brake the chit out of the car... i mean 90 to near 20 mph slow downs in sucessions and guess what ... vibration is Gone
Re- bed your pads ... its just brake residue from the pads stuck on the rotors
first time at 3-4 K miles... the dealer gave me new fronts.
Problem comes up again at 16K miles... dealer told me they cant do chit...
so i read up on re bedding.... and brake the chit out of the car... i mean 90 to near 20 mph slow downs in sucessions and guess what ... vibration is Gone
Re- bed your pads ... its just brake residue from the pads stuck on the rotors
I wonder who stared the warped rotors myth, dealerships?
Apr 21, 2008, 05:39 PM
#21
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To settle the issue, I did rebed, and it didn't help, I did have the rotors turned, and that DID solve the shaking. I put new pads on and hopefully this will prevent any shaking in the future.
Apr 21, 2008, 08:34 PM
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so?
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
etc etc etc
Last edited by cfdfireman1; Apr 21, 2008 at 08:37 PM.
Apr 22, 2008, 06:59 AM
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I was running the stock pads on the track, and I am very hard on them. The shaking was there with two different sets of tires and rims. There was no play in the front end when I had it on jack stands, and the car has 3500miles on it. If it was an allignment, the shake would not have gone away when the rotors were resurfaced. I had the rotors messured, and they were well within the thickness range, actually very close to no wear. I tried using garnet paper to get the pad buildup of, but that only helped a little. I did not take them to midas, I took it to a local professional, who actually cared, and after disscusing everything felt it was acceptable to turn the rotors, with just the bare minimal taken off. If you go to the ebc website it says to have the rotors resurfaced. I will be back at the track on april 29, and will post any problems.
Apr 22, 2008, 10:40 AM
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Havn't bedded the new pads, but the old ones I rebedded with 5 stops from 60 to 10 and then 4 from 100 to 20, without ever coming to a stop, and then driving for 10+ min with little use of brakes in order to let cool.
Apr 22, 2008, 05:44 PM
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That should have done it. Did you use heavy braking for the 100 down to 20s? The idea is to get them good and hot then let them cool.
ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
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