I do hope you understand that what I write is meant to be informative and keep you aware.

You CANNOT tell the condition of an engine or if oil is good or bad by looking at oil, smelling it, feeling it or even tasting it. This can Only be done with oil analysis. The TBN can drop low enough to where it cannot neutralize the acidity and begin to cause engine damage that cannot be seen but is there.

I had a customer last year that thought they were so easy on their vehicle that they could go a year on an oil change. When I found this out, I immediately put Engine Flush in before changing the oil. Without doing that, the oil would have drained normally and just looked dirty. The result of the flush was evident when the globs of sludge were dropping out on to my pan and even clogging the drain hole in the engine pan.

I am not on my computer right now but I took pics of my drain pan..

Oil is cheap.. Even a Premium Synthetic is cheap compared to an engine..

I run AMSOIL in my Motorcycle and do analysis on the oil at each change. I consider the extra cost of the oil and analysis cheap insurance compared to $8000.00 for an engine.

LG

 

so would you suggest flushing first before putting in new oil?

 

Pull your oil fill cap and look on the underside. If you see any signs of a sludge buildup, I would use an engine flush.

Do not use ATF, diesel fuel or any of the backyard tricks that are useless and possibly harmful to your engine. Use an engine flush and do not drive the car as this will put a load on the bearings. Slightly elevated idle for about 20 minutes..

Drain and fill as normal.

LG

 

I was wondering for those of you who take it to the dealerships, how much does an oil change cost you?

 

5k miles like the damn manual says and you'll be fine.

 

do it yourself. you can do it at home for 1/2 or maybe even 1/3 what they will charge you.

 

Not always the damn case.... Sorry, couldn't resist.

5000 is the Longest recommended interval. It depends on driving habits and the vehicle itself.

If you drive short distances, the car driven frequently without being warmed and you are on and off the throttle frequently such as in city driving or track use, 3000 miles may be too much.

Oil analysis has shown that on a stock X Daily Driver, using Mobil 1 XP, that the oil had enough fuel dilution and had sheared enough and had sufficient wear metals to warrant an oil change at less than 2000.

Following oil change was with AMSOIL SSO and although there was still fuel dilution which did cause some shear of the oil, the lab OK'd the oil for continued use as the wear metals were so low. Current change on the vehicle is AMSOIL RD-20.. coming up for analysis.

LG

 

Nice graveyard bump


+1 on what LG said, though the pre-X Evos do not have the same dilution problems AFAIK and the OP asked about his IX.

In my IX, I have been doing the oil after every track event, since it mostly sits between events. Works out to about every 600 miles given the 400 mile round trip to the track, but the severe conditions make me think that $50 for an oil change every 2 months is cheap insurance, especially considering it is a turbo car.

If you really want to save money you can do the filter less often, but for the $5 or whatever it is I figure it is even cheaper insurance.

 

CaliMR... Thanks.

I don't know what oil you are using but I would strongly suggest doing some Oil Analysis.. Just Cheap Dang Insurance. I have a feeling you will find that even under harsh conditions you are changing too often.

Yes, the X runs Pig Rich but the rest of my scenario stands for any vehicle especially Turbo'd. Anytime you are on and off the throttle, you are dumping fuel in that will get past the rings.

On the other end, when you are on the throttle, your combustion gases and water vapor get past the rings and form acids which is why there is always a time limit on oil other than just mileage.

LG

 

118k on my 03 changed every 3k mi M1 10W30. Most of the time its been the 10W 30XP gold cap.

Never had an oil analysis done I'm curious hmmmmm. LG who do you use Blackstone?

 

Blackstone is too variable on there tests.. I use Polaris Labs who uses State of The Art Equipment and has 3 Labs across the US and I think 2 in Canada.

Cost is about the same or less as Blackstone and more accurate results.

LG

 

Ok great info thanks a lot man

 

wrt to the engine flush, whats the general take on using this and having the oil cooler present and not being able to drain possible flush being left behind since the cooler can only be drained when removed?

thanks for the feedback.

 

There is such a small amount of flush left when you consider there is less than a qt of oil in the oil cooler and you are at 20% dilution in the entire system.

If you are concerned, just call your next oil change a little early.

LG

 

Thanks for the feedback, I came to the same conclusion as you did but wanted to see if anyone felt the same way.