Giwrgos_77

What do you believe for this turbo?

http://turbochargers.com/store/produ...1e908540eee3d1

Does anyone know the spool time for this turbo compared to std turbo of an EVO IX?

BLKCarbonEVO

iTrader: (2)

Don't buy that! Why would you want a pos turbo only rated at 450 when you can have a reputable turbo like a FP for cheaper. The TME is 1,200 and if you send your IX turbo to FP they only charge 1,000 for a HTA Green or Red. Both with great spool! The Green can get you 475-500 and the Red can get you 500-550. They are great upgrades if you ask me. Personally I would go with a Red. Here is a link to my dyno graph. Please don't waste your money with a TME. Save yourself the money and get a FP Turbo. WAY BETTER THAN A TME!

My FP Red on 30psi. (the graph says 31psi but the 5bar on the dyno was drifting off a pound or two)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...red-535hp.html

HTA Green on 31.5psi
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...torsports.html

Mikey

evo unknown

iTrader: (25)

There is absolutely no point to try a no name, cheap turbo, when there are numerous other stock frame turbos rated for more power with greater reliability and performance.

^^+1 for the citations for back up.

Do more research please, before buying a turbo! Also, what are your current modifications?

Giwrgos_77

First my apologise because i have not made my self clear...my target is 400-450 crank ps....and the ultimate spool up and lag reduction....i want the car for road use mainly and some day track...i will use the std exhaust and std inlet except from a free drop filter.....i am thinking 2 turbos the first is the titanium-magnesium turbo and the other is the 20g turbo, the mag turbo is 100% genuine and i can work it until 24 psi...the other is not genuine you say...can you explain? Also i am planing to convert my turbo to ball bearing for ultimate spool.

BLKCarbonEVO

iTrader: (2)

Okay, you are getting way ahead of yourself and need to do a lot more research before you even think about modding your evo or destroying a wonderful car; like a lot of people do because they don't know what the **** they are doing.

1) If you are only looking for 400-450 Crank then keep the ****ing stock turbo! I put down 430whp (wheel HP, about 490 crank) on stock IX turbo on 30psi with basic mods and would have no problem hitting 450whp if I went back to the dyno.
2) You can make 450 Crank on pump gas with stock turbo. You lose about 17% power to the wheels so 450 crank is around 380ish wheel if I remember right.
3) You will always want more hp. Everyone starts out wanting 350, then 400, then 450, and before you know it you are 500+. Buy a turbo now that can suport that, still keep stock like spool, and be safe on the stock motor. Your three choices are BBK Full (475whp), FP Green (500whp), and FP Red (550whp).
4) On a 20g, which you should never get, you can do more than 24psi on pump and if you get meth, e85, or race fuel you can run 32psi on the stock motor. Every 20g is old technology and the BIGGEST POS on the face of the earth compared to the newer stock appearing turbos on the market!
5) Not genuine means a POS! Any stock appearing turbo other than a CBRD or FP turbo is a POS and I think everyone on this forum that has been around the block or two will agree with me 100%
6) It is a complete waste of time to invest in making the stock center section Dual Ball Bearing (DBB). It has already been done and tested. You should call Robert up at FP and ask him. He is the stock appearing turbo master. You won't gain any spoolup, you won't even gain 1 hp!!! However, you will improve the longevity of your turbo and the ability to run higher boost daily. However, this won't help you on a stock turbo or a 20g since the DBB upgrade would allow you to run more than 32psi daily but those small *** turbos stops making power between 30-32psi. POINTLESS! It would be an ok upgrade if you have the time and money to blow to upgrade a FP Red or Black with DBB that way you can run 40psi all day long.

Sorry for the book but I hate seeing new evo owners going down the wrong path! If you have any questions let me know.

Mikey

Giwrgos_77

Ok thanks, so ywhat is your advise so i can have faster spool than stock-reliability and 400+crank ps? Also can you tell me how much abuse the std engine can take? Thank you for your time.

BLKCarbonEVO

iTrader: (2)

You won't find ANYTHING that spools faster than a stock turbo. Sorry, but you can stop looking. The stock turbo will have no problem getting you to 450 crank... If that is what you want then why are you still talking about upgrading? Maybe I'm missing something...

The stock motor will hold anything you throw at if. We have a lot of 550-600whp (700 Crank) EVOs running the stock motor and holding up just fine. As long as you take care of it and keep your tq below 425 you will be fine. The smaller turbos tend to blow the motors faster than larger turbos, for three reasons.

1) Small turbos spool fast creating a large load over a short period of time
2) Small turbos spool in lower rpms which is not as safe on stock motor as a turbo that spools above 3.5k
3) Small turbos create more tq than larger turbos which is the main reason for snapping rods
4) Small turbos have a higher EGT that can create knock easier which can blow your motor.

You should be fine on the stock turbo but if you upgrade get a real turbo. That is what I suggest!

Mikey

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

I had this turbo. I was not impressed with it. If you want more power than an EVO IX turbo, the FP Green or the BBK are the answer.

yahu

iTrader: (55)

LOL @ cranky Mikey working all night. Extremely good points though.

Giwrgos_77

Ok i heard it loud and clear. A member from this forum told me that he has the BBK FULL and spools the same or a bit faster than the std turbo so i believe it is a good choice...because it is the best of both worlds...what do you think and where i can find the best price for his turbo?

BLKCarbonEVO

iTrader: (2)

Thanks dan... Being at work for 24hours is driving me to insanity! NO JOKE!

A BBK Full will not spool faster than a stock turbo, none that I have ever seen! . It is about 200prm slower spool. A BBK Lite will spool identical to stock and give you 30-40 more hp out the top but I would just get the Full. You don't really notice the 200rpm difference.

You order them through CBRD. Go to the website and give Chad a call.

Mikey

awdboosted

iTrader: (30)

I Fully agree..

Turbochagers.com sells a lot of Chinese crap.. Stay away from that and Ebay turbos. I would recommend a FP Green.

romogst

iTrader: (14)

+1 go buy your turbo from one of the reputable vendors on this forum, cbrd,buschur,ams, FP, etc..

BoostINurI

iTrader: (4)

Go hta green from FP man you won't be disappointed.

buchnerj

iTrader: (19)

Another turbo to consider if you are a true auto-x or rally racer would be the FP White.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...e=Lancer-Turbo

The White gives you the benefit of being smaller (torque heavy) and crazy fast spool. It is also from a REPUTABLE company, forced performance who warranties their turbos (unlike many) and make a quality product.

It is a smaller turbo, but if put in with the right supporting mods it can be a torque monster. That is what you really want for a true track car. Tons of torque. The BBK and the HTA Green will be good, and if you have a stroker kit, they would be the way to go, but if not then you need to think about upgrading your torque on the stock motor. A smaller turbo like the White would do this, and allow you to pull out of turns and accelerate much faster, but you lose the top end. On a road or auto-x course that is not a problem because usually you don't have enough room to really ride out a turbo in the top end, unless it is mainly a straight-away course. Remember though, horsepower isn't what kills motors, it is torque. Keep your bottom end in mind when trying to do torque heavy upgrades, otherwise you will be shopping for a new motor.

Do your homework. Alot of this information can be found using the search button.

EDIT: I wrote this thinking you wanted a good track car, with good spool. It will be a okay road car too, but the White should be considered only when really building a car you will take frequently to the track.